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94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

Thread: d89 Presents: How Long Should I Run My Block Heater? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-17-2020 11:30 AM
dauntless89
Quote:
Originally Posted by dauntless89 View Post
I've got most of the big pieces of this build, just waiting on a crank to get back from balancing and then I can start putting it together. I'm planning to have the engine done and in the truck by Thanksgiving. Even with the predictable amount of snafus, I should have plenty of time this winter to play with the thermal imager.

It never ceases to amaze me how I manage to jinx myself every time I open my mouth. Snafu after snafu has resulted in the engine just getting set onto the mounts last weekend. Currently working on turbos and bending new injection lines. I also have a potential instrumentation headache and it'll be another couple weeks until I can fire it and break the cam in. It's still getting into the teens at night but it's normal to see 45-50+ during the day, so I don't know that I'll be able to produce any good thermal data this season. We'll see.


To answer your question, the warmed coolant never interacts with the oil until the engine is started. Sump temps will only get a few degrees above ambient (if that) from whatever thermal conduction can occur through the pan itself. Once the engine is started, heat immediately travels out of the coolant and into the oil through the oil cooler. It wasn't uncommon to see coolant temps drop ~30 degrees within the first minute of starting the engine.
01-08-2020 10:22 AM
24hrsparkey
Quote:
Originally Posted by dauntless89 View Post
I am making this a sticky due to popular request.

A lot has happened in the last year. To bring everyone up to speed, I didn't get my old engine (12v 5.9) done in time to do any thermal studies on it last winter. The truck ended up sitting most of the summer as well and I didn't get a chance to actually fire it up until mid-August. The cam failed almost immediately and trashed the cam tunnel. My options being what they were, I opted to start from scratch and build a P-pumped 6.7 12v. The CR blocks use only the thread-in style of block heater (also found on the 12v and 24v STORM blocks) and due to the internal geometry of the block casting, the freeze-plug style heaters are a no-go on the 6.7. I did choose to thread the coolant freeze plugs on the driver's side of the block, and there's a possibility I can get a second thread-in heater in one of those ports, but most likely I won't be able to retain dual heaters.

When I built the Hamilton 12v head for the original motor, I moved the custom temp sensor port out of the coolant tube and into the front of the head, close to the thermostat. This will eliminate the false-low readings, and because I'm using this 12v Hamilton head again on the new engine, I'll still be able to experiment with selectively blocking the vent hose like I was talking about to keep heat in the engine.

I've got most of the big pieces of this build, just waiting on a crank to get back from balancing and then I can start putting it together. I'm planning to have the engine done and in the truck by Thanksgiving. Even with the predictable amount of snafus, I should have plenty of time this winter to play with the thermal imager.
Kinda wondering IF the heated coolant ever heats up the oil to any significance ( very cold weather )

Id like to think ? wish it does , but i remember one time it was pretty ignorant out and i put my hand on the oil pan .... it was cold. lol.

carry on ...
01-08-2020 10:18 AM
24hrsparkey
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quest View Post
Just a quick question regarding the operation of the heating element it self.
I was told that it operates in a similar fashion as a water heater element, with the major different being that there is not a thermostat option to regulate the temp ( pre set op temp for our heaters being F140ish?).
So, when the element reaches the pre set temp, it shuts off.
If that is the case, when we plug our trucks overnight ( let's say 8 hrs), if the element cycles ON & OFF, is not really drawing that much current.
So, does the heating element cycles ON & OFF? if that's the case it costs a lot less than expected to prewarm our trucks.
Yes the block heater element itself is very simm to a home electric water heater element .
But
Home water heater has a thermostat .
Truck block heater No thermostat . Its always on while plugged in. Hence using a timer to control electric consumption .

IMO the block heater does use considerable power , and is def a cost .
10-28-2019 02:24 PM
dauntless89 I am making this a sticky due to popular request.

A lot has happened in the last year. To bring everyone up to speed, I didn't get my old engine (12v 5.9) done in time to do any thermal studies on it last winter. The truck ended up sitting most of the summer as well and I didn't get a chance to actually fire it up until mid-August. The cam failed almost immediately and trashed the cam tunnel. My options being what they were, I opted to start from scratch and build a P-pumped 6.7 12v. The CR blocks use only the thread-in style of block heater (also found on the 12v and 24v STORM blocks) and due to the internal geometry of the block casting, the freeze-plug style heaters are a no-go on the 6.7. I did choose to thread the coolant freeze plugs on the driver's side of the block, and there's a possibility I can get a second thread-in heater in one of those ports, but most likely I won't be able to retain dual heaters.

When I built the Hamilton 12v head for the original motor, I moved the custom temp sensor port out of the coolant tube and into the front of the head, close to the thermostat. This will eliminate the false-low readings, and because I'm using this 12v Hamilton head again on the new engine, I'll still be able to experiment with selectively blocking the vent hose like I was talking about to keep heat in the engine.

I've got most of the big pieces of this build, just waiting on a crank to get back from balancing and then I can start putting it together. I'm planning to have the engine done and in the truck by Thanksgiving. Even with the predictable amount of snafus, I should have plenty of time this winter to play with the thermal imager.
10-31-2018 02:13 PM
DJRobinson Wow, great posts! Not sure how in the heck I missed this 2 years ago. Looks like I'll be picking up a timer and a couple of new cords for my trucks.
10-31-2018 12:24 PM
Loki223 Looks like everything is working again with the predator vision
10-31-2018 11:58 AM
dauntless89 Thanks for letting me know, I fixed it.

I forgot about this, I'll have to finish my auto swap before I can do the dual-heater imagery and 3-hour imagery but we're heading into the right time of year for it.
10-30-2018 05:05 PM
Loki223 @dauntless89 any chance you can get your pics back up on post 14, they showed a lot and are now gone from my view
01-18-2018 05:10 PM
Jureksoccer Great stuff dauntless. Keep it up.
01-18-2018 12:14 PM
Loki223 I would be curious as to the difference in temps according to the FLIR in a 3 hour setting vs the 8 hour setting, but understand that might take a minute for you to have the time to check that
01-18-2018 09:34 AM
ekvhekvh I have enjoyed using an APP to open my garage with my smart phone. Works great when youíre on the bike. Using a WiFi control to turn an outlet on would be a convenience for those of us in the frozen north and donít have a schedule to know when to plug the truck in. Looks like exterior controllers are between $30 and $100ís .

When very cold out (-15 or less) my truck seems to want at least two hours to ease starting.
01-18-2018 09:22 AM
hookit Once again, off the charts with your analysis dauntless! Thumbs up [emoji106]


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