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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to attempt this. I bought both parts already ($300 without a swap, napa said I could bring my old mc and booster back for a refund????!!!!:party018:) and although it wont be a direct swap, it shouldn't be hard. I had to use both the 96 booster and master cylinder because the old MC won't bolt right up. The new boosters rod is the correct length.:stirpot:

1) It looks like the 96 booster will allow the vacuum hose to connect up with an adapter. Adapter Needed.

2) The bolt pattern is different so, I will need to drill holes and install another backing plate to accomodate the booster. Booster must clear the steering rod, throttle cable and engine in order to fit.

It should rain in a couple days, so I will attempt when I am off work.

THOUGHTS OR COMMENTS? ANYONE?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
10-4
The master cylinder has a 10% larger bore. I am waiting for a hose adapter for booster
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wow what a difference! took me 4 hours and I had to run and get more parts. Make sure you get the nuts to bolt up the booster to the truck and the MC to the booster. They are a different size. I am real glad I did thi s!!! If you want pictures than I could post them. Not many people seem to be interested in this post though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I can lock all four up immediately. The bore in the MC is larger requiring 10% less pedal movement and 100% easier to brake. I am really happy with this mod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It costs about $350 Total.
 

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what all parts did you need for the job i looked at autozone and it was like under 200 for the mc and booster. also will the 96 vaccum pump bolt up to the first gen?, mine is bad and i would like better brakes just wondering????:confused013:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
1 - You will need to drill 2 holes in the firewall.

The old vacuum line can be used. You will lose your vent vacuum lines control. Your defoster should be set to 'defrost window' before you kill the truck because you won't be able to change to vents and back from here on out. The chech valve on the new booster doesn't accomodate all the jazz our trucks have. An adapter can be made later to make all work again.

Get the nuts to fit all the bolts on the booster, should be 6 total, and I added one in the old booster holes for extra strength. You will see what I mean.

All the old brake lines will work.

You will need to drill out the hole on the booster pedal arm. The hole is a little too small to attach to the pedal. I used a 1/2 inch which worked. Other than that, enjoy!!!


Took me three hours, but I was doing it in the rain and I knew exactly what to do. Skill level, Easy.
 

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on this same subject, has anyone converted there 1st gen to hydraulicly assisted master cylider like on a 99 24 valve?? i want to get rid of the big ol brake booster and vacuum pumps all together
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That would be sweat! What do you know about it already?
 

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i definately like the idea of the latter style mc. ive always found the brakes to be ok power wise, but i despise the snap top cast iron mc. mine always want to leak.
 

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I'd like to see some pictrure. My MC is going out and this looks like an option. What did you mean about not being able to use the vent again? Here in Nebraska heat is kind of importent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The deal with the vent is this. Vacuum is required to change between the defrost and the floor/vent options. With this newer Brake booster you will temporarily loose the option to change between the defrost and the floor/vent because there is no spot on the new booster check valve to accomodate the line for the defrost/vent/floor deal. However, you could splice into the vacuum line with a T connector and reaccomodate this option.

As with the leaky MC lid, this new MC does not leak!!!!! That is actually the main reason why I decided to swap because I was sick of seeing brake fluid leak all over the starter, engine, and whatever else. The new lid seals it nice and tight with 3 seals. It doesn't leak and my brakes are still Awesome. This setup is almost a direct bolt on but you will need to drill holes in the firewall and on the brake pedal rod from the booster.
 

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92 d350 xcab flatbed 5spd. 04 2500 QCSB 4x4 built auto. All over 500k mi
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Will the check valve from the old booster fit into the new booster? Then you'd have heat/AC controls.

I thought the 96-97 went to hydroboost.

Daniel
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'll get some pictures up for yall! Give me a day or so because it is snowing here in Texas! Anyways the check valves will NOT swap, I done tried that. The only solution is to add a T fitting in the vacuum line. 96 booster is a vacuum booster for sure!!!!!

I am still loving this setup. I recomend it to all. The master cylinder doesn't leak out of the darn lid anymore!!!!! I had to replace my starter because it was all destroyed from the brake fluid.
 
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