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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy,

I have just recently bought a 12 valve Cummins (I'm 16 and this is my first truck I drive my grandpas 7.3 so I'm really clueless when it comes to the Cummins Engine, I am a huge 7.3 Powerstroke fan but that's besides the point) It doesn't have a working fuel gauge and my refuel light is always on whenever the engine is fired up, I've been talking to some acquaintances and they have been saying that its my sending unit. Now they have been telling me how to do it, but they weren't clear or specific on how to do it, and with all that's been going on I don't want to risk my safety or theirs by having them over and showing me step by step. So I have no idea how to test it and cannot find a replacement part for my sending unit. If anyone knows any good videos and possible places that sell the part that I'm looking for and isn't too expensive would you mind sending them my way?
 

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There’s a website called Geno’s Garage that will have the sending unit. It’s around $100. There are some “fixes” for the old unit. You could try the search bar on the forum for something like “fuel sending unit fix”. There is a write up somewhere. I used it.


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You could reach up above the fuel tank and make sure the level sensor connector is connected, but likely the sensor itself has gone bad. It's not uncommon at this age. Geno's has the full sending unit/tank canister for 96/97's for ~$200, though you'll need to cut off and splice in a new connector onto your wiring harness since the 94/95's had a different one (They sell a pigtail of the connector as well). The 95-style units are no longer available. The level sensor that Stox is referring to (Just the sending unit itself that screws into the whole 'canister') is, I believe, no longer available, so you'll need to replace the whole canister.

It's a pretty straightforward job. Some find raising the bed to be easier than dropping the tank for access, but once you've done that, swapping the modules is easy enough.
 

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You may not need to swap the module. Somewhere in the stickies, the Beginners Read This, and other tech articles, are some threads about fixing the fuel level sender when the arm/contacts have gotten loose. You may want to check that out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There’s a website called Geno’s Garage that will have the sending unit. It’s around $100. There are some “fixes” for the old unit. You could try the search bar on the forum for something like “fuel sending unit fix”. There is a write up somewhere. I used it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You may not need to swap the module. Somewhere in the stickies, the Beginners Read This, and other tech articles, are some threads about fixing the fuel level sender when the arm/contacts have gotten loose. You may want to check that out.
thank you
 

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I kind of missed this when I responded initially, but can you go over what you consider might be 'safety concerns'?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I kind of missed this when I responded initially, but can you go over what you consider might be 'safety concerns'?
when I put safety I meant that I don't want to risk someone getting sick by me or me getting someone sick if we were to meet up and have them show me what to do since that's getting closer than the 6 foot distance its closer than 6 feet I don't want to risk anyone's safety. but if you miss read it and thought I meant about my truck Id say that my only safety concern is that if my truck is missing my rear axle then id be concerned
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You could reach up above the fuel tank and make sure the level sensor connector is connected, but likely the sensor itself has gone bad. It's not uncommon at this age. Geno's has the full sending unit/tank canister for 96/97's for ~$200, though you'll need to cut off and splice in a new connector onto your wiring harness since the 94/95's had a different one (They sell a pigtail of the connector as well). The 95-style units are no longer available. The level sensor that Stox is referring to (Just the sending unit itself that screws into the whole 'canister') is, I believe, no longer available, so you'll need to replace the whole canister.

It's a pretty straightforward job. Some find raising the bed to be easier than dropping the tank for access, but once you've done that, swapping the modules is easy enough.
ok cool, I wanted to know is this a definite fix as In it will work or it should work? i want to know before I blow 200 on a part that doesn't end up working
 

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