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12 valve in my truck?

1211 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  ncsucarjock88
Hey everyone, so I have an 01 dually 6 speed Laramie. Awesome truck and not many kms on it so I don't want to get rid of it... I bought this truck cheap cause a man had blown the motor and put a low km 99 motor in, long story short I have been trying to do the impossible of making an SO motor work in a HO truck... I'm not winning, close, but can't win. Anyway, I had a 12 valve and I loved that truck, it was a tank. I want the easy and the nice power back again. So how hard will it be to put a 12 valve in? I don't care if my tach doesn't work and whatever I'm not that finicky. I just want it to run and be nice and work. Can anyone that has done this give me the run down on what to do.
And no I really don't want to p-pump my 24 valve.. But let me know what all of you think!
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Why don't you want to p-pump your 24v? It would be much simpler to do so?

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Well I just thought it would be really different to have a 12 valve in an 01 truck. And honestly I thought that would be easier than putting on a p-pump. I dunno, what all am I looking at for a p-pump swap?
What problems with the SO/HO swap? I have an HO pump on my SO & no problems. Is it a build year difference with crank & cam sensor?

Yah it's the whole thing of trying to get the different motors to work like another. I have changed my cam and cam gear to an 01, changed my gear case to the 01 gear case to relocate the sensor, have an 01 injection pump, original 01 ECM, 01 wiring harness and a couple other things and just nothing will work. It idles awesome, but once you give it throttle it just rolls out blue unburned fuel smoke. Truck has no power when you drive it. So finally after all this messing around I decided to say screw it and 12 valve it. But now I'm considering p-pump conversion as well.. I was worried at first that changing to a p-pump may still my fix it and then I thought again and figured yah of course it will, a p-pump injects proper no matter what.
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Do you have any codes and whats your fuel psi?
I got a whole list of codes. Don't have them on me right now but some were about the MAP sensor voltage being low, and an engine over speed code and quite a few other things. And fuel pressure is good.
Your getting blue smoke?? Generally blue is oil? White smoke is fuel? But if your over fueling it could cause you to be burning oil? You got any serious amount of blow by?

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Well it's whiteish-blue. Truck doesn't burn a drop of oil though. No anti-freeze either. Good solid engine that way. Absolutely no blow by either. Just can't get something to work here...
first off, slow down... find out what all the codes are, and then post them up here. AFAIK, there's not much that has to be done to swap HO to SO. yes, you do have the cam sensor thing, but sounds like you've remedied that. Work on the easy stuff. May be as simple as a couple of connectors where the pins are making connection.
I have codes
0216: fuel injection pump timing malfunction
0380: intake air heater control circuit #1
0382: intake air heater control circuit #2
0370: timing reference high resolution signal "A"
0215: unknown?
0219: engine over speed
1689: no communication between injection pump and ECM
0237: turbocharger boost pressure sensor low

Also when I put my truck back together last night I tried to take it for a drive and it went into what I'm assuming is limp mode, it wouldn't pass 1500 rpm and it just poured out white smoke. But right before we tried to drive it we were revving it and holding different rpm levels in the shop and it was almost clearing up like we had made it work but then it did that...
Sounds like the injection pump has failed
Most would think that except that we have tried different injection pumps on it and their all the same... Also tried different ECMs and all that fun stuff.. Still nothing. And does anyone know what code 0215 is?
0215 is the fuel injection pump control circuit
Dtc code=#215 & #237

Listen, I think you have an electrical issue - but - I wanna verify that. The injection pump that you say you swapped - and the ECM - were they on known, running properly, trucks - and if so - when you swapped them back, did those trucks continue to function without issue.

I think more than likely you have a connection somewhere that isn't making good connection, or you've got some chafed wires, or something. Too many codes, too many things are pointing to a bad VP44 (or several) or a bad electrical connection.
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