DRW Lug Nut Oil ? - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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DRW Lug Nut Oil ?

Per the operators manual for my 06 DRW, 2 drops of oil are applied onto the 2 piece lug nuts. No oil type is specified. Any suggestions on what to use?


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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 02:40 PM
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I use a Little antisize compound, been doing this as long as Iíve been driving with no issues.


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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 09:34 AM
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I personally would avoid anti sieze of any type, the mess alone is enough of a reason. For those of us living in environments with treated roads, it will actually lead to faster corrosion.

In this case, we're also not talking about the threads but the space between the captive washer in the wheel lug nut and the nut itself. Pretty hard to get anti sieze in there.

When the FSM says "oil" it means the type you'd put in the engine unless otherwise specified. They mention when to use GC-LB grease, when to use axle gear oil, when to use automatic transmission fluid... oil is just engine oil I personally use whatever is in my oil squirt can, which at the moment is cheapest parts store 5W-30 API-SN oil. Maye I should hit them with brake clean and put 15W-40 CI+? LOL!
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 09:39 AM
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AME, most definitely.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grogg View Post
Maybe I should hit them with brake clean and put 15W-40 CI+ ?

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-29-2018, 05:45 PM
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FWIW, antiseize will NOT lead to faster corrosion than bare metal. (Although there may be something better than antiseize??)
I grew up in the rust belt and have spent most other years in areas with harsh winters and road salt, etc. A little grease or antiseize makes a world of difference.
Example, when the truck in my sig was almost new, I removed all the brake caliper bolts while rotating tires and anti seized them. Several years later fronts came off easily when I needed to replace the pads. Just 2 years ago I replaced the rears, as the brake pad spacers had rusted away and caused the pads to wear out prematurely. Almost 10 years after adding the antiseize, the rear brake caliper bolts came out just like it had just come off the assembly line.
Same with lug nuts. A couple/3 winters in snow country and they'll be rusted on if left bare.

And to those who say you shouldn't lube wheel lugs because they could come loose.....if you're depending on rust to keep your lug nuts on, you have bigger problems!

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2018, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grit dog View Post
FWIW, antiseize will NOT lead to faster corrosion than bare metal. (Although there may be something better than antiseize??)
I grew up in the rust belt and have spent most other years in areas with harsh winters and road salt, etc. A little grease or antiseize makes a world of difference.
Example, when the truck in my sig was almost new, I removed all the brake caliper bolts while rotating tires and anti seized them. Several years later fronts came off easily when I needed to replace the pads. Just 2 years ago I replaced the rears, as the brake pad spacers had rusted away and caused the pads to wear out prematurely. Almost 10 years after adding the antiseize, the rear brake caliper bolts came out just like it had just come off the assembly line.
Same with lug nuts. A couple/3 winters in snow country and they'll be rusted on if left bare.
While your experiences are valid, anti seize will accelerate galvanic corrosion. Unless of course you're slapping on high Nickel content based stuff. I used to love slobbing anti seize on everything. In fact I loved it so much that when I bought my new Yukon spin free hubs, I thought "I'll never go through the hell of taking unit bearings off again! Some anti seize here, some anti seize there, I'll be laughing when I pull these apart again!". Oh, I was laughing alright...



Laughing and crying as I had to use heat, 4 lb club hammers, giant chisels and all kinds of other stuff to take out the spindles. Just look at all the iron from the steering knuckles that transferred to the steel spindles. They were installed in a July and removed the following May to do ball joints. That's right, one winter with liquid chlorine salt on the roads and some anti seize between the parts and look at what it did.

This is what lead me to stop using it everywhere and research what I was putting on. Anti seize is great for using forcing screw presses, or when pressing things together to prevent galling and seizing. I think it's absolutely terrible to use in automotive applications.

Personally I've switched to using a little bit of motor oil on things like lug nuts and door hinges, or silicone grease with PTFE everywhere else oil is not convenient.

Brake caliper bolts and small (less than M14) fasteners require so little torque to hold in that even if you used anti seize they'd probably come out just fine with an impact gun. I go with factory recommendation on that one, medium strength thread locker. Blue LocTite and other anaerobic sealants are great at preventing corrosion as well
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2018, 01:20 PM
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I ditched anti-seize years ago. Like most, I thought it was the end all to keeping things from locking together. Eventually the stuff gets hard and like others' experiences, I had things lock together even when using it. As well, it makes a mess, and can just compound on bolts.

I was turned onto this stuff which is why I ditched anti-seize:

I've used it in saltwater boat applications and literally bolts will come out like butter years down the road. I've been using it on bolts, interfaces, etc ever since and never had a problem getting things apart.

I'll still use copper anti-seize in high heat applications or the true nickel based stuff, but you pay premium for that and I really only use it in specific applications

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2018, 01:35 PM
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I always use "Never sieze"... It's an industrial grade of anti sieze. It's a dark black/grey color, and is Nickle based.

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 09:32 PM
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been using boat trailer wheel bearing grease for 40 years on everything down there,lug nuts bearings,ujoints tierods nothing will ever corrode

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-19-2018, 06:05 PM
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Grogg, I won't copy the pic you posted, too painful to see twice! lol
But holy shart, one winter AND you coated the mating surface between the hub and spindle? Not doubting you but I haven't seen that bad before. Even when I kept up a fleet of plow trucks in IL. Couple of them even tossed out their own rust accelerator out the back (salt trucks)!
So what's a guy use to keep that from happening that fast? Honest question. (Besides a moving van to somewhere south of the Mason Dixon line!)

On another note, what required the new free spin hubs to need removed within a year? Thought that was the point, never have to remove them again, just replace bearings..

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-19-2018, 06:11 PM
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Industrial "Never-seize" ftw.

If you are serious about using an anti corrosion lubricant on your drivetrain, this is it. And only it. IMO.
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04 CCLB 4x4 DRW... Short rod 6.4 build, treated peened and polished England's, 80%S&S, 10mm S&S CP3, AirDog 4g, 58/65/14 - 75/96/132, 103# springs, HD pushrods, ARP's EVERYWHERE, Fluidamper, ATS Stage 6, 5" one PC driveshaft. HPTunners by Larson Miller. 674hp & 1,369 TQ. Old 5.9 numbers.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-19-2018, 06:13 PM
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This is the ONLY compound used in refineries and chemical plants... And for good reason.

04 CCLB 4x4 DRW... Short rod 6.4 build, treated peened and polished England's, 80%S&S, 10mm S&S CP3, AirDog 4g, 58/65/14 - 75/96/132, 103# springs, HD pushrods, ARP's EVERYWHERE, Fluidamper, ATS Stage 6, 5" one PC driveshaft. HPTunners by Larson Miller. 674hp & 1,369 TQ. Old 5.9 numbers.
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