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2013-2018 General Discussion General Chit Chat About the 2013 model year differences 6.7L 4th generation Cummins - NO ADVERTISING -

Thread: Considering Gears for 37's-- help if your geared or deleted Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
12-24-2019 04:50 PM
nick00less
Quote:
Originally Posted by the man in black View Post
Your write up was very good Nick. I didnt mean to come off as insulting or anything just wanted another view on it. Some say it's a bear to get everything correct others say it's easy. I'm sure I could handle it but I always second guess myself.
you did nothing wrong..just wanted to remind you but more so encourage you that it really is that easy.

I too agree another thread will be useful so I'm right there with ya chief.

you're a lot like me..trust but verify
12-24-2019 04:36 PM
the man in black Your write up was very good Nick. I didnt mean to come off as insulting or anything just wanted another view on it. Some say it's a bear to get everything correct others say it's easy. I'm sure I could handle it but I always second guess myself.
12-24-2019 02:50 PM
nick00less
Quote:
Originally Posted by jroyster06 View Post
I will do a write up and take pictures. I would be working on it now but the rear R&P is damaged. Nitro shipped me a new one today. I did order 2 additional crush sleeves for each axle just incase. So far here's my parts run down

1350- gears- 1350
90- Cheap break in oil- 90 bucks
205-Amsoil severe gear for after the 500 mile break in
15-Additional Crush Sleeves
230- Tools (press, calipers, bearing puller kit, Inchpound torque wrench.

Im right around 1900 now. Side note: I have Magtech covers that add to the oil quantity. 12 quarts front and rear for each gear change. Had I taken it to a shop I would have probably been 2600-3000. So im happy...
Would love to see another persons write up.
12-24-2019 02:48 PM
nick00less
Quote:
Originally Posted by the man in black View Post
OP, could you please try to do a write up for us? I know Nick did one and it's great but he also had a master mechanic helping him. Be good for me at least to see how hard it is for the "average joe" to complete in their driveway.
The process isn’t hard. At all. I’m an average joe and none of it was rocket science. The only part I left out in my tutorial was pinion preload and ring backlash. All you gotta do is youtube those two processes to see how you measure pinion preload and ring backlash.

Aside from that my tutorial thread shows everything in detail from start to finish.

If you can change a tire, adjust valves, install studs, delete your truck, etc then you can do this. All it is simply is unbolting a bunch of parts and bolting them back up. No fabrication. No welding. The only precision work involved is preload and backlash. But if you know how to adjust valves and torque down your tires with a torque wrench then you can do it. It’s simply just another form of measuring, albeit super simple measuring.
12-24-2019 02:29 PM
jroyster06 I will do a write up and take pictures. I would be working on it now but the rear R&P is damaged. Nitro shipped me a new one today. I did order 2 additional crush sleeves for each axle just incase. So far here's my parts run down

1350- gears- 1350
90- Cheap break in oil- 90 bucks
205-Amsoil severe gear for after the 500 mile break in
15-Additional Crush Sleeves
230- Tools (press, calipers, bearing puller kit, Inchpound torque wrench.

Im right around 1900 now. Side note: I have Magtech covers that add to the oil quantity. 12 quarts front and rear for each gear change. Had I taken it to a shop I would have probably been 2600-3000. So im happy...
12-24-2019 12:44 PM
suns out guns out
Quote:
Originally Posted by the man in black View Post
OP, could you please try to do a write up for us? I know Nick did one and it's great but he also had a master mechanic helping him. Be good for me at least to see how hard it is for the "average joe" to complete in their driveway.
I can tell you it f'n sucks if you have never done it before, or it's cold, or you turn 4* too far and over-crush the crush sleeve. Basically, it sucks....but I'd do it all over again.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
12-24-2019 12:17 PM
the man in black OP, could you please try to do a write up for us? I know Nick did one and it's great but he also had a master mechanic helping him. Be good for me at least to see how hard it is for the "average joe" to complete in their driveway.
12-24-2019 12:05 PM
G. Mcpherson Check out C&M Gearworks. Good Pricing. I'm going to have mine done soon and 1300 for both install only.
12-24-2019 08:57 AM
hwmtrustychords
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawlerJamie View Post
Deleting and gears are two completely different things. Gears first, then delete. You’ll love it

I already screwed that order up, I am deleted and have the valve body already... I didn't do my research before hand, I just kept hearing everyone say delete it, its the best thing you can do... We'll I don't dislike it but I think gears would have been the right call.

I am just trying to collect the funds to have the gears done. I'm not sure what a fair rate is to have someone install them, what would a fair price be per axle?

parts and what not seem to run $1200 to $1500 (for the pair).
12-24-2019 01:36 AM
CrawlerJamie Deleting and gears are two completely different things. Gears first, then delete. You’ll love it
12-23-2019 10:00 PM
hwmtrustychords Definitely appreciate the info that you have supplied!

I was an idiot and did things in a backwards order, if I was to do it again gears would have been #1 on my list.

I deleted my truck first, then added in a billet valve body, I am finally looking at gears...

I currently run 35's, tow <10k infrequently. I am probably going to go with the AAM 4.30s you linked. I was curious though, what would it cost per axle to have someone do this? I figured just in materials I will have $1500, then another $600 or so in labor?

Currently searching for shops in my area to have it taken care of in the upcoming months.
12-16-2019 10:19 PM
jroyster06
Quote:
Originally Posted by sthrnromr View Post
FWIW I have 37's and I went Nitro 4.30's as a compromise between the 4.10 and 4.56. 40k on them now. Broke in according to spec. No issues and happy with my choice. Just my experience.
Thats the route im going...
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