|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-25-2019 09:42 PM|
When in doubt, take a minute or two to bleed the hydraulics. You can do it the hard and long way by removing it and hanging it over night. Or you can take a quick short cut.
Grab a mighty vac(or cheap HF knock off) and use a thin attachment or a hollowed out pen. Press it in the bottom of the reservoir and into the line enough to make a seal. Pull a tight vacuum, then pull the pen all the way out of the reservoir really quickly. This will force the hydraulics to take in the fluid.
|08-25-2019 07:07 PM|
|98whitelightnin||I went out and adjusted mine out a total of 5 turns and it does not shift any better than before. The clutch pedal is probably up 2" higher than the brake pedal. I turned it back down 3 turns and it feels the same so I left it.|
|08-25-2019 03:37 PM|
|marco610||Update with the South bend hydraulics. After installing and adjusting, it shifts like butter now, no more third to rev combo needed. Just have to get use to the engage point at the top of the travel now.|
|08-23-2019 08:20 PM|
Originally Posted by 98whitelightnin View Post
I have the upgraded South bend hydros sitting here just haven't got around to installing it.
I'm using the same rebuilt dual disk I used when I had a nv45 and it shifted flawless, so there is a light at the end of the tunnel I believe. Just got to find it.
|08-23-2019 08:16 PM|
1st and reverse are always the most difficult... As mentioned, always touch another gear like 4th or 2nd before moving the shifting into 1st. It helps because there's a lot of weight spinning with that big clutch disc and it can be hard to get things lined up. Also, there's a thing called "synchro lockout" which is basically the synchro tips touching and not fully engaging. To help with that, put the truck in neutral with the clutch out and lightly blip the throttle. As the RPM's are dropping down, press the clutch and try again. It usually falls right into gear.
But that said, if there's anything wrong with the clutch assembly, like a dragging pilot, worn or warped disc/pressure plate, worn pressure plate, then it can affect engaging gears. So if it just doesnt want to engage no matter what you do then hydraulics would be first to look at and then the entire clutch assembly.
|08-23-2019 07:32 PM|
|98whitelightnin||I just got south bend dd and southbend hydros in my 98 and its a booger to get into gear from a stop but was really easy before the clutch. I have about half pedal before disengagement and seems like it should be about right. Maybe I need to adjust mine too|
|08-23-2019 06:22 PM|
|Stick shift||Yes it helps go in better 4 th to rev , I think rev is sync’d cause it goes in rev rolling forward without grinding|
|08-01-2019 03:34 PM|
|crazyrunner33||Try shifting in and out of 4th before reverse or 1st. Usually twists the main shaft a tad and reverse will slide in. Reverse is non synchronized. 1st shares the synchronizer with 2nd. Shifting into 2nd usually helps for back to 1st.|
|08-01-2019 03:26 PM|
|Stick shift||My clutch engages and disengages on the top side of half way. Seems plenty of throw to disengage it|
|07-18-2019 04:32 AM|
I dealt with mine not wanting 1st/reverse for about 200k miles..assumed thatbwas just how the truck was.
Replaced/upgraded clutch hyrdraulics to southbends upgrade for the nv4500.....couldnt believe what a big diff proper hyrdraulic pressure made
|07-17-2019 04:13 AM|
|bigfish95971||Clutch not releasing all the way due to bad hydraulics?|
|07-16-2019 07:02 PM|
Standard 5 speed
Having troubles getting into 1st and rev. I’m thinking pilot bushing ?