Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I have a 1989 W250 and my Anti-Lock and Brake error lights are on. I would like to find out how to get the Anti-Lock light to flash for the codes. I am sure this is something that has already been covered and a link would be great, but I am posting this and cannot seem to find a cut and dry method to doing this. I have seen some stuff about grounding a connector pin or something but no pictures or anything. I am just looking for a detailed straight-forward procedure. Pics or video if its out there would be great. I want this system to work in the truck, despite so many people saying to bypass it. I will gladly sink the money into it to get it to work. Anyways, sorry if this is repetition from another post, I just need some guidance here. Thanks guys!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,059 Posts
Usually when the light comes on it's because the RWAL freezes up, just replace it with a new one if you think you really need it. In case you don't know where it's located it's above the rear axle on the frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I was planning on replacing that anyways...good to know and thank you! I am still just trying to figure out how to get the Anti-Lock light to flash the codes...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,059 Posts
I was planning on replacing that anyways...good to know and thank you! I am still just trying to figure out how to get the Anti-Lock light to flash the codes...
I really don't think your going to get any codes. It's nothing like the newer ABS systems it's only a RWAL valve, no wheel sensors or anything else.

That's why most will just delete the RWAL valve and unplug the black box.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Well there is a wheel speed sensor on the top of the differential housing that uses a magnet on the ring gear or something near that to pickup wheel speed. Its not out of the transmission. There is a way to pull codes though. I understand its way before OBD-II but there is a factory scan tool called a DRB-II scanner that has the connector for it but it is a big money tool. There are things online and on youtube showing the codes and stuff but they either do not explain it well or show in the video how they have connected to the module to get the light to flash. But what I can tell you is that they aren't using any scan tool and they are grouding and powering certain pins on the module but I am not sure which...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,727 Posts
There is only the RWAL valve in the system, and the magnetic pick up and ring gear on the axle to tell the ABS module what the axle is doing, not a lot of things you need a code(s) for. The fact no one has come forth with the information you are looking for, nor have you been able to find the DIY procedures anywhere on line think it shows you how little people care about this system being functional.

They were problematic when new, and never got better with age, hence the reason nearly 99% of people either disconnect the ABS module or bypass the RWAL valve. I did both and would not consider going back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I like to make old stuff like that work. It is there, so I think it should work. Back then it was such an innovative new feature and I am the type to think that is really cool. That is my motivation to make it work, no matter how crazy that sounds. I will link a video here to show what I am talking about with the pin powering/grouding. It is a thing, it is just not specific enough as to how to do it. I am happy there is so little to go on with only 3 main components: the module, valve, and speed sensor. Here is the video link:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,059 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,059 Posts
That was a lot of great info on that link. Pretty much exactly what I needed. Thank you so much!!
Since you was so set on fixing something you didn't need to I figured i'd help you find some info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Since you was so set on fixing something you didn't need to I figured i'd help you find some info.
haha I appreciate that! I am sure i am of the 1% who wants to make it work, but that is why I want to make it work...thanks for your help and consistent responses, though even considering you disagree with me on fixing it lol
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,059 Posts
It's like I tell everyone that's dead set on something " it's your truck you can do what you want with it ". Even though we know of better ways of fixing things then Dodge did from the factory we can still help fix them to factory. This issue is just one of many on these old 1st Gens.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,444 Posts
I will also add there is 9 codes the box will spit out. 9/10 times, I have found it to be greenrot in the sensor cable that goes between frame connection and axle.

Robert
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Oh awesome thank you also, I turned the key to the on position and grounded out the single pin on the diagnostic connector and I could not get any codes to flash, it just stayed solid lit. I grounded to the glovebox light, battery terminal, and engine block, and nothing.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,059 Posts
What ever happened with this in case someone else may want a RWAL fixed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
No matter what I do I cannot get the light to flash. I found the diagnostic connector and it has one pin inside. I grounded that to many different places with the key in the "run/on" position and no flashing. Every grounding point I tried was a good ground and I waited up to 5 minutes with each so I am somewhat lost on it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,059 Posts
That's why everyone just unplugs the black box and doesn't worry about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Yeah, I know. I am going to throw a valve unit at it. Not too bad at $100 on RockAuto and redo the brakes and brake lines and bleed it really good. If the light goes off, great, if not I will concede defeat, unplug the box, and move on.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,059 Posts
When the valve goes bad that's what usually sets off the light so replacing the valve will probably shut the light off.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top