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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-21-2020 08:54 AM
sdeeter19555 I installed that Dodge Connection steering brace, that was fairly straight forward short their instructions are way off for a w250 (4x4). Bolts are 9/16" and 7/16"...no drilling was required on my w250.

Truck is sidelined right now, I'm trying to salvage the turn signal lever "stalk" that is broken. I tried to remove it per FSM instructions, but to no avail. I did determine it is broken into three pieces: stalk, upper screw tab, lower screw tab. I used some superglue to get the pieces fitted. I then cut a piece of heavy sheet metal and bent it into an "L", drilled a hole for the screw, put a curve in it to match the stalk, and installed it under a screw. I then mixed up some JB Weld and epoxied that whole thing together (stalk, metal brace, base). I need to mix a touch more epoxy tonight, I am going to put a brace between the stalk and the metal switch to keep the stalk from rocking back when using the dimmer.

Hopefully this will limp me along for a while...once this dies, I will convert to heavy duty toggle switches for the turn signals and the wipers, and put the dimmer on the floor.

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01-16-2020 08:18 AM
sdeeter19555
Quote:
Originally Posted by ofelas.5z View Post
Keep an eye out for water dripping on #6 injector when the hood is opened.

I usually relocate the VR to the left fender (roughly the area where 92-93 trucks have their relays). This has the added benefit of it being away from exhaust manifold heat.
I never considered the heat factor, the gassers wouldn't have that issue (this is the first external VR I've had in many years). I may move it later this spring when the weather breaks.

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01-16-2020 04:50 AM
ofelas.5z Keep an eye out for water dripping on #6 injector when the hood is opened.

I usually relocate the VR to the left fender (roughly the area where 92-93 trucks have their relays). This has the added benefit of it being away from exhaust manifold heat.
01-15-2020 09:43 PM
sdeeter19555 I also did this little modification.

I had noticed water off the hood drained onto the voltage regulator and I have an old voltage regulator (from an older truck) that is swelled because it started to rust underneath because it was getting wet.

It is simply a piece of oil jug pinched between the cowl and cab, held in place by that single screw. You can see the water marks tracing down that cover already.

Cost - zero

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01-15-2020 02:06 PM
sdeeter19555
Quote:
Originally Posted by myother4x4isaCJ7 View Post
They are extremely Smokey and are cut too deep that in some cases will make the afc leak fuel. If you donít have your fuel screw turned up a bunch it may not be too Smokey. There is a small rubber cap with a drain tube at the back of the pump watch that for fuel dribbling out.
The fuel screw has the hat on it yet, but I'm sure this pump has been gone through based on the red tamper-evident marks.

Like I said, normal driving it is clean and not even a haze. If I stomp on it, it gives a puff of smoke and cleans right up because the converter is non-lockup. It just revs up and the trans has to play catch-up!

I wouldn't have even guessed the pin was changed because of the way it runs...I knew the top had been opened at some point, but I figured it was a stock pin, just rotated.



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01-15-2020 12:01 PM
myother4x4isaCJ7
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdeeter19555 View Post
Dirty, as in smokey? The loose converter of the 727 won't let it. I can only get a little puff if I stomp it and then it cleans right up.

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They are extremely Smokey and are cut too deep that in some cases will make the afc leak fuel. If you donít have your fuel screw turned up a bunch it may not be too Smokey. There is a small rubber cap with a drain tube at the back of the pump watch that for fuel dribbling out.
01-15-2020 07:05 AM
sdeeter19555
Quote:
Originally Posted by N1NJ4ON3R View Post
That looks to be a fairly dirty pin, in my eyes.
Dirty, as in smokey? The loose converter of the 727 won't let it. I can only get a little puff if I stomp it and then it cleans right up.

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01-15-2020 12:46 AM
N1NJ4ON3R That looks to be a fairly dirty pin, in my eyes.
01-14-2020 08:27 PM
sdeeter19555 I pulled the overload springs, the Helwigs, and that made a big improvement in steering, I think the rear suspension was so stiff, it was forcing the front suspension to do weird things. I think the shocks are maxed out also, with the added blocks, so the suspension can only really compress but not extend.

Still not perfect, but tolerable. Rides a little better too...

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01-05-2020 12:52 PM
sdeeter19555 Here is my home made top connector...no welding involved. I may grind the bolt heads thinner and smooth them out a little, but they clear now without issue.

Now I just need another support...

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01-04-2020 06:00 PM
sdeeter19555 Well, been doing little things here and there...

Today I took the top of the AFC of and found a batch of stuff...I pulled that plastic spacer on the advice of someone on forums. It runs better now...it runs clean, even with that pin (someone said it was a Denny T stage 2?). Anyone tell me anything specific about what I have? The red/green spring? The pin is kinda obvious. Any idea of a builder that does all the red tamper-evident marks?

I found an LE tailgate, but as I indicated a while ago...someone cut off the nubs for the tailgate supports and welded on some oddball latch. I figured out that nub is a rivet, and I drove it out with a punch leaving a nice 7/16" hole. I then took a 7/16" bolt, a washer, and a piece of a brass fitting (to act as a spacer) and bolted the one support strap I have to the body. Turned out perfect! So I made a second one for the other side for when i find another strap...

I also put a drop pitman arm on today...that was a pain. Forgot that was a pressed fit and that you had to pull the box loose to get a puller on it...that made the drag link completely flat. I also got my steering wheel centered at the same time.

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12-22-2019 02:31 PM
sdeeter19555
Quote:
Originally Posted by myother4x4isaCJ7 View Post
Iíve seen this a few times. Before you tear into it and as long as it has good oil pressure put a can of marvel mystery oil or sea foam in the oil and run it for an hour or so then change the oil. That has freed up any stuck lifter Iíve run into.
Thanks,

I've owned this truck since new, only ran Mobile 1, Schaeffer's, or Miles.sxr. I can't imagine there is any buildup, but it can't hurt to try.

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