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So really just making this post to document my progress and to hopefully help others as I finish this up. Couple months ago while taking a road trip my common rail started shaking as I pulled into a little town in the middle of no where. Whole underside and sides of the truck were covered in oil and the oil cap hit the hood when I took it off. I didn't have a hole in the block and the oil(diesel) level was over the full line. So once I trailered her home I started buying parts for a swap.
 

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The new to me 93 twelve valve. Since she was out I did the dowel pin fix and tightened all the case bolts with loctite. These were all hand tight and probably would've wrecked this motor before the dowel pin. I also changed the oil pan gasket and front/rear main seals, ve pump seal and put a billet tappet cover on since they were all leaking a bit of oil. I also did a fuel pin kit and 3200 governor spring too.
 

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So on to parts you'll need to pull this off. Transmission adapter. The first gen is tiny. I'm going on to a nv5600 so I had to source a second gen adapter plate and starter spacer. The third gen starter will bolt up fine to this and it's less electronics to replace. The third gen plate has different bolt pattern and will not work. This was my method of changing the rear main, worked like a champ with a screw and hammer.
 

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I'm using my he351 from the common rail with a third gen manifold. You don't need to port anything. The circle holes cover the square 12 valve holes completely. I did this so I wouldn't have to modify my exhaust, air box or after cooler. To pull this off you need the oil adapter from the old turbo to screw onto the he. The first gen supply line can be flipped and used and will barely clear the manifold. Use the flex oil drain from the common rail or better yet if you pull the pan, put on an after market drain so it's a vertical drop. You can spin the drain on the twelve valve to make a sloped run with a small pipe wrench and use the stock adapter. 1002191216_HDR_1570506462463.jpg
 

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Next up would be motor mounts. The common rail has multiple mounts like a storm block supposedly does. The twelve valve mounts are forward and you need to move one space back so you need adapter plates and to notch your frame mounts to account for the space with the plates. I used a YouTube series where the guy covers most of the swap. Essentially you need a 1/4x4x12 piece of plate steel. The plate needs six holes, the front two are bolted into the block, the middle set is the mount and the rear you have to insert nuts into the plate and weld them in then grind them fairly flush and use short bolts. If you have a belt sander and a drill, you can run a bolt into the drill with the nuts on it, spin the drill while the sander is running and make perfect circles. I then made some flat spots so I could get my weld down into the meat of the plate.
 

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The a.c. compressor will bolt up from the common rail onto the twelve valve so the stock lines will work. You'll need a late 24 valve alternator, the plugs match the common rail connectors and it'll mount to the first gen. To make the computer, a.c. tach and alternator work, you'll need a 60 minus two tone ring and the common rail crank sensor. I tried to get one from destroked but they would never call me back about getting just the plate but I found the common rail tone ring will bolt to the front of the twelve valve dampner it you use longer bolts and spacers. You'll also need to fab a bracket for the crank sensor. I'll have to add a picture off that later. Finding higher grade longer bolts is a challenge locally, you'll need m12x1.25x50 mm bolts and 16mm worth of spacers or washers.
* added a picture off the crank bracket. I tried to mount out higher originally but the fan contacted it. I drive through some deep snow drifts so I didn't want to mount it on the under side
 

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Adapting the water sensor. The engine my truck came out of was an auto and they have a sensor for the transmission overdrive. This is the same plug as the common rail, only bad side is its on the wrong side of the block as the harness you'll be re using. If you want to use the common rail sensor, you need a 1/2 npt to m14x1.5 adapter and there's a few places to put it in. Adapting the oil pressure you'll be going from an 1/8 npt to m14x1.5mm and you have to use the common rail sensor here. I used an o ring to keep this leak free and to mount tighter to the block. When you delete the auto cooler, you'll need a plug or you can mount the water temp sensor in this spot.
 

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I just got the engine stabbed tonight so I'll get to figure a few things out tomorrow. The common rail uses drive by wire but it uses a cable to a box under the battery. It looks like this will hook into the ve perfectly but I'll find out tomorrow. The common rail power steering line will bolt to the twelve valve steering pump and looks like it'll be the right bend to work. You'll need to go from 5/8 to 1/2 on the drain side, ace hardware fittings work great for that. *update the stock cable does hook into the ve pump. Got to mess with a better mounting solution though. The stock power steering supply line hooks perfectly into the brake booster *
 

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Fuel system notes. I had a walbro system and 1/2" lines on my truck. Good thing, the fittings are the same size for the different years and I'm pretty sure the return line will hook up and the wif sensor as well. Bad side, the walbro puts out way too much pressure unless you regulate it below 15psi. I could never keep mine from spiking up pretty high so I'm deleting it and running a hvlp mechanical pump. I have it plumbed so I can still use the stock pump by putting the relay in if I need to use it and closing some valves. The ve uses a seal that will blow and flood the motor with diesel above 20 ish psi. I did the loctite mod when I changed the seal for some peace of mind. *update, the stock return line is the same connector size!*
 

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Love your build BUT using the crappy 3rd gen exh manifold , your 12valve exh note won't sound like a 12 valve .
 

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I was a little concerned on how it would sound. Instead of using my old stock manifold, I'm using an after market that actually divides the cylinders equally like the first gen kinda. Reading reviews and watching YouTube videos, it's deeper sounding than the stock piece. But really I'm using it so I don't have to modify my new exhaust and so I can keep the factory intake.
 
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Got a lot done today. Found out a second gen intake horn will only fit with some grinding but I need to find a better solution. I might try my third gen horn but I would rather not. Torqued the motor mounts down. Mounted the starter. Mounted the turbo. Installed new 5x14 vco injectors from hungry diesel. Installed power steering. Hooked up the fuel lines. Hooked up the throttle cable. I just have to mount the computer and hook into the sensors now and put the front end back together. I work the next 14 days unless we get blown out from the blizzard coming through so updates might be thin.

Does anyone know of an after market intake with a better bend for clearance? I might have to weld up my own, I think I'm going to have to mod the intercooler piping to fit the different location possibly. It's easier to order stuff now instead of finding out later on my days off. I travel for work and the truck is an hour away at my friends place.
 

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So got the computer mounted today and most of the sensors plugged in. Depending on where you mount your computer, you will have to extend some sensor wires. The passenger side accessories all come off one wire bundle but the thermostat had to be extended out a foot or so. The oil, wif and fuel heater will have to be extended and new pigtails found for the wif and heater unfortunately. I'll have to find those somewhere soon. The rest of the sensors got sealed and fit neatly by the frame.

The upper heater hose doesn't fit. The 93 is too short and the common rail bends are wrong. However, you can mate the two together in the middle. I ordered some parts to do this and will update this later.

The intake horn tube from the intercooler also is wrong. I figured this would be the case since the intake is almost divided on the first gen and fairly forward on the common rail. I ordered a 30 degree bend and will cut the metal tube when they get here.

I test cranked the truck and if the fuel lines were bled and I had power to the fuel shut off solenoid, she would've fired right up!
 

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would a 3rd gen intake elbow bolt up to the plenum? Maybe that is a possible solution to the intake issue... Or is the elbow located farther back on the plenum?
 

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The third gen will bolt up, I forgot to take it to see where it would land in relation to the brake reservoir though. The intake does move back farther on the plenum, it's almost in the middle.
 

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Love the idea, i've been investigating p-pumping my 03. I think I'm just gonna sell it and get what I want
 

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Love the idea, i've been investigating p-pumping my 03. I think I'm just gonna sell it and get what I want
That'd be a pretty cool swap. I've never looked into it but getting rid of the common rail without having to actually do an engine swap would be sweet!
 

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Somehow got another day off of work after the snow storm. You'll need a 1.75" stainless coupler to join the upper radiator hoses. I didn't work on the Inter cooler piping, I wanted to get the truck started instead. I deleted my walbro and bypass line but left the course filter head. After priming the stock filter we tried to start it with the injector lines cracked but they barely spurted fuel. One time it tried to start and sent a geyser of fuel but wouldn't start after killing it to tighten the lines. It sounded healthy running for a few seconds though.
 

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Got her started! For whatever reason the fss won't allow fuel to flow. Put on a new fss, same thing. I've got 12 volts to it but I guess it'll be a pull cable for now 😑 The tach is idling erratically but that seems to be the only issue. I've got to fiddle with the crank sensor, I think it's picking up the factory grooves. Bled the power steering and she's turning and the brakes work. Sweet sweet progress and she sounds pretty wicked too!
 

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Got her started! For whatever reason the fss won't allow fuel to flow. Put on a new fss, same thing. I've got 12 volts to it but I guess it'll be a pull cable for now 😑 The tach is idling erratically but that seems to be the only issue. I've got to fiddle with the crank sensor, I think it's picking up the factory grooves. Bled the power steering and she's turning and the brakes work. Sweet sweet progress and she sounds pretty wicked too!


Does the fss need one 12v trigger and one larger 12v wirefor hold?


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