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Discussion Starter #1
The OEM Bosch 132A Alternator just died at 181k, sounds like the bearings on the pulley when the truck gets hot after a 1/2 hour on my '01. Should I replace it with the same Bosch 132A or the Denso 136A, both the same price, Thanks
 

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Both are high quality but the question is: who is rebuilding the ones that you are looking at. Brand new is very expensive, just saying. Need to look at the fine print of those you are looking at.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Got it thanks. I picked up the 132A from O'Reilly's $112. If I have to keep bringing back for warranty, so be it.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Alternator wasn't the problem. The gauge goes down to no charge, check gauges warning light when it gets up to normal operation temp. Any clue guys?
 

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You can do the cluster test.

Test your instrument cluster and if you get any of the error codes I have the chart. Instructions below are from the 2001 manual.

The instrument cluster actuator test will put the
instrument cluster into its self-diagnostic mode. In
this mode the instrument cluster can perform a self diagnostic
test that will confirm that the instrument
cluster circuitry, the gauges, and the CCD data bus
message-controlled indicators are capable of operating
as designed. During the actuator test the instrument
cluster circuitry position each of the gauge
needles at various calibration points, illuminate each
of the segments in the Vacuum-Fluorescent Display
(VFD), and turn all of the CCD data bus message controlled
indicators on and off.
Successful completion of the actuator test will confirm
that the instrument cluster is operational. However,
there may still be a problem with the CCD data
bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the
Engine Control Module (ECM), the Airbag Control
Module (ACM), the Controller Anti-lock Brake (CAB),
or the inputs to one of these electronic control modules.
Use a DRBIIIt scan tool to diagnose these components.
Refer to the appropriate diagnostic
information.
(1) Begin the test with the ignition switch in the
Off position.
(2) Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
(3) While still holding the odometer/trip odometer
switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to
the On position, but do not start the engine.
(4) Keep the odometer/trip odometer switch button
depressed for about ten seconds, until CHEC
appears in the odometer display, then release the
odometer/trip odometer switch button.
(5) A series of three-digit numeric failure messages
may appear in the odometer display, depending upon
the failure mode. If a failure message appears, refer
to the Instrument Cluster Failure Message chart for
the description and proper correction. If no failure
message appears, the actuator test will proceed as
described in Step 6.
(6) The instrument cluster will begin the Vacuum
Fluorescent Display (VFD) walking segment test.
This test will require the operator to visually inspect
each VFD segment as it is displayed to determine a
pass or fail condition. First, all of the segments will
be illuminated at once; then, each individual segment
of the VFD will be illuminated in sequence. If any
segment in the display fails to illuminate, repeat the
test to confirm the failure. If the failure is confirmed,
replace the faulty instrument cluster. Following completion
of the VFD walking segment test, the actuator
test will proceed as described in Step 7.
(7) The instrument cluster will perform a bulb
check of each indicator that the instrument cluster
circuitry controls. If the wait-to-start indicator does
not illuminate during this test, the instrument cluster
should be removed. However, check that the
incandescent bulb is not faulty and that the bulb
holder is properly installed on the instrument cluster
electronic circuit board before considering instrument
cluster replacement. If the bulb and bulb holder
check OK, replace the faulty instrument cluster.
Each of the remaining instrument cluster circuitry
controlled indicators except the cruise indicator are
illuminated by a Light Emitting Diode (LED). If an
LED or the cruise indicator in the VFD, fails to illuminate
during this test, the instrument cluster must
be replaced. Following the bulb check test, the actuator
test will proceed as described in Step 8.
(8) The instrument cluster will perform a gauge
actuator test. In this test the instrument cluster circuitry
positions each of the gauge needles at three
different calibration points, then returns the gauge
needles to their relaxed positions. If an individual
gauge does not respond properly, or does not respond
at all during the gauge actuator test, the instrument
cluster should be removed. However, check that the
gauge terminal pins are properly inserted through
the spring-clip terminal pin receptacles on the instrument
cluster electronic circuit board before considering
instrument cluster replacement. If the gauge
terminal connections are OK, replace the faulty
instrument cluster.
(9) The actuator test is now completed. The instrument
cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic
mode and return to normal operation at the
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You can do the cluster test.
Thanks maxwedge572, I'll run that test, I forgot to put in the previous post that the first 2x the voltage dropped there was a loud squeal from the engine the second it dropped.
 

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Don't know what you did , but use the Bosch if you can, Nippon's have a lot more ACv issues than the Bosch. 132/136 don't matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Don't know what you did , but use the Bosch if you can, Nippon's have a lot more ACv issues than the Bosch. 132/136 don't matter.
I had to get the 136A Nippon because when I installed the 132A Bosch, the + post was too big. So I had to take it back and they ran my OEM part # and it came back as a 2000 alt. My '01 was early production and the had extra Alt. from the '00 production run so the S O B's used up the old Alt and then used the new alt. with the large post & pig tail! Thanks Chrysler!! They didn't have the '00 132A in stock.
 

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Make sure you check the new one for an AC voltage over .03 to .05 vac. If it is take it back. It will cause lockup issues and damage the ECM to death.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Make sure you check the new one for an AC voltage over .03 to .05 vac. If it is take it back. It will cause lockup issues and damage the ECM to death.
I will, Thanks. Any idea what's making my voltage drop when it gets to normal Op. Temp?
 

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Drop to what from what?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
From charging around 14v, loud squeal when she gets to normal operating temp. then It drops to no charge on the gauge until the next time I start it, it's back to charging 14v. Then it does the same thing over again.
 

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If that is the same for both alternators it is elsewhere. Check codes with scan tool. Sounds like either the battery temp sensor is bad and shutting it down or PCM is doing the same thing. Do a search here and goggle and say Dodge battery temp sensor failure symptoms? See what you find.
 

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Also check ground wire from PCM to firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, The codes I get are P1693, P1682, P0382,P0380,P0230
 

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Have grid heaters been deleted? They are near the battery temp sensor.Damage , Corrosion etc?

Read below. Sign up if needed.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Have grid heaters been deleted? They are near the battery temp sensor.Damage , Corrosion etc?

Read below. Sign up if needed.

I don't think so, ill check it out. Thanks Again!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Make sure you check the new one for an AC voltage over .03 to .05 vac. If it is take it back. It will cause lockup issues and damage the ECM to death.
Looks like it was the Battery Temp. Sensor. Thanks bigfish for the help! refresh me on how to perform the Alt. AC voltage test please. If it's over .05 vac, bring it back, correct? would putting a inline 5.5 fuse on the blue wire to the PCM help prevent this on Mopar1973man's site suggests?
 

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Checking AC you just use agood voltmeter with a 2v scale, not 20 or200. Pyt red to the hot post to the bttery on back of the alt and ground to its case and check voltage when running idle and 1500. You want to be as close to under .03 as possible .05v ac max. Did you fix/check grid heater relays too? Out for today.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Checking AC you just use agood voltmeter with a 2v scale, not 20 or200. Pyt red to the hot post to the bttery on back of the alt and ground to its case and check voltage when running idle and 1500. You want to be as close to under .03 as possible .05v ac max. Did you fix/check grid heater relays too? Out for today.
Thanks, haven't check the relay's yet. Next on my list, I installed new relay's about 6 years ago when in NJ, Guess they don't last. I'm outside of Tombstone, I'll probably do a delete.
 
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