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Thread: Not charging no lights no rpm Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-21-2019 09:29 PM
Pujol922 Fixed the problem kinda a dummy user fault error in my case. Here is a little back story to possibly make a fuel of you guys laugh. I bought the truck from a friend he went and built the engine to factory specs when his son hit a deer and ran it hot and whole nine yards. Mean time I get the truck half of the engine accessories weren’t around no number cooler or radiator. I put everything on and from my understanding I needed 3 grounds for it to work. 1- engine ground 2- alternator ground 3 body ground. I figure I had all three but (here’s where your going to laugh at my foolishness) I had engine ground and two on the alternator on from the plug and one on the mounting bracket. I thought I had all three. My mistake. I put a body ground from battery and boom fires up alllll gauges work alternator charges. Oh and that’s after I changed alt. And css. I’ve always been told the best lessons are learned the hard way. I’ll know for sure next time. But I thank you guys for lending your help/experience. I felt really dumb but super glad I figured it out.
09-21-2019 04:41 PM
jimduchek Another potential (but rare) possibility is a failed PCM. If you have an automatic, I think you'd be seeing some problems with that as well, but if you have a manual I'm not sure what all other symptoms you might see, but your truck would still mostly start and run fine. Cruise wouldn't work, and I suspect the 'water in fuel' and 'wait to start' lamps won't come on when you first turn the key. Crank sensor is the more likely culprit, but if verifying that gap doesn't help... It's a solid state hall sensor that's unlikely to 'fail' on it's own. If it came loose and made contact with the damper though, it could be damaged. Should work even if it's dirty, as long as the dirt isn't metallic. Also the wiring runs behind the crank pulley, if somebody did a haphazard job putting the clamps on/routing it could potentially rub through.

I don't think the cluster lamps are related to the other problems.
09-20-2019 12:59 PM
texasprd That method has often been mentioned on here, but I had to fold a "regular business card" twice to get it in the tolerance range (per my dial caliper) when I reinstalled my ESS after pulling the gearcase cover. Perhaps they don't make business cards like they used to. Just saying - verify the thickness... Also, I believe the FSM calls for you to use a non-magnetic feeler gauge (which a business card satisfies). I'm not sure why a ferrous-metal feeler gauge is an issue, other than I recall the ESS seems to have a magnet in it?
09-20-2019 12:55 PM
blackDOHC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire god View Post
Regular business card works for Gap.
That's what I use generally.
09-20-2019 11:39 AM
Fire god Regular business card works for Gap.
09-20-2019 10:45 AM
Pujol922 Somewhere I read that it had to be .050 and I tried to get as close as I can with the spark plug gauge that I had on hand. The sensor is like 80 bucks at a local parts house. Might just have to go get one and install it. I’d rather not just keep throwing parts though as I just put new alternator and batteries. But will try and get back tonight
09-20-2019 07:43 AM
GAmes
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pujol922 View Post
I have a 95 3500 2wheel drive. 5speed System isnít charging went through new batteries. A new alternator. Even though new alt isnít charging and it isnít the 120 amp fuse under hood. Checked all grounds. Odometer doesnít work, speedo, nor the rpm gauge. Cluster light also quit. Been trying to look up symptoms of bad crank shaft sensor it sorta sounds like thatís the colprit but Iím not sure and would like some more advice before I changed it out. Iím sorry if this is in the wrong spot. But any help would be greatly appreciated as I need to be in Dallas Monday morning. Also back of fuse block on #13 fuse is melted a little which I think is cluster lights canít remember. Nothing is wrong with wire as far as I can see
Have you checked the sensor on the crankshaft for the correct gap? It is the engine speed sensor, (although some businesses list them as a CPS) not a crank shaft sensor in case you want to find it in the factory service manual. Loss of charging and tach failure are common when they fail. They are also instances where their failure causes the speedo to quit.
09-20-2019 01:34 AM
Pujol922
Not charging no lights no rpm

I have a 95 3500 2wheel drive. 5speed System isn’t charging went through new batteries. A new alternator. Even though new alt isn’t charging and it isn’t the 120 amp fuse under hood. Checked all grounds. Odometer doesn’t work, speedo, nor the rpm gauge. Cluster light also quit. Been trying to look up symptoms of bad crank shaft sensor it sorta sounds like that’s the colprit but I’m not sure and would like some more advice before I changed it out. I’m sorry if this is in the wrong spot. But any help would be greatly appreciated as I need to be in Dallas Monday morning. Also back of fuse block on #13 fuse is melted a little which I think is cluster lights can’t remember. Nothing is wrong with wire as far as I can see

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