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Thread: How Do I Dry Out My 6.7 Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-06-2020 03:45 AM
Mocho I think the biggest problem has been missed the "maxxforce" sticker on the side, engine itself wouldn't be worth pulling out of the pond. If you're not familiar i'd do some research on them, worth more in scrap steel even if they run. I wouldn't spend a dime on that engine other then replacing fluids. Even with that low of mileage, they are that bad.
12-29-2019 01:07 AM
How Do I Dry Out My 6.7

There was a bit too much time between the bath and the time getting the truck home.

Took some time to start looking into getting it powered up. Had to go to the IHC dealer and have a key made from the VIN. Cost $12.00. Both Cat 1000 batts were dead and had to replace them.

After the batts were installed, the moment of truth arrived....... would she light up???? Nope, not even the headlights. Started troubleshooting and had no power at the 100 amp fuse bars used for power distribution. There was corrosion at the terminals. Didn't get that warm fuzzy feeling that the rest would be a piece of cake. Didn't have anything light up on the dash either.

Pulled the ECM and the dash cluster for inspection ............... WHAT A MESS. Everything is corroded. Going to spend a few $$$$$$ to see what else needs replacing. If the cost is over $3000, I'll get a replacement cab.
12-12-2019 01:35 PM
Loki223 I think the new cab would pay for itself. While yes, most of that could be repaired, the new cab would also have a replacement interior, including all the wiring and stuff inside that did not try their hand at being a submarine. Plus the time savings of just swapping the cab vs taking everything apart to clean and fix/replace. Since the OP did say he could find a cab for a couple grand, i would lean that way pretty heavily

I also found it kinda funny how many people didn't read the thread, and just immediately started saying things.....water trucks can be fun though, driven my fair share of them. Although i kept the water in the tank in the back.
12-12-2019 01:15 PM
Jimmy N.
Originally Posted by cumminsturbofreak View Post
Damn, we all thought you were talking about a ram.

You need a new cab for that rig.
Not all. I believed what was shown in the first photo.

And I would disagree with needing a new cab. Of course, if all the wiring and plumbing is coming out anyway, swapping cabs isn't a big deal.
But neither is pushing out the roof, getting the windshield opening back in shape, or banging the doors back into submission. Been there, done that.

If a used cab is handy and affordable, sure, but it's definitely not needed.
12-12-2019 10:18 AM
cumminsturbofreak Damn, we all thought you were talking about a ram.

You need a new cab for that rig.
12-12-2019 01:49 AM
How Do I Dry Out My 6.7

It has been 3 months since it took a dive into the water. All the water and mud that the truck was exposed to has long since dried out. Everywhere there was mud is now rock solid. Today I tried pulling as much of the chunks of dried mud as I could.

As far as the cab is concerned, the following damages are known;

Roof is heavily dented
Windshield is broken
The upper portion of the windshield frame is bent downward
The light bar that sits just above the windshield frame is missing
Headliner is toast
Both R & L door frames bent inward
Both doors heavily damaged
Glass for vents and door glass is gone
Hood is damaged on both sides
The 1/4 fender near the firewall is damaged on both sides

I'll be posting pics soon

Attachment 862693

Attachment 862695

Attachment 862697
12-11-2019 06:51 AM
12-11-2019 04:51 AM
bigfish95971 Water up to fenders, sitting on wheels, What is wrong with the cab hard parts? Most soft parts could be removed and cleaned and dried out. Everything in the cab is man made materials and will clean and dry with some help without rotting except the headliner if it is cardboard and not plastic and it was dry wasn't it. The intake is above water line and so I expect water was sealed out or most things in engine compartment.
Oil and water would not mix unless it was run with water in it. If it was shut off when still running and it sucked no water in the intake I will bet all is fine. Change oil, fuel filters anyway and then disconnect injection electronics. Then crank it over by hand then the starter to make sure. i bet it will start and run fine.

In the meantime open all the doors and add some heat, small heater or garage, and a fan and let it run a few days.
12-11-2019 12:30 AM
How Do I Dry Out My 6.7

The truck is finally home in Rio Rancho, NM. I have a few must do projects before I can get to it and do a thorough inspection.

Just out of curiosity, pulled the dip stick to see if there was any water in the oil pan--all oil, no water.

Did the same with the power steering pump--- no water.

Fuel tank was not full as was expected---- cap was on tight

The cab is definitely toast and the following need lots of work:

Both doors
Windshield Frame
Cab roof--really bad
Rear panel
Minor damage to hood

YUP, new cab is in the works

More pics to come
11-20-2019 01:14 PM
MajorMalfunction I suggest filling a bag with rice and inserting the truck in it. Works great for phones when you accidentally drop them in the toilet
11-20-2019 01:47 AM
chansey I don't know if the truck was running when it went into the pond. It did go in nose first and overturned on it's side. No damage to the tank, however the cab roof and left door took a hit.

The last few members' posts sure sound promising. It's been over 90 days since the accident and not having been through something like this before, corrosion is my major concern. Really glad to hear that the major electronic components probably survived.

Thanks for the good info. I'm sure I'll have more questions when I get into the motor ... oh, it only has 15,523 miles on it.
11-19-2019 10:47 PM
bigfish95971 I agree with tatyanka.. clean, rinse, repeat and refill. Turn all parts by hand to clear cylinders. remove injectors. Diesel or alcohol 100% are both great to dislodge any water. Alcohol will leave no residual like diesel on non lubricated parts, and it is non corrosive like other thinners are.. I think many here are exaggerating. Some here have already had success from floods without major issues. Many electronics nowadays are well sealed, including harness connections. I possible the dehumidifier is a good idea, as is a heated ventilated barn/shop. A case of spray Electro-clean may help.

5 gallons of parts solvent is basically non-flammable and can be recirculated through parts an collected safely. It is about 60 dollars at a hometown parts store or less at and oil distributor.
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