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Discussion Starter #1
All the how-to's on here for a free spin hub installation seem to be for trucks older than 2008. With a Spyntec kit, there are important differences. Their printed instructions that come with the kit, as well as the website, leave a lot to be desired. The parts diagrams are inaccurate and not very clear. They really need to do some editing. There are fewer parts used or needed on the 2009-up kits, so the diagrams dont match.
On the older trucks, you are furnished a shim kit for the u-joints if you have AAM axles. The instructions don't say what years used the AAM axle. That would be 2003 and newer. No shim kit is furnished with the 2009 and newer kits, the outer stub axle yoke is bigger. The yokes and all other parts in the kits are not interchangeable. Found out the hard way when they sent me the wrong year of kit by mistake. If you order a kit, CHECK YOUR RECEIPT AND MARKINGS ON THE BOXES BEFORE GETTING STARTED TO MAKE SURE YOU GOT THE RIGHT KIT!!!!
On the older kits, you are instructed to cut 3/8" off the hub/spindle bolts. This is not required on the newer kits for 2009 and up. I had to drive 10 miles into town to use a press for the u-joints, and decided to also take advantage of their bench vise and shop air to cut off the bolts while I was there. I cut the bolts first (oops) then went on to do the u-joints, and discovered the new stub yoke was too small, so packed it all in and went home, and called Spyntec only to discover I had the wrong kit. I probably could use the cut down bolts anyway, but chose not to. So I ordered 4 new ones for a total of $73. An expensive lesson for me. NEVER ASSUME. ALWAYS CHECK EVERYTHING BEFORE STARTING ANYTHING. To their credit, Spyntec made it right, and shipped the replacement kit fast. The quality of the kit is very good, I have no regrets getting it. I hope this information helps others, I did a search on all this, but found nothing. Not even a video of the installation with newer kit, just the older.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So far I'm happy with SpynTec customer service and the visible quality of the product. I'm not knocking them at all, I would chose this kit again, and believe me, I looked at the others long and hard before deciding. I feel it's a better value for the money. My feeling is everyone makes mistakes, and I made a few here, too, so I wanted to share the info in order to make things easier for others. I'm not done with the install yet, still waiting on the hub bolts to arrive.
 

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I installed the spyn tec kit this past winter and could not be happier. I work at a body shop so got to buy the at dealer cost so was a real good deal. I like the two low when backing my gooseneck and fifth wheel. These may have helped mileage by a mile or so. Really a well made kit.
 

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Dynatrac's got a rebate program running if you purchase their hubs and/or bj's before 8/31. $200/hubs & $100 bj's. Mail-in. That's a break.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So, has anyone with an "09 or newer truck installed these hub kits? Any comments or advice? My intent for this thread was aimed towards '09 and up, because it seems no one with a newer truck has posted about doing it. There ARE differences in parts and install methods between the older and newer Spyntec kits.
 

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Id sure like to hear from those who have installed 2010 up Spyntec kit. I'm having a trusted wrench install mine next week and would like to pass along any experience tips. Have not read good things on here about the Spyntec instructions. Fail to understand why they have not been updated for the newer models.
 

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My truck is a 2012. The hardest parts of the job were getting the old unit bearing out of axle assembly and removing the u joints. I used a small press for u joints and it was a pain. I reused them as they only had 10000 miles on them. The hubs I used a dead blow hammer and large slide hammer to get them out. the quality of the spyn tech was great and for the price they are great. The only other thing I was worried about was lockouts sticking out to far. Drilled stock front center caps and used them and lockouts stick out 1 inch total past them so worked great. The hubs are mile marker stainless with life time warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The SpynTec instructions left out details about which way to face the seals when installing them. Also left out the part about packing the hubs in the space between bearings with grease. Maybe that's a "no-brainer" for old pros, but some confirmation for those with less experience on those issues would be nice. The instructions are also vague on proper tightening of spindle nuts and the amount of free spin versus endplay. i ended up simply backing mine off enough to get the hubs to spin freely. I haven't worked on manual hubs in over 30 years, so my memory fails me.
 

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How does it draw grease . It is stable to 550 degrees so it wont run. I just dont see how it could use any of it except what is in bearings. They need to be cleaned and packed every year any way.
 

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28. Pack the new wheel bearings with grease. Proper packing of the bearings is essential to bearing life and safety. Grease must thoroughly and completely fill the voids between each roller, especially underneath the roller cage. Do not just smear grease around the outside. This can easily be accomplished by hand or with a simple bearing packer and grease gun available at any auto parts store. If you are not sure how to pack a bearing by hand, Dynatrac can provide a one page guide written by Timken via Fax, Email, or USMail on request. Load the inner bearing (large) into the new hub.

WARNING: Properly packing the wheel bearings is essential to bearing life. Failure to properly lubricate a bearing can result in bearing failure, damage to other components, and risk of serious injury or death.

29. Prepare the large hub seal for installation by generously greasing all lips on the seal. See Illustration 3. This will prevent any damage to the sealing surfaces. Drive the hub seal into the back of the hub. The open side of the seal faces the inside of the hub.

30. Liberally grease the area inside the hub between the bearings, up to the inside diameter of the inner & outer bearings. Do not skimp on the grease, completely fill this area. There must be enough grease between the bearings so that centrifugal force does not pull grease away from the bearings into the center of the hub.

31. After fully packing with grease, install the new wheel hubs onto the spindles. Be careful not to damage the hub seal as it slides over the threaded end of the spindle. Push the hub onto the spindle until the inner bearing bottoms out. If it gets stuck part way, stop! Pull the hub off and try again, keeping the bearing straight as it slides onto the spindle. Push the outer bearing over the end of the spindle and into the open end of the hub. It must seat against the outer race in the wheel hub.

**The above is from my PDF copy of the Dynatrac installation instructions. If you look at the link I posted above, you will see that the shop I paid to do it failed to think it was necessary. Problems surfaced as a result. I did it myself this time.
 

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Be sure to generously lube the stub shaft bearings inside the spindle and re-lube them whenever you lube the wheel bearings. It's kind of a pain to get those bearings out and lube them correctly, but if they fail (mine did) you have to replace the stub shaft and press the U joint apart.
 

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How does it draw grease . It is stable to 550 degrees so it wont run. I just dont see how it could use any of it except what is in bearings. They need to be cleaned and packed every year any way.
Two mutually contacting, rolling surfaces will definitely pull grease into them when turning. Grease is actually a semi-solid liquid or a highly viscous liquid. That being said, go ahead and grease your bearings any way you want to...personally I did mine just according to the instructions that came with my DynaTrac kit that Mudman quoted above.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've done enough trailer and car wheel bearings in my lifetime to know that the open area in the hub needs to be packed with grease. SpynTec seems to assume the installing mechanic already knows stuff like that, including which way to face the seals. DynaTrac obviously makes no such assumptions about their customers, and furnishes a set of good instructions with their kit. Like seafish said, if you dispute this, go ahead and experiment on your own hubs if you want to, but I'm not going to.
 

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If there's a hole in NTG's schedule next week,my Dynatrac freespins,bj's and u-joints are going in.Can't wait!
 

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If there's a hole in NTG's schedule next week,my Dynatrac freespins,bj's and u-joints are going in.Can't wait!
I'm sure you'll like the Dynatrac ball joints. They drive nice and mine have lasted a long time, maybe 160,000 miles. If I had it to do over, I'd skip the free spin hub setup. Here's why: First I had a defective hub that Dynatrac replaced under warrantee. Then a bad stub shaft bearing that damaged the stub shaft and the new hub. Those were replaced by me at my cost. Now the wheel bearings are beginning to talk to me. Twice I was stranded in the mountains in a snow storm with no 4WD before I got it straightened out. Plus there was no increase in mileage that I noticed. It's a nice idea, and it makes the U joints last longer, but it's expensive and requires periodic maintenance that is not easy. I have used 2WD low, but only a couple of times, and 4WD low would have worked too.
 

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I've had the Spyntec kit on my truck for two years. No issues yet.
 
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