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Thread: 2006 TIPM AC Output Shorted Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-03-2019 08:42 AM
Daves06Cummins Hey guys, thanks for the great feedback.
I am just now getting back to finishing my truck.
I can’t seem to decide on which is the best option OEM Electric Fan Clutch or Mechanical Ford Mod?
I have read many posts in this forum of problems with new 55056990AC OEM Dodge Fan Clutch.
If the Mechanical Mod is best has the mod been done on 2006 5.9L? Are there any clearances issues using the stock 26” fan blade,
Parts: New Ford Fan Clutch, New Fan Clutch Adapter, New Fan Bearing and OEM Original Stock Fan
I value your input, your help and experience has been excellent.
Also should I install the Bypass Relay Mod to the AC compressor to reduce the Current draw on the TIPM circuit? Trying to cover everything to protect the TIPM.
Thanks,
Dave
05-23-2019 09:00 PM
Daves06Cummins Truck went back to shop this morning for further diagnostics. New Aftermarket Fan Clutch failed.
Like PWONG and RGHAVANA stated on this forum ECM doesn't like to work with an aftermarket fan clutch.


I had no idea I was setting myself up for failure. The new Fan clutch never did work!


I was so focused on the TIPM failure, the fan clutch got by me!

I would like to say thanks to everyone who helped me here on the forum.


Dave
05-23-2019 06:23 AM
PWong
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daves06Cummins View Post
two codes came back indicating the original fan clutch failure.

P0480 Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit/Open
P0483 Cooling Fan Speed
P0480 is the fan clutch solenoid.
P0483 is the fan speed sensor.

If the wire harness is intact then the fan clutch is defective.

Yes ECM doesn't like to work with aftermarket fan clutch, like the President and Democrats.
05-23-2019 05:43 AM
rghavana Hopefully you bought OEM fan clutch ,USA made 55056990AC .
A lot of issues with import aftermarket fan clutches.
FWIW, I believe Hayden is OEM manufacturer but not 100% sure.

Could swap to mechanical and live with P0483 soft code that should not effect AC operation, detailed in newbies guide
https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/22069665-post1.html

Should go thru diagnostics for P0480, wiring/connector has a lot of issues with it.
Can search newbies guide for FSM for your truck, section 9
https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/22069665-post1.html
P0480
Possible causes
FAN CLUTCH
WIRE HARNESS DAMAGED
OPEN FAN CLUTCH (K160) DRIVER CIRCUIT
(K160) DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO (K690) RETURN CIRCUIT
(K160) DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO BATTERY NEGATIVE
INTERMITTENT CONDITION
ECM
05-22-2019 06:39 PM
Daves06Cummins Thanks for your input and support. I finally found a local shop that could do a reflash. They found 41 codes and TIPM was reset and AC Compressor came on and was cold!😃
However, two codes came back indicating the original fan clutch failure.

P0480 Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit/Open
P0483 Cooling Fan Speed

Note on Report states Power to Fan - But not working, Engine Coolant Temperature 194F, Zero Fan Speed.
Tech had leave before I could speak to him. Note stated bring truck back for further diagnostics.
So Next step is to start tracing wiring for an open circuit?
I am open any suggestions.
Thank you all again for your help.

Dave
05-20-2019 09:54 PM
PWong If there is no power output from TIPM then it needs to be reset or replace or do a relay bypass modification.
05-20-2019 09:49 PM
PWong
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daves06Cummins View Post
I put the test light to C2/10 LB/OR wire by piercing the conductor insulation connector connected and it lit up.
Engine off or running. However with engine running, blower ON and AC light ON, test light not lit (Off).
So jumpering this wire to ground won't damage ECM?
Just want to be sure before doing so.
Dave
How did you hook up the test light, to the battery negative post?
If yes, then the light should be on when there is no ac request.
And the light should be off when there is ac request.

So your ac request signal to TIPM is good.

After you send the ac request signal to TIPM you can verify the TIPM OUTPUT AT C9-3 with the test light.
There is no need to use a jumper since the request signal can be sent from the ECM.
05-20-2019 06:07 PM
Daves06Cummins I put the test light to C2/10 LB/OR wire by piercing the conductor insulation connector connected and it lit up.
Engine off or running. However with engine running, blower ON and AC light ON, test light not lit (Off).
So jumpering this wire to ground won't damage ECM?
Just want to be sure before doing so.
Dave
05-20-2019 05:05 PM
PWong
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daves06Cummins View Post
After work today I will run a jumper to ground at C2/10. I didn’t expect to see 12v with the engine on or off with the connector installed?
I read about the ghost voltages when connectors are unplugged and disappear when reconnecting by going to ground.
Troubleshoot with all connectors connected.
05-20-2019 04:57 PM
PWong Use a test light instead of a voltmeter so you dont see ghost voltage.
05-20-2019 01:55 PM
Daves06Cummins Thanks PWong,
After work today I will run a jumper to ground at C2/10. I didn’t expect to see 12v with the engine on or off with the connector installed?
I read about the ghost voltages when connectors are unplugged and disappear when reconnecting by going to ground.
I will post tonight the results.
Thanks again for your input.
Dave
05-20-2019 10:21 AM
PWong
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daves06Cummins View Post
My fan clutch failed, which in turn caused my AC compressor fail.

AC compressor Clutch would not engage. Found TIPM input to Compressor with zero current.
Usually a comp/clutch failure causes high current draw from TIPM and hence NO power output at C9-3 DB/YL wire when there is triggering grounding signal at C2-10 LB/OR wire.
And this is a common AC issue with the TIPM.
Its rare that the ECM fails to send the triggering signal.
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