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Discussion Starter #1
Been lurking for a while. Excited to post my own build and contribute to the forum. While these builds are similar I feel like they are different in many ways. I have yet to see a build done exactly the way I hope to do mine hopefully this helps someone that is doing something similar.
The truck is an 06 super duty with a seized 6.0 in it. Motor is a 94 p pump 12v.
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the motor was pretty rough.. it sat outside for about 2 yrs with no covering. Wanting a clean slate I took it apart to the heads, was happy to see nice clean cylinders and crosshatching. I don’t have a lot of pictures of the motor, but I needed up doing a lot to it.

The motor came with an OEM seal kit so I did literally every seal on the entire motor including front and rear mains. I also advanced the timing 3 degrees, deleted the grid heater, #10 fuel plate, put in 4K gov springs and 60lb valve springs and that’s about it. I would have loved to spend more time making it look pretty but I have a 10 month old and Im lucky to be able to work on it as much as I do.
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Donor truck
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Nice DCS adapter conversion plate and flex plate.
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Tranmission got moved back to 5.9 position in frame trans is ready to accept bench tested motor. Will keep posting as this build continues.
 

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Motor is actually in.. however I’m an idiot and may have screwed Something up. See my earlier post today for details.
 

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I take it your using the Fords auto trans? So what is your problem?
 

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I'll be watching. I'm doing the same thing with a 93 VE engine and an 04 F350.
Your truck looks really nice !
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For simplicity (as suggested) I’ll bring up my issue that I had made a separate thread for. Basically... I fully installed my 5r110 to the 12v without lining up the TC flex plate holes. Nothing appears damaged. I pulled the motor and inspected everything, re-pulled and installed the TC as well. My main concern is that I damaged something. Pressing all of that together couldn’t have been good. The flex plate is ok, I’m hoping the pump gear in the trans is not damaged. Anyone made this mistake!? Or know how to functionally test the pump gear?
At this point. The motor is installed.. properly. The TC is Attached to the flywheel. I’m planning on letting it ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
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6.0 wiring harness with everything I don’t need depinned.
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Everything I didn’t end up needing... which was a lot ha. Kept the ECT EOP MAP alternator and everything for the stock a/c comp which I plan on using. I left the EOT but I’m not sure if I’ll use it or not. Also left some key power hot wires in to operate the fuel shut off and for the swap helper I plan on using.
 

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Stock manifold and turbo didn’t fit. Gonna have to go after market with the manifold. weird cause I’ve seen builds where the stock manifold and turbo fit.
 

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I used a industrial 12v manifold, also some people port match a 3rd gen manifold to the 12v rectangular port, if you go that route use a freightliner 24v manifold. They locate the turbo in the same place as a 3rd gen but are divided manifold with 1,2,3 in one volute and 4,5,6 in the other.
 

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I used a industrial 12v manifold, also some people port match a 3rd gen manifold to the 12v rectangular port, if you go that route use a freightliner 24v manifold. They locate the turbo in the same place as a 3rd gen but are divided manifold with 1,2,3 in one volute and 4,5,6 in the other.
I’ve looked around. The industrial ones are hard to find. I might just bite the bullet and go with the dps fummins.. it is the aftermarket version of the industrial and 24v manifold but with the rectangular ports.
 

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Ok so this will be all about fuel supply.. note. I have no clue if this will work. I’m taking the actual pump out of the ford 6.0 fuel pump housing and retaining the housing. The mech lift pump will (hopefully) pull fuel through the housing, then through the mech pump then through the the stock 12valve filter and to the pump. I did this cause I wanted to retain the water in fuel sensors and fuel heater, with the added bonus of adding an additional filter. Here’s how I did it
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thiS is the pump side of the pump housing. Pretty simple to remove. As faras I can tell removal of the pump should have no I’ll effects on the movement of fuel through the housing
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pump removed o ringed pump cap re placed
 

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Discussion Starter #13
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Here is the pump housing for Reference
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here are the stock hoses that come from the pump to the motor. I removed the steel lines that connect.. cut them filed and cleaned them then reinstalled. Ones supply ones return
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then I took a 3/8in line and slid it on the supply and 1/4 in line to the return. Best part is it cost me nothing but time. Hopefully it works!
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for reference
 

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Moving on to electrical. Was planning on doing the swap helper tach signal converter vs the tone wheel. I want to get the best signal possible because I’ve read that the auto trans relies heavily on crank and cam signal. Any opinion either way? Swap helper is $350 tone wheel is $35.. I usually subscribe to get what you pay for but I’ve read a lot of people who have done the tone wheel with good success.. but not sure How much they were relying on it.. as in they might just need it so the gauge and a/c work. Thoughts?
 

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Thanks man! Where are you at in your swap?
I just started my engine yesterday. It only had 110k on it but the pump was leaking bad. I put head studs and all new gaskets in it. I need to figure out how exactly I should lengthen the transmission lines to fit over the cross member. I'm hoping my swap will start moving along better once the engine is in the truck. I've been reading and watching videos 24-7 and still feel I have a lot to learn.

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I just started my engine yesterday. It only had 110k on it but the pump was leaking bad. I put head studs and all new gaskets in it. I need to figure out how exactly I should lengthen the transmission lines to fit over the cross member. I'm hoping my swap will start moving along better once the engine is in the truck. I've been reading and watching videos 24-7 and still feel I have a lot to learn.
Yeah man I’m in the same boat. I would suggest to try and not get in a rush to get the motor in. Try and get everything you can get done while the motor is out it will make things a lot easier. I need to lengthen my trans lines as well but the trans filter housing looks like it might hit the a/c comp. so I’m gonna wait to install the compressor before I mess with the lines.
wher Was your pump leaking from?
 

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Not sure. I guess the big oring or what's it is. I just wanted to get it sealed up but ended up getting it rebuilt by a bosch dealer. I had it at a shade tree mechanic buddies shop for 2 months and finally got tired of waiting . The only bad thing is , the shop built it to factory specs. They wouldn't warranty it with my HD fuel pin and gov spring. So I'm going to have to wait a little while to put those in. I'm excited to see how the VE engine will.end up running. I'm used to my p pump 97.
 

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Not sure. I guess the big oring or what's it is. I just wanted to get it sealed up but ended up getting it rebuilt by a bosch dealer. I had it at a shade tree mechanic buddies shop for 2 months and finally got tired of waiting . The only bad thing is , the shop built it to factory specs. They wouldn't warranty it with my HD fuel pin and gov spring. So I'm going to have to wait a little while to put those in. I'm excited to see how the VE engine will.end up running. I'm used to my p pump 97.
I like my VE pumped 12v much more then my P7100 12v, it's so much easier to tune. Make sure to tab the KDP pin and tighten the inside timing case bolts.
 

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Cool. I don't remember ever riding in a VE truck. I did do the kdp and tighten the cover bolts. I'm going to try a turbo off a c7 cat. We ran the engine Sunday and it felt very responsive to me compared to my 97.


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