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I have an 06 ram 3500 dually 4x4/ 48re/ 3.42 gears. "Project"

I purchased the Hamilton cam 188/220 based off what I've read on here on older posts.

my question here is... is there a BETTER option for my setup or power and efficiency goals? (Trying to achieve +5mpg towing/+7mpg unloaded or better on setting 1 of 6 positions on the switch with 6 being around 575-600hp+ ish ) i would like to see these numbers over stock mpg. But it really isn't a big deal i just want it to behave in a more tailored to "me" style. And get the best "possible" chance at better economy.

I've seen roller cams but those move the power band WAY up there I'm assuming due to overlap. I wonder if there is a company or tech available that knows what is possible on the lower end power as you do get better economy at lower engine speeds, I tend to stay below 2000rpm on a light throttle (1500-1800 up to 70mph unless I'm feeling spirited lol. I'm I interested in the profiles of the 188/220. But a bit higher lift maybe/ slightly less duration?

If my injectors are only capable of 650-700hp at present. I will fly cut or do what ever if there is a better option. I didn't think with all the porting and turbine upgrade that I would need the towing cam. As it is designed for higher exhuast pressures with less overlap so I skipped it. Maybe this was a mistake. But I think I would like to see if anyone when with a custom roller setup specifically for best efficiency and higher lift without extending duration too much.

There seams to be allot of variations to what people see or think the 188/220 cams are capable of mpg wize, power onset, and power band being extended or moved a bit higher. Bottom line, I've been driving my daily 04.5 (2005) ram with a 400under stall and it struggles with the stock tune and torque management, I need low end power for the 1400rpm converter stall speed to get me going better from the red light (I know a tune will help by removing the torque management on both trucks) but I still want to add efficiency where its left on the table and power up top. my rpm limit was raised to 4k on the project 4x4. With the conical springs and valve job moving valve height into head about .042" I do believe I'm capable of handling quite a bit more lift without having pockets in the pistons. I do not want to decrease compression at the cost of flow as it would be negatively effect the efficiency. Maybe I'll add a 6.7 crank to raise the compression and clearance the piston. This will for sure help overall as I don't plan to go much over 600hp

MY BUDDY'S truck i biult runs the same setup as MY truck 4x4 plans, but haven't driven his long enough to know if the 188/220 will be ok as his had an electrical issues with the cam sensor catching fire in the crank case on the way home from first drive and now seams to be loosing fuel In the tune all over the board at present now. So he will likely be looking at re-tuning his 03. With a late 04 ecu and possibly gain trans tuning. Atleast I think the 2004 has this ability. (Not the 05 considered the 04.5)


I do need to figure out how to add my trucks info here but basically I'm wanting to build a tow rig that gets the best economy possible while towing and while unloaded in town.

The previous 400 under stall converter got me about 80-86miles more per tank on average. Alone with NO tunes ever done. Just stock with a biult transmission and stock engine.
So Im hoping to improve on that.

Biuld list:
*DPC 1400 stall, triple disk, 12 bolt, BILLET converter.
*Planning to build a 6.7 bottom end for it if I can get my hands on a 6.7 block.
(For now its a 5.9)

*XDP valve bridges
*Conical springs
*Hamilton extreme push rods.
  • DNJ "exhaust valves" for the intakes ( I ordered 24 black nitrided valves but they sent only 7 in colored boxes that actually were and the rest looked stock and came in plain cardboard boxes with the same part# kinda odd. but, I noticed the plain ones had a little more mass/ nicer ramp on the back side that would be more beneficial for the intake flow path so I came up with the idea to use those on the intakes and to correct the order after explaining to DNJ about the 12 I wanted to keep for the Intake and reorder the missing 5 black nitrided valves.)
  • DNJ black nitride exhaust valves on exhaust's.
*Ported head manifold and turbine
*total seal gap-less ring sets
*coated rod/main bearings
*new big bang injection tow injectors. (I like bbi-> www.bigbanginjection.com injectors due to the upgraded Internals being more DURABLE and the tighter 2 MICRON clearances that allow them to have a half life of around 400k WITH FASS FUEL SYSTEM.
*banks ram air /+ the super scoop intake
*ported stock intake horn
*Ported intake horn base and ABOUT A 1/4" of the head's cast iron gasket surface "shelf" that is in the way for the max potential flow possible.
*deleted grid heater
* 6 position switch and economy tune for around 650hp when set on kill
*67/76mm billet turbo upgrade
*100psi map sensor and harness kit that allows a high quality boost reference for tunes to be boost reliant. (Adds power as boost comes online for a much cleaner tune)
*fluid damper
*stage 4 transmission is 4wd 48re built.
(Likely will rollerize the planetary's before it goes in)
*all red eagle fractions (billet extra wide, 3/16" wider front band and rear band are red eagle) *alto power packs in every drum.
*3/16" wider billet front band
*Sonnax billet extended capacity input shaft w/ billet forward piston.
*8 clutches in forward
*5 clutches in direct (May go back to 4 pending my findings weather the 5th clutch's potential to slip off the hub or not)
*11 clutches in overdrive drum
*i did the power pack on the o/d brake also but I kept one out to keep the wavy snap ring to reduce chances of the harsh kick down issue, I think it brought it up to 6 clutches with the machined plate.
*Billet servo's
*billet anti flip rear servo
*Sonnax forged strut and billet anchor
* stock ratio lever.
*48re reprogramming shift kit
*sonnax regulator valve w/one-way port.
*sonnax throttle valve shift correction kit
*sonnax low wear thrusts.
*Billet larger sonnax output shaft and t-case input spool.
*Stock intermediate (for now) will likely be upgraded before it goes in.
*I also used tool steel filler to hard face the castle style drum that transmits power from the forward drum radius to the intermediate shaft via the rear planetary. This will cause the direct drum to wear now but Im OK with that as the clearance is very tight/as in, no slack and I don't think it will wear much if any as both surfaces are rather hard now.



port work as follows-->(3.7mm more open at the valve seats, stock valves, port and bowl restrictions removed, port matched, knifed the exhaust merges, trenched and blended the short exhaust port so it flows more smoothly into the header around the head bolt locations on each port ,polished bowls and exhaust exits. Ported turbine housing, ported waste-gate +11mm and added larger puck(for better flow for compounds later), I polished all internal ports to help reduce or "slow down" build up of corrosion though its inevitable.
After larger seats were installed and cut, I blended them into new portwork. There is only one angle and I kept only the material that meets contact with the valves with a slight 60° beveled to help flow on new valve angle is set to 45° from the 35° original seat angle.
*3.42 gears amsoil fluids.
*banks diff cover
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Lower carbon footprint than new junk
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I've heard of people not taking a low rpm hit from the 188/220 but I've also heard of several that did. For what you are looking for best possible fuel economy and highest efficiency I would lean towards the 178/208 which is made for that.
 

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Lower carbon footprint than new junk
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Also with the 67mm wheel for towing at lower rpm you're not going to be happy.
 

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I went with the 178-208 and it’s a blast to drive . As soon as you hit the throttle it’s go time ! I’ve ran quite a few different profiles and this one is hands down the funest to daily drive
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I went with the 178-208 and it’s a blast to drive . As soon as you hit the throttle it’s go time ! I’ve ran quite a few different profiles and this one is hands down the funest to daily drive
Thanks allot for all the info guys I think I'll save the cam for my daily and get the 178/208. But I'm still going to follow this for a few weeks to see if there is anything new on the market sense cams have come to market for the cummins.. I think there was a company that did roller cam conversions but I lost the link.

I updated the post to make a little more sense.
But I do think I will run a 6.7 crank to help raise compression a bit. This alone should help. Plus gain about .2 displacement I believe and help down low. Though the 6.7 block and destroked with a 5.9 is best I will likely have it decked though it's frowned upon but I'm not making over 600-650hp so I don't think it will be a serious issue for me. But for now I think ima look for a 6.7 crank.
 

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Lower carbon footprint than new junk
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I'm sure that Hamilton can set you up with a roller cam. There is a also No Limit Manufacturing that sells flat tappet and roller cam, and you might be thinking about Wagler for their solid lifter conversion for the 2019+ trucks with roller cams. I would definitely avoid fly cutting the pistons to clear for a large cam for this application but you could get a custom roller cam in the smaller sizes that the flat tappet cams come in would just cost what the roller cams run ~$850-950. Then the roller lifters which I haven't seen prices on.
 

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2004 2500 555/5600 RWD QC/LB
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View attachment 954937
I have an 06 ram 3500 dually 4x4/ 48re/ 3.42 gears. "Project"

I purchased the Hamilton cam 188/220 based off what I've read on here on older posts.

my question here is... is there a BETTER option for my setup or power and efficiency goals? (Trying to achieve +5mpg towing/+7mpg unloaded or better on setting 1 of 6 positions on the switch with 6 being around 575-600hp+ ish ) i would like to see these numbers over stock mpg. But it really isn't a big deal i just want it to behave in a more tailored to "me" style. And get the best "possible" chance at better economy.

I've seen roller cams but those move the power band WAY up there I'm assuming due to overlap. I wonder if there is a company or tech available that knows what is possible on the lower end power as you do get better economy at lower engine speeds, I tend to stay below 2000rpm on a light throttle (1500-1800 up to 70mph unless I'm feeling spirited lol. I'm I interested in the profiles of the 188/220. But a bit higher lift maybe/ slightly less duration?

If my injectors are only capable of 650-700hp at present. I will fly cut or do what ever if there is a better option. I didn't think with all the porting and turbine upgrade that I would need the towing cam. As it is designed for higher exhuast pressures with less overlap so I skipped it. Maybe this was a mistake. But I think I would like to see if anyone when with a custom roller setup specifically for best efficiency and higher lift without extending duration too much.

There seams to be allot of variations to what people see or think the 188/220 cams are capable of mpg wize, power onset, and power band being extended or moved a bit higher. Bottom line, I've been driving my daily 04.5 (2005) ram with a 400under stall and it struggles with the stock tune and torque management, I need low end power for the 1400rpm converter stall speed to get me going better from the red light (I know a tune will help by removing the torque management on both trucks) but I still want to add efficiency where its left on the table and power up top. my rpm limit was raised to 4k on the project 4x4. With the conical springs and valve job moving valve height into head about .042" I do believe I'm capable of handling quite a bit more lift without having pockets in the pistons. I do not want to decrease compression at the cost of flow as it would be negatively effect the efficiency. Maybe I'll add a 6.7 crank to raise the compression and clearance the piston. This will for sure help overall as I don't plan to go much over 600hp

MY BUDDY'S truck i biult runs the same setup as MY truck 4x4 plans, but haven't driven his long enough to know if the 188/220 will be ok as his had an electrical issues with the cam sensor catching fire in the crank case on the way home from first drive and now seams to be loosing fuel In the tune all over the board at present now. So he will likely be looking at re-tuning his 03. With a late 04 ecu and possibly gain trans tuning. Atleast I think the 2004 has this ability. (Not the 05 considered the 04.5)


I do need to figure out how to add my trucks info here but basically I'm wanting to build a tow rig that gets the best economy possible while towing and while unloaded in town.

The previous 400 under stall converter got me about 80-86miles more per tank on average. Alone with NO tunes ever done. Just stock with a biult transmission and stock engine.
So Im hoping to improve on that.

Biuld list:
*DPC 1400 stall, triple disk, 12 bolt, BILLET converter.
*Planning to build a 6.7 bottom end for it if I can get my hands on a 6.7 block.
(For now its a 5.9)

*XDP valve bridges
*Conical springs
*Hamilton extreme push rods.
  • DNJ "exhaust valves" for the intakes ( I ordered 24 black nitrided valves but they sent only 7 in colored boxes that actually were and the rest looked stock and came in plain cardboard boxes with the same part# kinda odd. but, I noticed the plain ones had a little more mass/ nicer ramp on the back side that would be more beneficial for the intake flow path so I came up with the idea to use those on the intakes and to correct the order after explaining to DNJ about the 12 I wanted to keep for the Intake and reorder the missing 5 black nitrided valves.)
  • DNJ black nitride exhaust valves on exhaust's.
*Ported head manifold and turbine
*total seal gap-less ring sets
*coated rod/main bearings
*new big bang injection tow injectors. (I like bbi-> www.bigbanginjection.com injectors due to the upgraded Internals being more DURABLE and the tighter 2 MICRON clearances that allow them to have a half life of around 400k WITH FASS FUEL SYSTEM.
*banks ram air /+ the super scoop intake
*ported stock intake horn
*Ported intake horn base and ABOUT A 1/4" of the head's cast iron gasket surface "shelf" that is in the way for the max potential flow possible.
*deleted grid heater
* 6 position switch and economy tune for around 650hp when set on kill
*67/76mm billet turbo upgrade
*100psi map sensor and harness kit that allows a high quality boost reference for tunes to be boost reliant. (Adds power as boost comes online for a much cleaner tune)
*fluid damper
*stage 4 transmission is 4wd 48re built.
(Likely will rollerize the planetary's before it goes in)
*all red eagle fractions (billet extra wide, 3/16" wider front band and rear band are red eagle) *alto power packs in every drum.
*3/16" wider billet front band
*Sonnax billet extended capacity input shaft w/ billet forward piston.
*8 clutches in forward
*5 clutches in direct (May go back to 4 pending my findings weather the 5th clutch's potential to slip off the hub or not)
*11 clutches in overdrive drum
*i did the power pack on the o/d brake also but I kept one out to keep the wavy snap ring to reduce chances of the harsh kick down issue, I think it brought it up to 6 clutches with the machined plate.
*Billet servo's
*billet anti flip rear servo
*Sonnax forged strut and billet anchor
* stock ratio lever.
*48re reprogramming shift kit
*sonnax regulator valve w/one-way port.
*sonnax throttle valve shift correction kit
*sonnax low wear thrusts.
*Billet larger sonnax output shaft and t-case input spool.
*Stock intermediate (for now) will likely be upgraded before it goes in.
*I also used tool steel filler to hard face the castle style drum that transmits power from the forward drum radius to the intermediate shaft via the rear planetary. This will cause the direct drum to wear now but Im OK with that as the clearance is very tight/as in, no slack and I don't think it will wear much if any as both surfaces are rather hard now.



port work as follows-->(3.7mm more open at the valve seats, stock valves, port and bowl restrictions removed, port matched, knifed the exhaust merges, trenched and blended the short exhaust port so it flows more smoothly into the header around the head bolt locations on each port ,polished bowls and exhaust exits. Ported turbine housing, ported waste-gate +11mm and added larger puck(for better flow for compounds later), I polished all internal ports to help reduce or "slow down" build up of corrosion though its inevitable.
After larger seats were installed and cut, I blended them into new portwork. There is only one angle and I kept only the material that meets contact with the valves with a slight 60° beveled to help flow on new valve angle is set to 45° from the 35° original seat angle.
*3.42 gears amsoil fluids.
*banks diff cover
View attachment 954935
View attachment 954933
View attachment 954932
View attachment 954934
View attachment 954940

View attachment 954930

Save money by spending money?

That’s quickly a deep hole

— Below are questions you needn’t answer for this forum because of my post. They’re the reality of how to look at modifications above and beyond what these factory-delivered over-powered trucks already delivered. How to Clarify.

1). How many years will you own/operate this?

2). How many miles in that period?

3). What percentage of those miles will be towing?

4). What fuel price are you projecting?

5). What payback period above and beyond a HQ rebuild?

6). What are you towing?

7). Better spec of trailer (if an RV) yields better results.

8). Better operational standards cover the rest.


— I realize you asserted that the build was to make you happy as determinant of whether you judged it successful.


So,
where my experience and my combined rig might be an aid I spec’d both vehicles from scratch to be Longest Life & Highest MPG.

My “ease into retirement rig”. Bought it in 2007. Retirement still a ways away.

First I had to chart “the what”:

Hard Numbers:

A). The Aero & Travel Speed sweet spot is from 58-62/mph.

B). Gearing (engine power) had fit that reality.

C). The TT had to be fully aerodynamic.

D). Daily commuter or solo use predominates over towing miles.

E). More than ten years ownership at 8-10k annually (now at 15 years).

F). Best steering, braking & handling have priority over engine power. (IFS + rack & pinion steering with 4-Whl disc). 4WD a penalty.

Then I had to figure out how to best use it (despite decades as truck driver and with RV owner experience).

G). A plan to arrive at best results needs changes to driving habits.

— My overall MPG Average is 21 if I stay at it.
Highway at not less than 24, Town at 19, and Towing at 15 (Average, not the highs). That’s not where I started.

My truck is dead-stock.

I’m posting to your thread not to brag or argue or any of that sort of thing. You have the opportunity to build a high MPG tow vehicle if that gets closer to what would make you happy.

Diesel is $5.75/gal average this week.
Are there guarantees it won’t go to $10?

Would anything change from todays plan if fuel stayed high and maybe went higher?

To stay in the game despite unforeseen problems in 2007: Highest reliability over longest life with greatest ability to do work at the lowest cost (is how I settled on my course of action).

Safe operation never a given.
Never an assumption.

— The roads have only gotten worse in my lifetime for who’s now upon them.

Once I had my rig together I found one-dozen other good comps of men also using an early HPCR to pull 28-34’ all-aluminum travel trailers in the South Central US or Gulf Coast to have valid number comparisons.

To whom will you be able to compare?

1). Truck & Trailer Spec is frozen in place.
2). Climate is second in importance.
3). Topography, third.
4). Driver motivation remains.

The spread from best to worst drivers according to Cummins is 30% (that’s their four categories, in order).

That 30% can’t be used to “improve” a from-scratch start. Ones a good driver . . or he’s a punk who doesn’t care about his family’s money.

— With factory-spec what MPG while solo with 100% use of cruise control at 59-MPH for 300-miles? That’s the benchmark number against which all other numbers are compared.

Assuming one isn’t going to move away from where he now lives, all that remains to improving FE is vehicle spec during a re-build.

I find — and joke — that a 555 & the NV5600 was a marriage made in heaven.

The factory blend of reliability, power & economy never bettered.

But it might be with a 3.42/68RFE behind the right 6.7L. (If it works against limits posted first in the above).

So when it comes to building a rig, speak now or forever hold your peace.

@steve05ram360 likes to write about economy/power issues.

@Alcharger recently went from a sloppy 18-mpg highway to 24-mpg true on a recent trip.

@rdefayette built a quick-detach aero bed cover ten years back that improves his mpg more than any magic box will.

Take a look.

Good luck
.
 
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