Joined
·
1,030 Posts
So I decided that I didn't want to screw with installing an after-market deck on this truck but I do really miss my backup camera from the Tundra. That said, I set out to find a set up that retained the factory look but didn't break the bank. Ended up going with a flush mount camera and a 6" LCD screen got both from Amazon for ~$100. It's not quite on par with the Tundra set up but it'll work. There aren't many installation pics as I was in a bit of a hurry. Pretty straight forward though with lots of Dremel work. Here's a summary:
Parts list
-6" LCD screen
-flush-mount camera
-smallish toggle switch from Radio Shack (sorry no linky)
-variety of installation stuff like wire, tape, zip-ties, soldering supplies, etc.
![]()
I started by removing the tailgate handle and trimming off all excess plastic from the backside where the camera is to mount. After that was done I used the Dremel to shape an access hole to fit the camera. Because the camera sits at a fairly steep angle the hole ended up needing to be rather oblong.
Next I proceeded to modify the mounting sleeves provided with the camera to allow for the additional angle needed to "see" the back of the bumper. Without this modification the camera only gets to about 8" from the rear bumper. I like to park close so... Little Rustoleum to turn everything black and we're in business.
![]()
![]()
![]()
The power and video wires were routed to the cab along the frame rail and into the cab via a small plastic knockout located under the carpet in underseat storage area. This was modded into a make-shift grommet so I didn't have to drill holes through any sheet metal.
To mount the screen I removed the sun visor, popped out the existing mirror and used the Dremel to clear out enough space for the screen to fit. I got lazy with the wiring and just drilled a hole and fitted a grommet into the visor right above where the screen mounted. This will rarely be seen so its fine for me. Epoxy was then used to fix the screen in place.
mirror removed
![]()
mock-up
![]()
Power for both the screen and camera is obtained by tapping the positive lead for the ACC 12V outlet. This tap was routed to a small toggle switch that I fitted into one of the blanks available next to the inverter power control switch. Using this set up allows me to turn the camera/monitor on or off at will. The dash was easy to get into. There are 3 hex head screws that need to be removed. One is located behind a plastic benzel surrounding the 110V outlet, the other two are located under the "pencil holder" above the stereo. Just pop the small insert out and they are readily visible. After these three screws are removed the assembly pulls straight out. The blanks turned out to be a PITA. It seems the whole bank of switches are run into a single board. This leaves very little room to work with behind the blanks hence the use of the crappy little toggle. Hard to describe, should have snagged some pic's. Maybe after I get back from DC if anyone is really interested.
![]()
So thats about it. Here's the finished product:
Visor up
![]()
Visor down, power off
![]()
Power on
![]()
Close-up
![]()
Parts list
-6" LCD screen
-variety of installation stuff like wire, tape, zip-ties, soldering supplies, etc.
I started by removing the tailgate handle and trimming off all excess plastic from the backside where the camera is to mount. After that was done I used the Dremel to shape an access hole to fit the camera. Because the camera sits at a fairly steep angle the hole ended up needing to be rather oblong.
Next I proceeded to modify the mounting sleeves provided with the camera to allow for the additional angle needed to "see" the back of the bumper. Without this modification the camera only gets to about 8" from the rear bumper. I like to park close so... Little Rustoleum to turn everything black and we're in business.
The power and video wires were routed to the cab along the frame rail and into the cab via a small plastic knockout located under the carpet in underseat storage area. This was modded into a make-shift grommet so I didn't have to drill holes through any sheet metal.
To mount the screen I removed the sun visor, popped out the existing mirror and used the Dremel to clear out enough space for the screen to fit. I got lazy with the wiring and just drilled a hole and fitted a grommet into the visor right above where the screen mounted. This will rarely be seen so its fine for me. Epoxy was then used to fix the screen in place.
mirror removed
mock-up
Power for both the screen and camera is obtained by tapping the positive lead for the ACC 12V outlet. This tap was routed to a small toggle switch that I fitted into one of the blanks available next to the inverter power control switch. Using this set up allows me to turn the camera/monitor on or off at will. The dash was easy to get into. There are 3 hex head screws that need to be removed. One is located behind a plastic benzel surrounding the 110V outlet, the other two are located under the "pencil holder" above the stereo. Just pop the small insert out and they are readily visible. After these three screws are removed the assembly pulls straight out. The blanks turned out to be a PITA. It seems the whole bank of switches are run into a single board. This leaves very little room to work with behind the blanks hence the use of the crappy little toggle. Hard to describe, should have snagged some pic's. Maybe after I get back from DC if anyone is really interested.
So thats about it. Here's the finished product:
Visor up
Visor down, power off
Power on
Close-up
