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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've switched to the dark side! Bought an 06 Mega with a block window and need advice for my build. It will be limited at first due to cash, but heres what im starting with. Found a block, gonna go .020 over and get the pistons coated. No need for cutting them right? Might get my bearings coated as well. I need to find a 12v rods, they're good for 1000hp right?? Is there anything else im missing for bottom end build? The plan is for a 700hp machine eventually. Any advice would be helpful for the Dmax guy. :confused013:
 

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Do it right 12v rods are strong but they will break or bend after a 1000.. go billet do it right the first time... wish I did now I gta pull the engine back out and put then in.. but if its just 700 12v will be fine... I'd also either go 14 mm main studs or get a block girdle.. strengthen that bottom end up a alot more
 

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You will probably need to get the pistons flycut. Chances are you will want to put a cam in, and you'll have to deck the block and the head. So to be safe, I'd get em cut.

But in all reality, if the truck is a spare and you have the time......get monotherms and billet rods. Take all the questioning about strength out of the picture. Take your time and build it right....or take even more time and redoing it the right way....with the added costs.

PS.....I saw a set of 12v brazil rods on CompD for $150.....need to be cryo'd, peened, polished and machined probably.
 
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What you decide to do cam wise will be the deciding factor on fly cuts or not. Mine aren't fly cut, a small but taken off the top for the cam to fit. Haven't seen a good reason for coating bearings yet so I didn't in mine. For 700 you won't need to go crazy with the bottom end.
If your planning on 1k plus the your looking at a whole different spending bracket. Tack on an extra 10k for a 1k whp build IMHO.
 

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I went 12v rods, my goal was to stay at 700hp, then I got greedy and wanted more. After finding a bent rod, I've gone billet. You wont need to flycoat unless you plan on using a really large cam. The 188/220 still can work on a lightly decked head with no issues. Flycoating will drop compression, which you dont really need or wont unless running a huge turbo/injector setup. I weighed getting monotherms myself, but again, if your not running a huge racing/pulling fuel/air setup, coated pistons are fine. Early CR style pistons seem do better with heat tolerance, due to bowl design, which is worth looking into for you. If you've got the time to build it little by little, take the opprotunity to do everything as close to right the first time as possible.
Heres you a good starting point:http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3...sion/513931-quest-driveable-700hp-single.html
 
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Banean, I see on another forum that you are in the top 3 for voting. Looking good so far for you and hope it stays that way for you.
I seen that too, but with one post and a join date of March, I think it might have been an early, sick April fools. :confused013:
 

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I seen that too, but with one post and a join date of March, I think it might have been an early, sick April fools. :confused013:
I noticed that too now and how they had some pretty fuzzy things to say on an open forum about Spartan which I could not believe when I read it that they would say something like that. Anyways, good luck.
 

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I noticed that too now and how they had some pretty fuzzy things to say on an open forum about Spartan which I could not believe when I read it that they would say something like that. Anyways, good luck.
Thanks man:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the advice. Those brazil rods will be on their way today! Thanks Chemmins! I prolly will stick to this 700 hp goal for now though. It really works into my budget as a college student and small business owner. If I ever decided to go bigger ill just build one of the longblocks I picked up. I found a gold mine on 3 longblocks that each had a burnt up piston. All look like .020 will get em back to life. But to recap, get my rotating assembly balanced and some main studs and I will be good on the bottom end?
 

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For 700 hp the 14mm main studs tied into the the gurdle won't be necessary. I myself will be opting for the standard ARP main studs and will alter my stock block stiffener accordingly. Just reassurance over the stock bolts.


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since you're on a budget, a stock bottom end will handle 700hp no problem. No real need for a girdle either. I ran mine a 700+hp for several years without one at all. Coat the pistons but, there's no need to coat the bearing. As long as you keep your fuel/air ratio in check, you'll be good. Don't do that and you'll be melting pistons.

You could build the long block back to stock, invest in some air, fuel and programming and easily be in the 700hp range.

,
 

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Yeah it is not needed by any means but for me I want to build it once so it'll handle more if I ever want to go bigger than 800. Coated pistons and forged rods with a balanced rotating assembly. 188/220 cam, built head. ARP head/main studs. Hoping my pistons won't need fly cut for the cam.


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If you're head has never been decked you should be able to get away with not fly cutting the pistons. 188/220 is just about as aggressive as you can go without fly cutting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well i want to atleast coat the pistons and get 12 valve rods in it. I already bought that set off of compd. Ill just balance the assy and have something i can throw big power at later. :party018: Got a twinned Dirtymax in town id love to pick on!!
 
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