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07.5 - 09 3rd Gen 6.7L Performance Parts Discussion Discussion of Performance Parts For the 6.7L Trucks...NO ADVERTISING

Thread: Ebay EGR delete vs Sinister Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-19-2019 05:22 PM
LastRideOut Thanks El Pozz. I went ahead and disconnected it. Took me 20 minutes as the connectors were stuck together (I know about the red safety clips). After wiggling for a good 20 minutes, I finally got them apart.

I went ahead and cleaned the grid heater. I used acetone in combination with a wire brush. It was not that caked up, not as bad as some of the pictures that have been posted here. Still, I went ahead and cleaned it all up. I used a shop vac to vaccum up loose soot. I tried my best not to get soot into the intake, but if we are being completely honest here, any soot that fell into the intake is no worse than what has been put into the engine for the previous 107k miles with the EGR garbage on.

Pics below.

















05-19-2019 07:38 AM
El Pozzinator Thatís a pyrometer for the EGR. It can indeed be disconnected. When your delete tuning gets loaded, thatís one of the inputs the ECM will no longer be paying attention to.


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05-18-2019 10:51 PM
LastRideOut Well I finished the DPF delete pipe installation. It was a bit of a pain to get the DPF pipe inserted into the muffler extension pipe cause it was a tight fit. But it is in now. While I was at it, I drained all the oil, removed the oil filter, and replaced the CCV filter. I'll be putting the new oil filter on tomorow, and filling it up with the new T6 Rotella oil.

I got the air intake horn off. I ordered the 3.5" pusher horn from ebay. It's fairly obvious that the black MAP sensor connector will be transferred over to the new pusher intake. But what about the glass-like probe that was bolted onto the stock horn? I unbolted it and took it out, it looks like a small thin pencil-like probe. What does this do? I don't see a place for it on the new pusher horn.

Pics. Can't believe the local shop wanted $200 for the CCV filter plus $100 labor for replacing it. It was a ten minute job for me. WOW.







And this is the pencil-like probe I was talking about.


Edit: It looks like I can just disconnect the pencil-like probe since it connects to a connector that can be disconnected.
05-15-2019 10:14 PM
LastRideOut I'm going with EFILive AutoCal from PPEI- a single 30+ HP tune. I've heard that Kory Willis does good work. As far as a cheap option, outside of a box tune, I haven't been able to find any sub-$500 options.

Besides, a tune isn't an area where I want to go cheap on. I'm willing to spend good $$$ on a custom tune.
05-15-2019 01:47 PM
KTMGuru What Tuner are you planning to go with and where do you think is the best deal on it? I've been looking at MiniMax.
05-15-2019 11:34 AM
KhakiCummins
Quote:
Originally Posted by N of 60 View Post
They have been known to close. Intermittent loss of power and black smoke on hard throttle. This was the culprit for many. Removing the butterfly was the answer. Just a FYI.
I have only ever heard this from people who did not unplug the TV. I have not heard of anyone having the TV inadvertently close if it was unplugged.
05-15-2019 01:04 AM
LastRideOut Take a look at my previous post, #14. See where I said I removed five 10mm bolts? That was the reason why I could not get the horn to budge. I remember thinking that five 10mm bolts was an odd number of bolts, as those usually come in even #s. I completely ignored the 4" 10mm bolt that goes through the oil dipstick bracket into the horn. I didn't think that bolt secured the horn to the shelf, but turns out, it does.

The other day I removed the 1" 10mm bolt that secured the oil dipstick itself to the bracket, but not the 4" 10mm bolt that secures the dipstick bracket to the horn through the intake shelf.


I'll get that horn off once I get the new intake horn. I won't be doing the heater grid delete, as it is a lot of work getting that plate off. I'll clean it, and get the new horn on.

Glad to know why I couldn't get that horn off. :-)
05-15-2019 12:29 AM
El Pozzinator The banks 3.5Ē monster ram outflows ďthe muffler shop jobĒ (their words) by a bit, and the 4Ē outflows it by a lot. However both are still limited by the stock intake shelf, which in both cases is going to eventually be the limiting factor. Bottom line, until you get into serious mid-3-digit-over injectors and huge-by-large turbos, the intake horn itself is just eye candy - and by that point the shelf and the intake valves will be the problem.

The only appreciable difference I saw from installing a horn on my 06 or my 08 has been, I think, from eliminating the grid heater. Doesnít spool faster, boost higher, or come up more aggressively. Just seems to drop EGT quicker now. And frankly in both cases I think itís from getting the grid heater out of the way. In the 08 Iím almost certain itís from removing the relative mountain of soot that was caked throughout the entire intake shelf.

Thatís the one I went with as well (the sub-$100 stainless 3.5Ē pusher-style). Painted, clear coated, and baked it in the oven while my wife wasnít paying attention for a couple hours. Installed a cheap grid delete plate and cheap 3.5Ē boost tubes with much nicer boots all painted up to match as well while I was at it and loaded an updated tune for removal of the TV, the grid, and the EGR pyro. No performance or mileage difference, just looks a heck of a lot better under there now.


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05-14-2019 11:53 PM
s10010001
Ebay EGR delete vs Sinister

Quote:
Originally Posted by LastRideOut View Post
No problem! Under what conditions does the valve close? Kinda hope it is open now cause I'm putting the EGR delete kit and the DPF pipe on this Friday.



At that point, is it alright to start the engine, without the tuner? Reason why I ask is because it has been sitting for a while now, and I need to get the batteries all charged up. I won't be ordering the tuner from PPEI until next Friday. Ugh.



I'm with you on the $130 horn. The one I am planning to get in the summer is this one, or one like it:

The valve is default (sprung) open. So it so it only closes when the egr opens, forcing the truck to breath the exhaust more and the clean air less.

Once you physically delete (remove the dpf and remove or disable the egr) you will got into limp mode and the dash will light up like a Christmas trees if itís not tuned before starting it up. It will be in limp mode for sure. Iím not sure what else it would do but I would think starting it would be ok just to let her idle, but maybe let someone elseís chime in there.


Yup thatís the horn Iím looking at too, I personally donít think those horns do anything unless youíre into some big hp, but at $100, itís a super clean looking egr delete. Banks did a test on a bunch of horns on YouTube (to market his ďbestĒ horn) and the pusher was just under his in flow, so close I donít see how one could justify his his for nearly $400!
05-14-2019 09:09 PM
LastRideOut No problem! Under what conditions does the valve close? Kinda hope it is open now cause I'm putting the EGR delete kit and the DPF pipe on this Friday.

At that point, is it alright to start the engine, without the tuner? Reason why I ask is because it has been sitting for a while now, and I need to get the batteries all charged up. I won't be ordering the tuner from PPEI until next Friday. Ugh.

I'm with you on the $130 horn. The one I am planning to get in the summer is this one, or one like it:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-Raw-Per...1a52%7Ciid%3A2
05-14-2019 01:29 PM
s10010001
Ebay EGR delete vs Sinister

Quote:
Originally Posted by LastRideOut View Post


I'll hit the bolt holes / seam on the engine side of the air horn with some liquid wrench tomorrow and have another go at taking it all off. What a PITA. I'm almost thinking about not doing the TV delete until I get a new air horn sometime this summer/fall. That might be the route I take. If I go down that route, should I unplug the plastic connector on the side of the air horn to stop the butterfly valve from closing, or does unplugging the EGR valve take care of that?

Sorry I missed that part the first time..

If you leave the TV in place, all you do is unplug it, the tuner will take care of it and unplugged it cant close so it just sits open all the time. You can open the little grey case and remove a gear, or pull out the flapper but thatís really for older delete options that needed the tv left plugged in, so it was a way of letting the tv electronics (or the computer thinking it was working) work but never actually close the flapper. The tune will make the computer not care.

Of course there is the theory (fact? Idk) that it can close from air pressure under certain high boost conditions causing a brief loss of power. Like I said before I donít see how myself, my TV was really firm to close with my finger. But Iím also not making much over stock power. I have not had any loss of power and I have done some pretty good runs towing with it for long drives.
05-14-2019 12:39 PM
07tncummins Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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