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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
i installed ddp 50hp injectors and upgraded my edge to the cts so i can read rp now. at wot it get to 14-16k ive seen it around 18-19k when just driving. i do not know what the rp was before the install of injector nozzles. is there a way to find out if it is the cp3 or did i mess up on the install. truck seems to run fine. im going to do some data logging on monday. truck has 135xxx miles on it


thanks
 

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You download both Fusion and my style from edge's website.
Do a data log. Wait for the edge to shut down completely after turning the truck off then connect it to your computer with the supplied cord.

Open my style and click on the only device in the middle. on the right click data logs.
click on your log number and save as. It will download to your computer in excel format.

You can also double click the log file and it opens in a window with a play pause button and graph.

Drain to a bottle then change your fuel filter first. This is a good time to bump the key and make sure the lift pump is operating.
Do you have a lift pump pressure gauge. You need positive pressure to the CP3.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i do not have a gauge from the airdog to cp3. i just changed the filters on the 200 miles ago. i can hear it fire up once i turn the key
 

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You can remove the banjoe from the rail P relief valve move the tube away a little and start the truck fuel will come from the return tube but nothing should come from the valve. You can power brake some to raide the RP and check.

If you maybe didn't follow the injector install perfect the tubes might be leaking off some pressure. Do they have wetness, rougher idle after warmed vs cold, hard start, etc

Possibly FCA but no way to test it. You have to simply pony up and buy one to know,
Geno's garage

My Cp3 failed shortly after an edge install but the truck did sit for years with bad fuel prior to purchase which I blame it on.

A very high quality scanner like snap on will show commanded vs actual rp.
Injectors can bypass to much return fuel or leak out the nozzles,
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
truck runs fine. i have over 2k miles since nozzles were installed and no rough idle or wetness. i might buy the fca and hope for the best. its a $108 gamble. i was looking into a 75% over cp3 but if i can run this cp3 for a while longer i wont be sad and will save me 1400$.
 

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Were the connector tubes torqued correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I went off what ddp said with a torque wrench. But I'll check
 

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:doh: I would highly recommend going off the write up here on Cummins forum.
pre-torque then loosen injector, pre-torque tube, final torque injector, final torque tube, etc.

Countless trucks that did it other ways with brand new injectors had issues until following that one to a T.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Which write up? I'll do that tomorrow
 

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With only 14k psi RP at WOT, the truck has major power loss at WOT and top end.
When you get it fixed correctly, you will see the difference.

If the tube retorque does not solve the problems, you've got major work to do.
see below.

Were the connector tubes new? If not were they examined closely under magnification for any pressure etching from tip leaks, tip fractures or interior/exterior rust flaking off. Rusty connector tubes kill new injectors from stuck open inj. return valves with a rust chunk in them to new nozzle pintles scratched/etched or blocked open by a rust chunk. Rust chunks also plug nozzle holes.
Leaking tube tips just make your life miserable, often one cannot see the micro cracks even under 100 mag., they only show up under high pressure, think 15k psi.


Start with measuring the lift pump output pressure under WOT. If negative find the problem restriction or LP is titts up.

Then check each injector's return flow reduction by blocking off injectors 1 at a time. You picked a brand of rebuilts that have leaker problems.

Any fuel in oil, or strong white smoke on cold startup or strong black smoke on WOT? Leaker nozzle/s or a leaking CP3 HP pump seal into the crankcase via the front gear case.

Good luck, hope you have lots of hair, some of it's going to come out unless your are lucky.
 

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If you are running 60 H.P. nozzles with a completely stock CP3, there is your problem, need at least a victory CP3 kit to support those nozzles. Might get by with it if the CP3 was brand new but 120,000 miles??????
 

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I agree the victory is enough for 50-60's if the pump is in good shape.
The thing is though it does not increase volume at wot for instance.
It increases the response or how quick it gets there when you press on the pedal.
The factory pump should have the same output so to speak.
 

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I just installed a edge insight on my truck and the rail pressure reading is quite different from the readings I got from my Autometer and my glow shift gauges that I had before. You might want to validate your rail pressure at a shop or with a different gauge.
 

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That will never hurt but where does your glowshift get it's data.
My Edge and Isspro read as close to the same as I can see. The edge is way more accurate or it shows more spikes up and down. The isspro will not bounce or move when my variable is around 100-200 psi but the edge shows it. Somewhere around 200-250psi variable the isspro catches up with showing the bounce.

Because they use the same sensor the only thing I can see a stand alone RP gauge doing is potentially degrading the signal by added connections bad connections in the supplied pigtail.

I think our pid rail pressure is as accurate as can be with that sensor.

Remember all the (Holy grail) EFI live stuff about logging commanded vs actual rail pressure they are going off the ECM supplied data also.
 

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Just to chime to in here...what should rail pressure be at WOT? I have stock sticks and cp3 at this point.
 

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Thanks sir, I'm fairly certain my RP has never seen over 20, probably the previous owners install the of the factory injectors 30k miles ago caused it
 

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03-early 04 are lucky to see 21,000. Most are around 20,500. Stock
04.5 05 by the book is 23,206 or 24,206 (can't remember) factory tune.
If you have a smarty both will be the 23,000 plus.
 
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