| Topic Review (Newest First) |
| 11-22-2019 03:23 AM | |
| Cheeze | I got back from the trip 9000 miles later. It shook some the whole time but not enough to make the trip miserable. I have rotated the tires and it is up front now but it actually is a little better there for some reason. I plan to take them back to Pep Boys where I bought them and have the one bad one warrantied if they will. It will never ride like it should but it's tolerable now. Just waiting for things to slow down enough for me to drive out there (we don't have a Pep boys in my town). |
| 11-21-2019 12:14 PM | |
| texasprd | Cheeze, did you finally get this resolved? What was "the ending"? |
| 09-27-2019 03:19 PM | |
| Jimmy N. |
Good, might as well. The machine has a "Measure bare rim" setting, and shows exactly where to hold the sensors, so they shouldn't be able to mess that up. |
| 09-27-2019 02:49 PM | |
| Cheeze | When I get the chance to have these tires exchanged, I guess I'll ask them to mount to rim and check for runout before they put the new tires on. It's worth checking everything and anything at this point. |
| 09-27-2019 11:44 AM | |
| Jimmy N. |
Did you get a chance to confirm that the tires are seated correctly on the wheels? Some have a thin stripe about an 1/8-inch from the wheel which makes it very easy to see. Although, by now at least two tires should've been seated correctly even if it was by mistake. For a while I thought about it maybe being worth measuring the rims for real, after dismounting the tires, as GAmes suggested. When measuring a bare rim it's done at the bead areas, not the relatively inconsequential outer edge, which could make a difference on a poorly made wheel. But that the new tires did the same with the old wheels kinda rules that one out. |
| 09-27-2019 08:53 AM | |
| GAmes |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy N.
View Post
Only if the machine asks for measuring the bare rim should that be needed.
The rim's basic runout can easily be measured with the tire still mounted, as long as there are no wheel weights that could interfere. |
| 09-27-2019 02:37 AM | |
| Cheeze | 3 of the wheels brought up the warning screen on the hunter for excessive road force. I imagine that's even worse when you sit an 8,000 lb truck on them. At least 3 shops checked the rims and said they very true. I don't know. They run true while the tires wobble and hop. On the truck and on the machine. I had the same problems with the new tires on the old rims but they always ran smooth with the old tires. |
| 09-26-2019 10:23 PM | |
| Jimmy N. |
Only if the machine asks for measuring the bare rim should that be needed. The rim's basic runout can easily be measured with the tire still mounted, as long as there are no wheel weights that could interfere. |
| 09-26-2019 09:44 PM | |
| GAmes | Did you ever put a wheel on the balancer without a tire mounted? |
| 09-26-2019 09:29 PM | |
| Jimmy N. |
Normally it's done with a cone on the outside, but using a Haweka or similar setup, it can be done lug centric as well. A good, unmodified, wheel can generally be mounted with a cone. The balancer doesn't know, or care, if the wheel is hub centric on the vehicle. |
| 09-26-2019 09:15 PM | |
| Aburdett |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy N.
View Post
A Hunter will show down to one thousandth of an inch how much runout there is.
As long as the wheel is mounted correctly on the balancer, that is. If the rim is lug centred and the balancer is hub centred would that not allow for issues? I say this not knowing how the hunter references the rim. |
| 09-26-2019 09:13 PM | |
| Jimmy N. |
A Hunter will show down to one thousandth of an inch how much runout there is. As long as the wheel is mounted correctly on the balancer, that is. |
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