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Discussion Starter #1
I have another thread in the 2wd discussions but its dead here it is
03 2wd 2500 sagging front end and bottoming out w/pics
Heres the quick summary, went to a alignment shop and said I need a list of parts to be done before it can be aligned properly. Inner tie rods and lower ball joints for about 700 total.

Other info besides just getting it aligned, the truck is super bouncy and cant take a bump with speed for nothing before it bottoms out and I went under and the bump stops are missing. Also Im looking to change the front coilovers to stop sagging and it has about 180k miles and I honestly believe that it may be on its oem shocks.

Let me know what your suggestions are for parts such as bump stops (sumo springs or timbrens??) and coil springs, shocks I will be leaning towards the 4600. Please let me know if anything else needs to be done or what parts you recommend for ball joints and inner tie rods, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So just take it to a shop and get a quote then go from there?
 

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Not a lot of 2 wd posters here.
After getting the alignment settled.
WAG from me would be shocks, springs, and replace the bump stops, either of those you mention seems to have good reviews.
 
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The 3rd Gen 2wd front suspension is an excellent design. Dbl A-arms, rack and pinion steering.
The 2wd 2500 front and rear springs are quite light duty, lighter than the 4wd 2500's, especially if you hauling and towing regularily.

1st step is to jack up the front, check all the ball joints, tie rods, steering rack, sway bar end links, steering colum U-joint bushings.


The 2wd front coils are weak. Many years ago, I researched and ordered 2009 2wd 3500 Megacab dually front coil springs. When they showed up at the dealer, they were identical in every way as my 2500 front coils, returned them.

Application Guide (Search by Year, Make, Model) | SuperSprings® International, Inc. do make heavy duty front coils.
I don't recommend raising the front by much. I have lowered the front of my 2wd truck by 1 inch by trimming the stock coils.

The 2wd rear Pacbrake air bags work really well. I had them for several years before I lowered my truck even further.
I currently have the 2wd HD Timbrens in the rear but it makes for a rough ride on a lowered 2wd.

As far as I know, the only good quality 3rd Gen 2wd shocks are the yellow Bilsteins. I've had them for numerous years.
I don't recommend aftermarket front bumpstops. There is not enough room in there for them to work properly.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
The 3rd Gen 2wd front suspension is an excellent design. Dbl A-arms, rack and pinion steering.
The 2wd 2500 front and rear springs are quite light duty, lighter than the 4wd 2500's, especially if you hauling and towing regularily.

1st step is to jack up the front, check all the ball joints, tie rods, steering rack, sway bar end links, steering colum U-joint bushings.


The 2wd front coils are weak. Many years ago, I researched and ordered 2009 2wd 3500 Megacab dually front coil springs. When they showed up at the dealer, they were identical in every way as my 2500 front coils, returned them.

Application Guide (Search by Year, Make, Model) | SuperSprings® International, Inc. do make heavy duty front coils.
I don't recommend raising the front by much. I have lowered the front of my 2wd truck by 1 inch by trimming the stock coils.

The 2wd rear Pacbrake air bags work really well. I had them for several years before I lowered my truck even further.
I currently have the 2wd HD Timbrens in the rear but it makes for a rough ride on a lowered 2wd.

As far as I know, the only good quality 3rd Gen 2wd shocks are the yellow Bilsteins. I've had them for numerous years.
I don't recommend aftermarket front bumpstops. There is not enough room in there for them to work properly.
I was looking to get a pair of springs from sd trucks and it was a popular one that others have gotten here.... it says its for loaded front end trucks and I do have that bar on the front so it may not raise my front end by much I hope.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
913991

Front End
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The front end sag
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Drivers side suspension
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Another pic of drivers side
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Passengers side suspension
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Passenger side closeup
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Upper control arm I believe, the bushings look bad there.
It does look like the rack and pinion may be leaking but I did recently do a PS "flush" so its possibly not as bad like before.
 

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You can add a Daystar leveling kit for the front, 1", 1.5", or 2" (depending on how high you want your truck), new bump stops, new shocks. You may need new ball joints and bushings. If yours are bad, it is easier to buy the whole upper and lower control arm assemblies. If you go with the 2", be aware that you will need longer shocks, which are hard to find for lifted 2wd trucks, and alignment becomes an issue because the geometry with a 2" puck messes up the caster/camber. You will be able to get the correct toe, and camber, but caster will not be in tolerance. The best way to find out how much lift you want is to measure the pitch on the coil as it sits, then raise the truck with a floor jack until you get to the desired height, and measure the pitch again. The difference between the two pitches is how thick of puck you want to add.
 

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Spacers don't fix worn springs shocks or components.
Cummins weight/heat and overloading truck weakens low quality Mexican /Chinese spring metal.
Replace all the cracked worn rubber components, OEM is usually best unless going offroad.
Some times cheaper to find a local ma/pa spring shop get new springs/new shocks, buy the best shocks you can afford, based on normal loaded weight, timbrems or equivalent for occasional heavy loads.
Doing it yourself need to find a place to weigh truck properly front and rear, calculate weight and then buy springs with that weight in mind, good spring suppliers should know what works, and match your shocks to them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Spacers don't fix worn springs shocks or components.
Cummins weight/heat and overloading truck weakens low quality Mexican /Chinese spring metal.
Replace all the cracked worn rubber components, OEM is usually best unless going offroad.
Some times cheaper to find a local ma/pa spring shop get new springs/new shocks, buy the best shocks you can afford, based on normal loaded weight, timbrems or equivalent for occasional heavy loads.
Doing it yourself need to find a place to weigh truck properly front and rear, calculate weight and then buy springs with that weight in mind, good spring suppliers should know what works, and match your shocks to them.
I was looking to get the tuf truck TTC-1615 model springs since others here have used it on their 2wd, also I do have that front bar so it can technically add mote weight so it shouldnt raise my truck by 3 inches but maybe 2. Then I will be replacing the shocks with the bilistien 4600.
 

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IMO should buy USA made, a lot import junk out there.
X2 on China junk!

I just went through my 4 X 2, 2500 suspension in the past month. I replaced front and rear shocks. Front adjustable RANCHO RS999279, rear KYB KG5196 (Increased Handling/Performance) Gas-A-Just. Before the ride was really bouncy. The truck would bounce and move over a few inches when it hit an expansion joint in a curve. That is cured.

I tow a 28' enclosed car hauler, trailer hitch mounted. The trailer really works the rear shocks. I'll replace the KYBs as soon as it starts bouncing again. They are $40.00 a set at RockAuto.

Looking at your pictures, your front sway bar END links look like my old ones, worn out. I replaced mine with some China junk. They made a huge difference but are making a little noise after 600 miles, $15.00 per set. I ordered a new set of Moogs. Moog makes good stuff.

Also your sway bar bushings looked like mine. I replaced with aftermarket urethane bushings I found on Ebay. My bushings were oblong. The urethane is much stiffer than OEM.

The truck drives straight and firm again. Other than these parts, my front end is original, 230,000 miles.

GL
 
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I was looking to get a pair of springs from sd trucks and it was a popular one that others have gotten here.... it says its for loaded front end trucks and I do have that bar on the front so it may not raise my front end by much I hope.
The front sway bar is very important on my 4x2, 06 2500 for stability. You could make longer sway bar end links to raise the front. See my post below regarding your sway bar end links.

I also added a Big Wig rear sway bar. It helped a lot to keep the truck body over the wheels when I have a load in the bed. I had an engine shift around a corner, before the rear sway bar. It almost took me into a ditch. No more. LOL
 
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