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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well howdy from down under.

heads up if you have no clue what I’m on about just search google and throw Australia at the end or ask me. I’m more than happy to explain. I am a qualified mechanic by trade and can never get enough of cars.

I have myself a little project going on at the moment, me and my wife (beautiful woman she is loves cars as much as I do and probably spends more on hers that I do on mine :LOL:) are undertaking this with the ideas of getting it on the road and done under $15k aud here is the rundown.

We already own a 2004 Nissan patrol with a zd30 3.0L (known as the grenade) in-line 4 turbo diesel with a 5 speed manual Australian delivered that does 1-60mph in about 2 years and 3 engines. It has 420000km or 260000m on it and the zd30 is lucky to make it past 150000km/93000m, we want to go touring Australia and want reliability so it’s gotta go.
99883342-2078-4704-9A81-187B0560D441.jpeg

262D8133-D97F-4B46-9812-824E53BF6731.jpeg

6ED49422-EC78-4091-8DE3-A5BFDEE78C6B.jpeg


The patrol is a great car to drive tour and 4wd in they are big in Europe, Middle East and down here they came with a few engine combos but they each have there own issues. If you really love the car you will usually end up buying or converting it to the td42 4.2L turbo diesel (known as the kettle). I was not to keen on throwing that in as they are know to get hot very easy hence the name, or snap cranks. Plus the engines cost around $6000aud for one in decent shape with all the ancillary’s in factory form and to even get to 200hp is $5000+ The amount of work swapping one of them in is about the same as anything because you have to cut the engine mount brackets off the chassis and weld on new ones.

Now the aftermarket support for these cars is just amazing. Seriously you think of it someone Has can or will make it.

I was looking at other option for a swap eg. Td42, ls1/2, duramax or the mighty barra but landed on the 6bt after I learnt about them and there straight up bul****t power reliability and how much of an amazing engine they just are.

So since the end of last year I have been in full recon mode searching and learning about them. I ended up getting a 1996 12v 215hp engine from a ram 3500 from a company called texstar for a pretty nice price compared as to what they sell over here in Australia ($7000aud+). When it rocked up I quickly shot down to the freight company and jammed it in my trailer and unloaded it at home. So my first instinct is give it a good look over and see what I’ve got and get it started on the pallet. what I found was it has arp headstuds, 4K governor springs, emotor USA hx35 turbo with the wastegate wired shut:eek:, timing bumped up to 16 degrees and a few missing bits and pieces. Nothing that will stop me from getting it running. So I borrowed a flex plate from a connection I had made through some pages for the conversion I’m doing on Facebook. Hooked up some jumper leads from my battery and got a very slow crank. Hmm ok 2 Batterys and 2 leads, same slow crank. Ended up having to buy a roll of 00 guage wire and make my own leads with battery clamps and run it straight to the starter just to get it cranking to Re-bleed injectors and get it to kick. But she ran, And she ran good. Next to no blow by and no bad noises, onto the next step strip, asses, refresh, paint and order all the bits.
5D74B7DB-C8B0-416B-BFAA-D681DE7F4321.jpeg

DCA9F4A6-61AA-402B-B7AE-BBB0A600EB23.jpeg

F3366B0F-BC1C-4462-9510-006E555443F2.jpeg

1BDC823A-290B-49CB-90A9-8530DD1EA26C.png


Gearbox options for these are pretty few. You can buy an adapter kit off the shelf and bolt it up to use the factory 5 speed manual. Only issue is once your at 300/350hp they shred the gears and your up for a new box. You can go Allison 1000 or 4l80 with the cost of $10kaud Upwards is a big no. You can run a Nissan/jatco re4 auto but you have to spend some coin to make them take the torque. So only real option is factory Dodge box. So I got myself a 1994 47re from a p pump with the Pcm and wiring harness to go with it.
E0CB1609-5D79-4A2E-BBC6-882805E720D4.jpeg


You wouldn’t believe it but someone actually makes an adapter plate to go from 47re to factory transfer case. So that’s the go for me and they are only an hours drive! :D He also happened to have a hx35w for cheap so I grabbed that.

Engine mounts are easy plenty of people make the kits for them and they are readily available.

So that’s the major bits done and out of the way. Onto the more Cummins specific side of things.

As the engine sits it is now stripped to long block with the oil filter housing and front cover still on. I need to get a gasket kit so I can replace every gasket I can see so I don’t have to worry about leaks, and I need to get some new injectors as they are mismatched and the injector line seats are all damaged or falling apart.
28B760F6-A749-455C-9F90-808841DCF478.jpeg

1D6FC911-EB8C-4B41-8030-D51C41846311.jpeg


My plans are to send the pump of get it cleaned and checked so it’s 100%, paint and clean what needs to be cleaned and start to reassemble and get it ready to go in.

A few questions I have is what are your opinions on Power Driven Diesel and there products I want to buy there 47re auto kit and afc live and a bunch of other stuff but want to make sure I’m spending it on good gear.

Next is does anyone have the service specs and tolerances for a p-pump while getting serviced on a Bosch test bench.

next is I aim to run around 300hp and not one more. What will the auto need to hold that power I have read that it’s pretty basic but I do not mind stepping over budget for the right gear, same for the engine I have read that the 4K gsk some afc mods and an afc live will get me there with the hx35w. But I have read that you should do 60lb springs. Is the absolutely essential or can I get away with the hardened retainers?

Next is coolant bypass kits. When do they become necessary? There is next to no room between the firewall to fit them when in the car so I was wondering if there is another way around this like using the rear coolant sender port down the back as a bypass and tee the sensor in line?

I think that’s about it for now looking forward to hearing from everyone!
Thanks for making it this far if you did read all the way!
 

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Looks like you'll have a nice truck when it's finished, if I was you I wouldn't use a Dodge computer just for the transmission. I used this on my 47re in my Blazer build and it's so easy to use. Dodge Transmission | E-TransControl
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
So the gearbox turned up today.

took it home and threw it in the engine stand so I can work on it on there. Took the pan off so I can let it drain overnight, while it’s off I will weld a drain bung into the pan so I can change oil more regularly.

They look in pretty good shape. Only on plug missing so won’t be to bad at all to work with!
CD68D79C-4991-47D6-9193-015A451AD508.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
looking over the trans and some other info it’s looks like it’s a 47rh. Can anyone confirm for me?
 

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looking over the trans and some other info it’s looks like it’s a 47rh. Can anyone confirm for me?
What a cool project! Yes if it's from a 94 it will be 47rh. All hydraulically controlled except for the overdrive and tc control, which if you have the ecm for the engine, I think it can tie into that for overdrive control, otherwise you can make or buy a pressure switch that will lock /unlock tc and overdrive based on your speed, can also do manual switches for those two functions if you desire, pretty much endless possibilities. I found this article that talks about that concept a little more

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What a cool project! Yes if it's from a 94 it will be 47rh.

Dang! Did a bunch of measurements yesterday just to see if the rh was usable but no go! The factory patrol manual is 680mm long from bellhousing to transfer mating surfaces and from looking around the re is 680mm from bellhousing to transfer. The rh Is an extra 110mm to longwhich means the transfer will be pushed back into the chassis crossmember after adding on the adapter plate and I really don’t feel like doing chassis mods.

I have contacted the company that supplied it and they are working with me to correct the issue. So fingers crossed we can sort it out quickly.
 

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Well howdy from down under.

heads up if you have no clue what I’m on about just search google and throw Australia at the end or ask me. I’m more than happy to explain. I am a qualified mechanic by trade and can never get enough of cars.

I have myself a little project going on at the moment, me and my wife (beautiful woman she is loves cars as much as I do and probably spends more on hers that I do on mine :LOL:) are undertaking this with the ideas of getting it on the road and done under $15k aud here is the rundown.

We already own a 2004 Nissan patrol with a zd30 3.0L (known as the grenade) in-line 4 turbo diesel with a 5 speed manual Australian delivered that does 1-60mph in about 2 years and 3 engines. It has 420000km or 260000m on it and the zd30 is lucky to make it past 150000km/93000m, we want to go touring Australia and want reliability so it’s gotta go.
View attachment 909714
View attachment 909715
View attachment 909718

The patrol is a great car to drive tour and 4wd in they are big in Europe, Middle East and down here they came with a few engine combos but they each have there own issues. If you really love the car you will usually end up buying or converting it to the td42 4.2L turbo diesel (known as the kettle). I was not to keen on throwing that in as they are know to get hot very easy hence the name, or snap cranks. Plus the engines cost around $6000aud for one in decent shape with all the ancillary’s in factory form and to even get to 200hp is $5000+ The amount of work swapping one of them in is about the same as anything because you have to cut the engine mount brackets off the chassis and weld on new ones.

Now the aftermarket support for these cars is just amazing. Seriously you think of it someone Has can or will make it.

I was looking at other option for a swap eg. Td42, ls1/2, duramax or the mighty barra but landed on the 6bt after I learnt about them and there straight up bul****t power reliability and how much of an amazing engine they just are.

So since the end of last year I have been in full recon mode searching and learning about them. I ended up getting a 1996 12v 215hp engine from a ram 3500 from a company called texstar for a pretty nice price compared as to what they sell over here in Australia ($7000aud+). When it rocked up I quickly shot down to the freight company and jammed it in my trailer and unloaded it at home. So my first instinct is give it a good look over and see what I’ve got and get it started on the pallet. what I found was it has arp headstuds, 4K governor springs, emotor USA hx35 turbo with the wastegate wired shut:eek:, timing bumped up to 16 degrees and a few missing bits and pieces. Nothing that will stop me from getting it running. So I borrowed a flex plate from a connection I had made through some pages for the conversion I’m doing on Facebook. Hooked up some jumper leads from my battery and got a very slow crank. Hmm ok 2 Batterys and 2 leads, same slow crank. Ended up having to buy a roll of 00 guage wire and make my own leads with battery clamps and run it straight to the starter just to get it cranking to Re-bleed injectors and get it to kick. But she ran, And she ran good. Next to no blow by and no bad noises, onto the next step strip, asses, refresh, paint and order all the bits.
View attachment 909704
View attachment 909705
View attachment 909708
View attachment 909706

Gearbox options for these are pretty few. You can buy an adapter kit off the shelf and bolt it up to use the factory 5 speed manual. Only issue is once your at 300/350hp they shred the gears and your up for a new box. You can go Allison 1000 or 4l80 with the cost of $10kaud Upwards is a big no. You can run a Nissan/jatco re4 auto but you have to spend some coin to make them take the torque. So only real option is factory Dodge box. So I got myself a 1994 47re from a p pump with the Pcm and wiring harness to go with it.
View attachment 909707

You wouldn’t believe it but someone actually makes an adapter plate to go from 47re to factory transfer case. So that’s the go for me and they are only an hours drive! :D He also happened to have a hx35w for cheap so I grabbed that.

Engine mounts are easy plenty of people make the kits for them and they are readily available.

So that’s the major bits done and out of the way. Onto the more Cummins specific side of things.

As the engine sits it is now stripped to long block with the oil filter housing and front cover still on. I need to get a gasket kit so I can replace every gasket I can see so I don’t have to worry about leaks, and I need to get some new injectors as they are mismatched and the injector line seats are all damaged or falling apart.
View attachment 909716
View attachment 909717

My plans are to send the pump of get it cleaned and checked so it’s 100%, paint and clean what needs to be cleaned and start to reassemble and get it ready to go in.

A few questions I have is what are your opinions on Power Driven Diesel and there products I want to buy there 47re auto kit and afc live and a bunch of other stuff but want to make sure I’m spending it on good gear.

Next is does anyone have the service specs and tolerances for a p-pump while getting serviced on a Bosch test bench.

next is I aim to run around 300hp and not one more. What will the auto need to hold that power I have read that it’s pretty basic but I do not mind stepping over budget for the right gear, same for the engine I have read that the 4K gsk some afc mods and an afc live will get me there with the hx35w. But I have read that you should do 60lb springs. Is the absolutely essential or can I get away with the hardened retainers?

Next is coolant bypass kits. When do they become necessary? There is next to no room between the firewall to fit them when in the car so I was wondering if there is another way around this like using the rear coolant sender port down the back as a bypass and tee the sensor in line?

I think that’s about it for now looking forward to hearing from everyone!
Thanks for making it this far if you did read all the way!
Hello. I have a y61 gu with a 6bt already. It's a 5 speed manual. Got my hands on a 47rh and I'm interested in the 47rh to patrol transfer case adapter. Can you please give me the info of the company who makes it?

Thanks
 

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03 superduty,12v 215 p pump,zf6,he351
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how this project going
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hello. I have a y61 gu with a 6bt already. It's a 5 speed manual. Got my hands on a 47rh and I'm interested in the 47rh to patrol transfer case adapter. Can you please give me the info of the company who makes it?

Thanks
Hey rolo. Seen you around in the 6bt patrol page on Facebook. Few places make them. Ramit conversion and C.E.M both in Australia. I know your over in Costa Rica.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
how this project going
Ran into a major issue.

I was gearing up to clean it and paint the block, decided to pull the timing cover and replace the gaskets so I got the rocker covers off, de-adjusted the rockers, pulled the circlips, slipped the rockers to the side and found this
929418

Red rtv and metal shavings in the journals. In every one.

Took the tapper cover off, pulled the pushrods out , pulled the lifters up, zip tied them in place, undid the retainer for the cam and pulled the cam out and found this
929420

Nearly every second lobe had pitting or the tops starting to be worn away.

at this point I decided I was going to keep going until I stopped finding issues. Heads up I didn’t stop.

Pulled the head, found .6mm lip on #6 bore.
929421
929422

At this point I decided it’s going to be rebuilt. Striped the block to the rotating assembly.
929424

When I took the sump off I found another surprise.
929425

929426

all bits are magnetic, checked over the pistons and rods could not find where it came from.

So I called Cummins Brisbane, they use hm gem engines so I took the bottom end and head to them to be redone. They inspected it and confirmed the engine had been rebuilt before, this time around it would require 6 sleeves and new pistons. Rods and crank all good. The head failed leak test and a crack was found from the valve through to the port on the exhaust side and needs a new head. This is where it is now.

$3500 in block repairs and I’m waiting on a new head to arrive so I can get that all happening.

I have decided to put a Hamilton cam package in it (cam, lifters, pushrods, springs, retainers and valves) because why not I’m already here.

I’m thinking of getting the marine big bowl pistons but I’m not sure if anyone could give me advice on what would be best I would love it.

the reason I’m leaning to them is more timing and power.

So this is where I am now and I will do a photo dump later when I get home from work of some more stuff from pulling it down.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As promised here is the photo dump.
This was how I started on the weekend of stripping majority already done.
929631

dragged it outside with the winch.
929632

Got it all covered up ready for cleaning.
929633

This was after we decided to pull the cam.
929634

On its way out.
929635

Some of the wear on the lobes.
929637
929638

I wanted to put the engine on a stand so I could work on it easier and this is the only way I could do it without my crane at the shop. Mate of mine James supervising, don’t worry he got his hands dirty and have he some help getting the head studs loose.
929639

It went on but I didn’t trust the old stand so put it back on the pallet until I got the head off.
929640

Nuts off ready to lift off.
929642
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Pulled the sump to check bearings for issues. No concern with them all genuine standard size.
929644

Pistons were all standard.
929646

Pulled all the freeze plugs.
929647

Got it stripped to block and rotating assembly and that’s how I sent it away.
929648

It was at this point I went looking for the cam retainer in the sump and found all the metal.
929649
 

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Pulled the sump to check bearings for issues. No concern with them all genuine standard size. View attachment 929644
Pistons were all standard. View attachment 929646
Pulled all the freeze plugs. View attachment 929647
Got it stripped to block and rotating assembly and that’s how I sent it away. View attachment 929648
It was at this point I went looking for the cam retainer in the sump and found all the metal.
View attachment 929649
holy heck...

Thats a shame mate but atleast you found the problems now not in the middle of no where wheeling. Itll be an absolute beast when its finished mate. Cant wait to see the final product.

I'm feeling your pain with problems still getting the bloody f250 of mine engineered as cops in bathurst nsw suck balls at the moment. Spent all weekend up Wauchope working on the truck getting it ready for engineering. Will be LR licence most likely now so truck licence it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
holy heck...

Thats a shame mate but atleast you found the problems now not in the middle of no where wheeling. Itll be an absolute beast when its finished mate. Cant wait to see the final product.

I'm feeling your pain with problems still getting the bloody f250 of mine engineered as cops in bathurst nsw suck balls at the moment. Spent all weekend up Wauchope working on the truck getting it ready for engineering. Will be LR licence most likely now so truck licence it is.
Yeah glad I found it now!
Trust me I’m keen to see it when all done and can’t wait for the first drive!

I swear I have seen your around before! On the Sau forums, when did you jump ship from skylines?
 

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Yeah glad I found it now!
Trust me I’m keen to see it when all done and can’t wait for the first drive!

I swear I have seen your around before! On the Sau forums, when did you jump ship from skylines?

100% youll love it mate.

yeah mate jumped shipped years ago. had r32 gtr when i wa 19. kicking myself its sold. Id be making money on that car instead of losing lol. you still got a skyline?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
100% youll love it mate.

yeah mate jumped shipped years ago. had r32 gtr when i wa 19. kicking myself its sold. Id be making money on that car instead of losing lol. you still got a skyline?
Nah I sold mine about 2 years ago for a mate to put the driveline into a s14, was rb25 gtx3076 gen 2 520hp e85 22psi street weapon now it’s same setup in a caged s14 for street grudge matches and strip work
 
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