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02 rear wheel seal problems

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I bought this truck about a year ago. I went to replacing brakes, bearings, fluids and such that probably were over due. I tore the rear hubs down and replaced the Ebrake shoes and found that the spindles were grooved where the seal had been riding. I searched for a fix at the time but apparently no speedi sleeve was made for these. One guy found one with the correct ID and cut the length down and made it work but made it sound more than I wanted to tackle. So I just put new seals and hoped they would work. Well they did for almost a year. Now one is leaking badly.
I got an idea but not sure if it will work so I thought I'd run it by the forum and see what y'all say. I went and looked up a seal for mine and a seal for a newer one. I chose an 06 just to b safe. They have the 2 piece seals that seat on bothe the hub and the spindle. Looked to b the right ID and OD but the newer seal had a lip on the OD the seated on the hub. Not sure if it will keep the seal from seating in fare bought to seat the bearings and not put the seal in a bind. What do y'all think. Or have any other ideas besides changing out the whole rear-end.

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I used to have the address (no longer) of a shop that welded up the grooved area on full floating axle spindles and then re-milled them to spec. IIRC they did this while the housing was still in place on OTR trucks but required light duty axles to be removed from the vehicle. Try some big rig shops.

You could also try JB Weld or something similar to get a smooth surface. Clean, fill, and sand to shape with fine emory cloth. I have done this on various seal surfaces but never on a high heat/high rpm seal surface.

Usually I smooth slight grooving with a little fine emory cloth and then get every version of the appropriate seal I can find through the various parts sources. Carefully mic the inner seal diameter of each of the brands and use the tightest one. DO NOT distort the seal with your calipers or you will get widely varying dimensions. Just slowly spread the calipers until they barely contact the inner surface. Repeat the process in several places to get a reliable reading. Pick the tightest seal.

You might even get lucky and find a dual-lipped seal in the aftermarket that would work.
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A quality machine shop can make and install (take them the axle) a speedy sleeve for a reasonable price. That will cure your problem for many, many years.
As long as a the seal does not go past the shoulder of the hub it rides on and hit the bearing it will not affect the bearing. The bearing seats against the hub not the seal Just buy a seal that is the same outside and inside but rides a little bit deeper or shallower than the old one. So the first parts guy had it right. It might help if you get a double lipped seal this time, and can't hurt. Clean the spindle seat area with fine emery tough either way. Remember this seal seats on the spindle of the axle housing and hob not the "axle" itself.
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