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98.5-02 Performance Parts Discussion Discussion of Performance Parts For the 98-02 Trucks No Advertising ...NO ADVERTISING

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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-20-2020 07:36 PM
KATOOM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshinparadise View Post
It's becoming more and more evident to me that the more I find out, the less I realize that I understand about Diesel Engines.... SMH
There's nothing wrong with that... Thats what these forums are for. Learning as much as offering "accurate" information. Unfortunately thats not always what ya get.
01-20-2020 07:22 PM
Joshinparadise It's becoming more and more evident to me that the more I find out, the less I realize that I understand about Diesel Engines.... SMH
01-20-2020 07:22 PM
Joshinparadise
Quote:
Originally Posted by KATOOM View Post
Correct, cool air is best for a denser air charge in the cylinder. As noted, the OEM air filter box pulls from the inner front fender instead of the engine bay.
But with diesels you have to be careful because diesel engines rely solely on the heat of compression to initiate combustion. So if you live in a cold climate and you're pulling nothing but freezing air then you can easily cause a poor combustion process which will affect overall performance and mileage. Especially on a cold diesel engine. Gasoline engines...totally different.

I am FASCINATED by this comment. I had no idea. Really. Thank you!!!!
01-20-2020 07:20 PM
Joshinparadise
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctmaybury View Post
The cold intake air will get warmed up with compression by the turbo. How cold is too cold pre turbo? Idk. The iat sensor feeds data to the computer, that adjusts injection timing and duration. Too cold and mileage will suffer. To really dial it in, you need a data logger with thermocouples pre turbo and post intercooler. By eliminating computer control, my mileage potential is probably less than with the vp, but I can experiment without the computer changing variables every microsecond.
This hurts my brain. <3
01-20-2020 04:02 PM
ctmaybury The cold intake air will get warmed up with compression by the turbo. How cold is too cold pre turbo? Idk. The iat sensor feeds data to the computer, that adjusts injection timing and duration. Too cold and mileage will suffer. To really dial it in, you need a data logger with thermocouples pre turbo and post intercooler. By eliminating computer control, my mileage potential is probably less than with the vp, but I can experiment without the computer changing variables every microsecond.
01-20-2020 03:01 PM
ofelas.5z Minimum 40% correction factor, no less.
01-20-2020 03:00 PM
KATOOM How about those dyno runs where the engine sucks the air out of the room...
01-20-2020 02:58 PM
ofelas.5z Oh yes I have.

But those were massively over corrected dynos.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KATOOM View Post
Example, think of a dyno room. Have you seen anyone running an air pump shoving mass air into a scoop or intake during the dyno run?
01-20-2020 02:52 PM
KATOOM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshinparadise View Post
Ok, let me change my comment from "ram" air to "fresh, non-heated airflow from OUTSIDE the engine bay". And, yes, of course there would need to be some kind of filtration for dust, water, etc. I just don't see how bringing in cooler air from outside the engine bay is a bad thing in any way.

Regarding the fender cowl, the AFE box that I linked above looks like it has an opening the same size as the one in the fender... Any reason why a custom hose couldn't be fitted to only pull air from there? Seems small to me, but, what do I know? I'm the one asking because I'm relatively new to diesel. My old toy was a 95, twin turbo Rx7. Had a 1.3 liter Rotary motor putting out over 600 horse at 1bar. Can't do that with American motors! =D
Correct, cool air is best for a denser air charge in the cylinder. As noted, the OEM air filter box pulls from the inner front fender instead of the engine bay.
But with diesels you have to be careful because diesel engines rely solely on the heat of compression to initiate combustion. So if you live in a cold climate and you're pulling nothing but freezing air then you can easily cause a poor combustion process which will affect overall performance and mileage. Especially on a cold diesel engine. Gasoline engines...totally different.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ctmaybury View Post
I have the afe box on one truck. It isn't tightly sealed to the fender, but a decent isolator to the heat from the turbo. I've seen drag trucks pull the right headlight and fashion some sort of a ram air. I don't want to scoop the hood or pull a headlight. My plan is going to start with a bumper with a intake (scoop). Winch mount and storage for chain and straps and fog lights too. I was thinking 1/8 inch steel diamond plate, but might be too heavy. I'm better at welding steel than aluminium.
They run scoops in the front because of air flow around the vehicle at high speeds. But you can put it anywhere you want...
Example, think of a dyno room. Have you seen anyone running an air pump shoving mass air into a scoop or intake during the dyno run?
01-20-2020 02:13 PM
ctmaybury I have the afe box on one truck. It isn't tightly sealed to the fender, but a decent isolator to the heat from the turbo. I've seen drag trucks pull the right headlight and fashion some sort of a ram air. I don't want to scoop the hood or pull a headlight. My plan is going to start with a bumper with a intake (scoop). Winch mount and storage for chain and straps and fog lights too. I was thinking 1/8 inch steel diamond plate, but might be too heavy. I'm better at welding steel than aluminium.
01-20-2020 02:01 PM
Joshinparadise
Quote:
Originally Posted by KATOOM View Post
You cant "ram" the air into a turbo. The volume of air ingested at any given time at the turbo inlet is far beyond any pressures you could create with an air scoop. You'd have to be driving at speeds well above 150 mph to affect anything...and at that it would be negligible. Turbos only pull in the amount of air in relation to the volumetric pressures of hot air exiting the exhaust based on load. At no time is the engine working to breath otherwise there would be no boost. Boost is simply the amount of pressure always sitting in the intake system waiting to be ingested by the cylinders. A naturally aspirated engine in turn requires ambient pressures, velocity, and scavenging in order to work efficiently and can more easily benefit from a ram air affect.
Ok, let me change my comment from "ram" air to "fresh, non-heated airflow from OUTSIDE the engine bay". And, yes, of course there would need to be some kind of filtration for dust, water, etc. I just don't see how bringing in cooler air from outside the engine bay is a bad thing in any way.

Regarding the fender cowl, the AFE box that I linked above looks like it has an opening the same size as the one in the fender... Any reason why a custom hose couldn't be fitted to only pull air from there? Seems small to me, but, what do I know? I'm the one asking because I'm relatively new to diesel. My old toy was a 95, twin turbo Rx7. Had a 1.3 liter Rotary motor putting out over 600 horse at 1bar. Can't do that with American motors! =D
01-20-2020 01:31 PM
KATOOM There was a member (cant remember name) who frequently drove on dusty Idaho back roads and used BHAF. Changed them out regularly too. I guess it all depends on driving conditions...
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