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  Topic Review (Newest First)
03-28-2019 05:53 AM
Those_cummins Wish I would’ve seen that before, I’ll look into that. Thanks for all the help
03-25-2019 12:10 PM
9297oldram
Quote:
Originally Posted by Those_cummins View Post
Thatís what I did in the beginning, I use 12v accessory from the relay closest to the firewall. Pretty sure its a blue wire. But going straight to the battery is fine, especially if I add a toggle switch under the dash to cut power when not in use?
If you can remember to turn the toggle on and off it would work ok but a relay would work better. Look at this Thread post no 1, the hand drawn picture shows how to wire it. https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/8...-few-pics.html
03-25-2019 11:11 AM
Those_cummins That’s what I did in the beginning, I use 12v accessory from the relay closest to the firewall. Pretty sure its a blue wire. But going straight to the battery is fine, especially if I add a toggle switch under the dash to cut power when not in use?
03-25-2019 09:15 AM
9297oldram If you don't use a key on wire and go straight to the battery you'll drain your battery down when it isn't running. Most will use a relay and pull battery volts to the regulator so that it still turns on and off with the ign key.
03-24-2019 10:04 PM
Those_cummins Ok, sorry for not responding. So I went out and bought another voltage regulator. Same lick. This time; however,I decide instead of hooking the regulator to both of the exciter poles and a 12v accessory, but straight to the battery. This worked. But the question is are there any drawbacks or reasons I shouldn’t hook it directly to the battery?
03-22-2019 08:44 PM
9297oldram
Quote:
Originally Posted by Those_cummins View Post
Yes, and I grounded it both to the firewall and alternator itself
Should have worked then did the same on my Blazer only I used this regulator, https://store.alternatorparts.com/pa...iABEgLUhPD_BwE . The first one I had on it made my lights blink so I replaced it with the adjustable one.
03-22-2019 07:18 PM
Those_cummins Yes, and I grounded it both to the firewall and alternator itself
03-22-2019 04:49 PM
9297oldram
Quote:
Originally Posted by Those_cummins View Post
I shorted out the pcm a long time ago, every else is working mostly as it should. When I added the external regulator, I made my own field wires. I used a dodge external regulator and corresponding pig tail. It made the truck not charge, but the lights didnít flicker. Maybe I didnít do the field wires correctly.
Did you run a key on hot wire to one of the wires at the regulator? Was the regulator grounded good?

Another option would be a 1 wire alternator from https://www.paperformance.com/136a-d...1-wire-2227se/
03-22-2019 08:48 AM
Those_cummins I shorted out the pcm a long time ago, every else is working mostly as it should. When I added the external regulator, I made my own field wires. I used a dodge external regulator and corresponding pig tail. It made the truck not charge, but the lights didn’t flicker. Maybe I didn’t do the field wires correctly.
03-22-2019 08:29 AM
9297oldram You can't add a external regulator to a truck that the charging is controlled by the ECM unless you cut the 2 field wires off the alternator. Then you run new wires from the external regulator to the alternator.
03-21-2019 11:55 PM
KATOOM The alternator voltage is regulated by the PCM. Flickering headlights are usually a telltale sign of a bad rectifier in the alternator.
03-21-2019 11:24 PM
Those_cummins I once added an external voltage regulator and it only made the truck not charge, but the lights didn’t flicker. She’s a 93
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