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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Gathering the rest of the parts for the 351 and all the old threads are closed. Im going to use one of Steed's controllers and would like to be able to keep the shock tower without flipping the manifold. There are several T3/T4 adapters but I will probably get a new T4 manifold if there will be room between the shock tower and VGT controller. Anybody got this setup? Looking at a Steed Speed straight T4 manifold or maybe one of the motor home manifolds with adapter.
 

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Gathering the rest of the parts for the 351 and all the old threads are closed. Im going to use one of Steed's controllers and would like to be able to keep the shock tower without flipping the manifold. There are several T3/T4 adapters but I will probably get a new T4 manifold if there will be room between the shock tower and VGT controller. Anybody got this setup? Looking at a Steed Speed straight T4 manifold or maybe one of the motor home manifolds with adapter.
HE351s are T4i (also called WGMT flange) which is different from T4, check out the first post for drawings of each here: T4 vs T4i. You will need the eBay adapter and with that the turbo actuator box will hit the shock tower if you keep the turbo within the correct angle for oil to drain. I modified my shock tower and chopped it down an inch which barely clears. Another option is to get shock saver plates (if you have a lift/leveling kit already), which are just flat plates instead of the raised tower.

Eventually I'll be flipping the manifold anyway to make room for big boy shocks and fabricated towers.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I have Thuren 2” springs and Carli sig series shocks but I think they will be too long for the flat plates. What about one of those motorhome manifolds that put the turbo back further, like common rails? I’ll have to use an adapter either way. Or maybe the straight Steed Speed manifold with adapter? Don’t really want to buy a Steed Speed but I will if I have too.
 

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Why not just use a 6.7 manifold? I'm sure you could pick one up cheap seeing how there is lots of people converting cr's to 2nd gen manifolds.

Probably not the best design for heat in the back cylinders but I do like how clean they look with the turbo tucked away.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
They don’t leak mating round holes to square?
 

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Keep forgetting im in the 94~98 section.. Yeah could be a issue maybe someone can confirm.
 

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someone has run the 6.7 manifold on a 12v with their HE351ve turbo. i don't recall if it's RX7Man or Me78965 (or something like that).

no reports of leaks that i've read about...but you won't be able to use the 6.7 manifold if you have your auto heat exchanger there.

Lil' Blackbox » ? is another controller option if you're still looking for options too.

BJ
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Truck is a manual and I already have one of Steed’s boxes. Black box looks like a good deal though
 

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Seems like flipping the manifold you already have would be a better route in my opinion. Then you don't have to mess around with finding a motorhome manifold or shelling out for a steed manifold and can keep the shocks and towers as well. Why don't you want to flip it?

I'd advise against a 6.7 manifold. Even if it will seal up with the round vs. square ports I you'll have some weird flow and turbulence issues that would probably decrease performance in some way.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I may try that but really hate to put this old manifold back on when I take it off. No problems with exhaust or exhaust housing hitting the fire wall with it flipped over?
 

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I may try that but really hate to put this old manifold back on when I take it off. No problems with exhaust or exhaust housing hitting the fire wall with it flipped over?
I was running a he351ve in a compound setup for a while. This was with a 2nd gen 24v flipped. I had to notch out the vent intake area right below the weather strip for the hood. There was enough hood clearance though.
 

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I still have my stock 12v manifold flipped in my compound setup. I did port and clean up the casting quite a bit though. Mine hadn't shrunk too much. But I will say do not attempt to reuse it unless you resurface the flange area. The ends tend to pull up and you will either have leaks or you will put unnecessary stress on the exhaust ports on the head. I have a big piece of granite that I have some 80 grit on and flatten everything I weld on or put back together in order to ensure it's flat with no leaks. I was amazed how far off my manifold was when I started truing it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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Nice find on the two piece RV style manifold. I didn't know there was such a thing from our aftermarket guys. Might have to look into one of those when I get the big boy shocks and towers.

Adapter is the same one I'm running but it looks like they went up a few bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)

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These manifolds have an offset flange like a CR manifold. I don't think they'll fit a turbo and downpipe unless you modify the firewall for clearance but I could be wrong.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hmmm. I emailed the company in china and am waiting to here back from them on a price. If I can get it cheap enough, i'll go ahead and order one and try it out.
 

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Not sure how much I’d trust a cheap Chinese one piece manifold. The stock ones that are fairly well made are already prone to shrinking and breaking ears off the head. If they use inferior material, like most cheap Chinese metal products, I’d be very weary of it shrinking. Spending a few hundred on a manifold vs. $1000+ for a new head of the flanges break off seems like a no brainer to me
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Evidently, they are a cummins manifold. IDK if the manifolds we get here are made in china or not. Im gonna call cummins tomorrow with the part number to see if they have the chinese part as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Scratch the " Cheap" manifold idea. I can get it for $60 from china but shipping is $150. Local cummins has it in stock but they want over $300 so the DPS from DAP is definitely the best deal.
 
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