THEN, I started teardown of the engine while everything was on the frame. A big, rolling engine stand, haha. Later I got the NP205 off, 47RH off and the 6BT onto an engine stand, and rolled the frame out of the garage and out of the way. The garage is still a mess, but I'm getting it sorted a little better. Some things that happened...
1) Pulled the injection lines, fuel pump, injectors, valve covers, turbo and exhaust manifold off the engine. I made sure the engine was at TDC, then I pulled the fan off, belt, timing cover, injection pump gear, vacuum pump and injection pump. The plan is to replace the vacuum pump per jimbo486's thread
and power steering pump per thrashingcow's thread
while doing a hydroboost setup. I got a screaming deal on a new vacuum pump via RockAuto (wholesaler clearance, last one remaining, over 50% off normal price) and was a bit confused at the protrusion on the timing case gear, as compared to the old pump's gear. No matter, the timing case is made to fit this protrusion perfectly, so it still works.
1.5) Before pulling the head off the engine block, I found that the ear of the upper water neck housing cracked and broke off (see picture). I had planned to replace the water neck and thermostat housing with a newer style that points toward the driver's side to properly use with the cross-flow radiator, but this piece that broke was on the head where that new housing would bolt to. This prompted a decision... I could have a buddy use a nickel filler rod and tig weld that broken tab back on, and then pay to have the head decked, and pay an extra $45 for injector sleeves since it's a 9mm non-intercooled head and all the injector nozzles/rebuilds I can find are for the newer 7mm injectors, or... I can see about getting a new head. Guy not to far from me was selling 18 of them on Facebook marketplace and eBay, and I was able to work out a cash deal with local pickup that was less than the price of the machine work and sleeves for the old head. (Machinist actually told me that was the better way to go too.) Sure I went from a head made in West Germany to one made in China, but it was made by DCEC (Cummins) and came ready to go and loaded with new valves, retainers and springs. I'll still have to replace the springs with a set of 60lb over Cummins brand springs that I purchased from PoorMansDiesel (part #3916691 x 12) and have my rockers milled for the use of ARP headstuds, so the machinist will still have some work to do from me.
The pistons and cylinders didn't look too bad. There had been a slight headgasket leak on cyl 6, and it had a little bit of water on top of the piston, but everything looked good. Plenty of carbon buildup but no real discernible ridge in the cylinders. They're a little more shiny/glazed than I want, but you can still see the crosshatch. Looks just like you'd expect a Cummins with roughly 150k miles to look. The plan here is to replace the bearings & rings, re-hone the cylinders, and call it good.
2) I did a complete teardown of the injection pump. The resources on the web that explain how to do this are scattered all over the place, with a lot of dead links, but ultimately if you're pulling the pump and have the engine at TDC it's not as difficult or risky as people make it sound. A couple of the best resources I found are 1stGen545's thread
and Mike's 1993 Dodge Cummins Truck Blog
(from the landing point of this blog link, click "previous page" to cycle through the entries regarding his VE pump, as they are posted in reverse chronological order as per a blog format). After tearing down the injection pump almost completely, I decided to use that Harbor Freight soda blaster to remove all the old, thick, bubbling black paint that was all over the place. The soda blaster did a dang good job at it, too. I polished up the copper and zinc coated steel parts with a tiny wire wheel on a dremel (and so far I've destroyed 3 of those wheels and counting), taped off stuff I didn't want to paint, and used self-etching primer on the cast aluminum injection pump case before finishing off with Rustoleum gloss black engine enamel (not only heat resistant, but also fuel & oil resistant to keep the paint from bubbling up).
3) I have purchased a new THD fuel pin and 3800 rpm governor spring, along with a THD hvlp fuel pump when Eric offered 50% off for 36 hours on his Facebook group page. Also used the promo code "decent1stgen" for an extra 10% off, and I recommend you go check out the guy's YouTube page - he's just a regular guy fixing up his trucks, so the content is very relatable. I also broke down and purchased the Bosch specialty socket kit for the VE pump, because I can't get the 3-sided plug off the rear housing to replace that last o-ring without the special sockets, and I don't want to cram on a 12-point socket on the other two 12.6mm 3-sided retaining bolts on the sides in order to get them back on and torqued to the correct spec.
Next on the schedule is: a) tear down, clean up, paint and reseal the NP205; (b) finish the Crew Cab frame tear-down, blast and paint with Chassis Saver, top coat with gloss black enamel, and get my axles swapped from the single-cab frame to the Crew Cab frame; (c) tear down, clean up, rebuild and paint the 47RH; (d) Finish the rebuild on the 12v, adding a new water pump, new ac compressor. I think I'm going to keep my oil pump as it looks nearly brand new with no wear whatsoever, and I was never having any oil pressure problems outside replacing the oil pressure sensor. Pics to follow!
(Pulled this nasty-looking VE pump and the timing/woodruff key had been mangled - THD hooked me up with a brand new replacement)
(Started the engine teardown - the KDP had NOT been tabbed)
(This is the ear off the old head that broke off; it can and still will be tig welded back on)
(Vacuum pump timing case gear comparison, old flat vs. new protrusion)
(Rockers & Lifters pulled from the head; Rockers still need milled for ARP studs)
(Engine block with head removed, cylinder inspection, crosshatch)
(I'm going to need to fab a better transmission mount...)
(This little groove in the sealing surface of the trans/transfer case had me confused, but it's supposed to be there. My rear transmission seal was obviously leaking trans fluid)
(Getting things separated)