|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-16-2019 07:55 PM|
Thanks for the update!
It will most likely help someone down the road.
|05-16-2019 11:58 AM|
|Bobbyv4x4||UPDATE: The last few weeks the truck has been running terribly! Anything over half throttle and the truck would stutter like a lack of fuel. The only way I could drive it was around town going no more than 1/4 throttle, so I almost never drove it. Finally bit the bullet and bought a VP pump from Thoroughbred and installed it last night. Bled the lines and took it for a ride this morning and she is running just like new! Problem solved! Also, replaced the Cam Sensor while the VP was off the truck since its a cake walk with the VP out of the way. Anyway, I figured I'd give an update in case anyone else has the same problem.|
|01-14-2019 09:38 PM|
You cant test AC voltage using the batteries because they act as a filter skewing the results. You have to test directly off the alternator. Touch the tester red line to the hot post on the back of the alternator and then the black wire to the alternator body. Thats the most accurate.
Then I advise turning on all your electronic accessories and have a friend sit in the cab ramping the throttle up to 2000 RPM. Test the AC voltage again and it will be higher...
Also, yes it sounds like your CPS is bad or faulty (or the connection) and that can cause problems like you described.
|01-14-2019 09:28 PM|
|Bobbyv4x4||Finally got home from work at a decent hour today and tested the AC voltage on the truck and it was at 0.2 volts at the battery, that is acceptable, isnt it? However, when I fired up the truck tonight, the tach was not working and did not budge. So I shut the truck off after about a minute of running and then turned it back on. The tach still never moved until about 30 seconds after I started it the second time. When it moved it slowly went up to about 900rpms bounced around for a bit there before it settled in steady at 900 (there was no hesitation or stuttering in the motor). Would the crank sensor or engine speed sensor be the cause of this? Also is it possible that a faulty signal from either of these sensor be the cause of the hesitation while under load?|
|01-09-2019 12:13 AM|
|Bobbyv4x4||That makes sense..I never really thought of it like that. Ill do a once over on all the connections in the morning and call some buddies to see if anyone can help out with the scope. I really appreciate all the help!|
|01-08-2019 11:57 PM|
The similarities between the 2nd gen and 3rd gen are very limited. Yes, they have the same engine block but there were way too many changes throughout the entire truck which would suggest that if your truck is doing exactly what you see in that video, and thats a 3rd gen, then whatever similar symptoms you guys are experiencing is electronic. Either bad connections/grounds, or connection issues somewhere.
If you know anyone with a scope, that would help you understand whats going on during those moments in real time data.
|01-08-2019 11:48 PM|
Ill take the truck for a whip around in the morning and watch the tach a little closer. From what I recall, there is no sudden drop in the tach but I will take a video to make sure. If there was a drop, that would mean crank sensor..right?
I didn't have time today to check the APPS but I will do that in the morning before I go drive it. I will also check out the alternatorl. I was also flipping through some youtube videos looking for similar problems and from what I can tell, this guy has the exact same problem as me. Pay close attention to around 26 and 40 sec. I know its a 2004 but he's got the same motor..right? 5.9 24v? Check out the vid:
|01-08-2019 10:30 AM|
It just sounds electronic to me... I'm no fan of Glowshift gauges but nonetheless I'm going to guess that its not lying to you whereby you're not reading much much lower fuel pressures than you think simply because I'm going to guess the Raptor is fine and running correctly and through all the normal cycle procedures too.
So that said, I know you've changed the APPS but it still sounds like a flat spot in the rheostat, or a connection to/from the APPS. The only way to know is to hook a scope to it or test the voltage swing of the APPS.
The only other electronic device I say could be causing a problem is the alternator. If the alternator is weak and/or the diodes are bad then the AC voltage noise can get very high and create electronic interference with other sensitive electronic devices on the engine. And these engines are very sensitive to such electronic anomalies too. Test for AC is very easy too if you have a volt tester with both DC and AC readings.
|01-08-2019 06:43 AM|
personally i dont know why the 20 psi question was asked.
i am.just commenting that 20 wont hurt while running.
it can at cranking, but that is not an issue here.
how does the tach act when idleing ?
it maybe a crank/cam sensor issue, even as far as a speed aensor....scan tool and drive, log or view all data. have aome else drive while you watch.
|01-08-2019 12:39 AM|
I forget where I got the TPS, I put it on a few months ago. It was not from timbos, but I just checked out their website and I am going to hook up my voltmeter tomorrow just to make sure I dont have any erratic voltage.
I just took off the wiretap to check for corrosion and I see no signs. Just a normal bare wire. I can adjust my fuel pressure, but what is the reasoning behind cranking it up to 20psi?? If it was a fuel problem, wouldn't higher pressure just cover it up? Ill try to kick it up tomorrow after work and let ya know.
Ill ask a few buddies for a different scanner, I have the Genesis Evo 5.0. Some day a P Pump, but not now, this is my work truck and its hurting me having it out of commission.
There is no delay for the WTS, when the ignition is on, all the dash lights come on along with the WTS and it stays on until its ready. There is no delay at all and it illuminates as soon as the key is turned on.
Back before this was a huge problem I would come up to stop lights/signs and the tack would have the slightest drop, something that the average person would never notice or if they weren't paying attention/music was too loud. It was almost like a/c compressor kicked on..maybe a drop of just a 100-200 rpm. If I had the music down and was paying attention I could hear/feel it but something that was not very noticeable which is why I never thought much of it. Maybe it was just the preliminary signs of what this all escalated too...
|01-06-2019 07:46 PM|
the 20 psi at idle wont hurt....i idle at 21-22, and see 25 at WOT.
HIGH PSI AT CRANKING can cause issues.
i prefer the WELLS APPS from autozone undr the duralast name.
all this said, does the tack ever drop out for a sec ? or possibly a speed sensor....
|01-06-2019 07:42 PM|
just to be clear...the WTS stays on longer ? that is normal for cooler temps.
what you want to verify is....the WTS ILLUMINATES IMMEDIATELY when the key is cycled on. if it hesitates to illuminate, that is the sign of a problem.
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