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Thread: Rear door wiring harness (Permanent fix!!) Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-14-2020 08:48 PM
Repair complete

I got the correct wire and the correct tool now. Got this repair finished up before the holidays. Thanks for the great write-up. I've also found some other great uses for that flexible wire, so I'm fixing other stuff with the extra.
I still tell my passengers to lock their doors and retract their seat belts. Half of them didn't know the doors were broke. Half don't know they are fixed. It's a little for the fun & a little for the nostalgia of it. Reminds me of when I was a kid. Roll up windows. Manual locks. No A/C. You had to lock your own door back then. And roll your own window up.
01-14-2020 03:30 PM
smelonas Mine was intermittent for a short period of time then went to a dead door shortly after. Wire had failed internally. Found no broken jackets.

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01-14-2020 11:52 AM
Eric-07 If it’s intermittent like that most likely the wires are broken internally (the insulation jacket will most likely be in tact.) and sometimes touching just right to work.
01-14-2020 11:34 AM
Dudeonthenet Both of my back doors, sometimes lock with the remote, sometimes do not. Would these wiring harnesses in the back door likely be the cause?

If yes, why would the malfunction be intermittent? Is it because the OEM harness is being stretched slightly and that sometimes this pulls the contact points just enough that they lose connection, and sometimes not?
01-13-2020 08:24 PM
smelonas To do the repair correctly, per the instructions, there will be no splices in the rubber boot anyway. All the splicing and connections are in the door. Which is really the only way to do it honestly.

Those little connectors are nice. I've seen them, but I tend to to just heat shrink and solder separately anyway. Maybe one day I will try them.

Thanks for the addition. This is why I write things like this and edit them as needed. I try to keep my stuff up to date. (Hows about that build thread HUH?? lol)

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01-13-2020 05:49 PM
krashDH Nice write up, had to replace the wiring on the rear drivers door first. That silicone wiring is an awesome product. High strand count, tin coated, as flexible as a wet noodle. I've also had to replace the same type of harness flaw on my TDI Golf in the rear hatch. Used that wire, permanent, cheap fix.

As far as the connectors though, Posi-taps can't be beat (far superior to scotch-lok's) in terms of adding wire or splicing into existing sources if need be. The butt connectors are great for connect/disconnect if you ever need to. I think the problem in the case of these harnesses is the room in the boot.

When I have to do the passenger side door, I've been using these connectors for a few years now, they're almost as a good as invention as the zip-tie:

Heat shrink solder butt connectors. I go through SO many of these with all my electrical projects. I just got done wiring in an Android head unit, backup camera, license plate lights, and other odds and ends. These have made my internal and external connections and never have to worry about moisture. Added bonus is no crimping and the solder factor. They were used in fixing the hatch wiring in my TDI. They're used all over my motorcycle for custom odds and ends I've done. Gotta love being able to do it the easy way. Hardly even have to get out the soldering iron anymore.
01-13-2020 04:45 PM
Carpz 2006 Mega WOW! this site is awesome!
Have a problem with your Dodge Cummins truck, do a search here and voila and lots of answers and fixes in search results.

Drivers side rear door wiring failing first. Yep, mine must be starting to fail because my interiors are not coming on when the dr. side door is opened. Will have to try to refrain on using that doors window for the rest of the winter and perform this fix when it quits snowing so much. Thanks smelonas for taking the time for this quality write up!
12-08-2019 09:41 PM
Stuff on the Wall I've also had issues with the rear speakers and door locks. Thanks to your write up, I'm now all fixed up. Thanks from over the hump. (P-Town). I love that bad @ss feeling we get after doing a repair from the garage, not taking it to the shop.
11-26-2019 07:04 PM
Originally Posted by Gildo View Post
I just love it when some quotes pictures, especially to ask a question that's not related to the pictures.

Thanks for the write up. I think that I'm experiencing the same issue with my left rear door locks.
9 times out of 10, it is the driver rear door to go bad first. The driver of the vehicle uses that rear door the most. Failure was imminent from the time the truck was assembled.

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11-26-2019 06:55 PM
Gildo I just love it when someone quotes pictures, especially to ask a question that's not related to the pictures.

Thanks for the write up. I think that I'm experiencing the same issue with my left rear door locks.
11-26-2019 01:33 AM
Originally Posted by underp2 View Post
I used 1 that was included in my BD Exhaust brake install kit. Worked fine. I'd only use it inside though. Under hood or exterior I use connectors that already have the heat shrink on them, then hit them with the heat gun.
I've used Posi-Lock and Posi-Tap connectors under the hood and never an issue.
11-25-2019 05:05 PM
underp2 Agreed. That was just my opinion on that type of connector.

I was crimping up my connectors last night, but I stopped. The 14 gauge was not making a nice crimp.
I realized somehow the crimper I got was a metric one-reordered the Right one, and will return the metric one.
The 18 gauge wire was not the super flexible Wire like the 14 gauge. Since that's the basis for the project, I stopped. Ordered more wire.
This stinks. The truck has been tore apart for weeks.
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