Introduction - Toyota Land Cruiser 6BT/NV4500 Swap "The Overland Tractor" - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Introduction - Toyota Land Cruiser 6BT/NV4500 Swap "The Overland Tractor"

Hey guys! I'm new to the forum and I wanted to introduce my build.

I have a 1993 Toyota FZJ80 Land Cruiser that I am swapping a Cummins 5.9 6BT and NV4500 5-speed into. It should make a helluva Land Cruiser when I'm done.





The donor motor is a 1996 12-valve with the P-Pump out of a 2WD automatic Dodge w/ 240k miles.





https://youtu.be/SguehRH_opQ

The NV4500 a 1997 with the "old-style" top cover plate.



First order of business is to get the engine on a proper engine stand and start de-greasing and teardown.

Also, first dumb question - What is this for?


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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 04:55 PM
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Nice build, I moved you to the Conversion section.

That circled hole is the access to the torque converter bolts.

Are you completely tearing it down, if so why? You should tab the KDP, R&R the front and rear seals, tappet cover and adjust the valves.

Most people just leave the top cover off when they do a Conversion with the engine, it's a Cummins engine not a Dodge engine.

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

96 F350 SC dually zf5, 4x4, 92 Cummins, THD 5x12's, THD fuel pin, THD HVLP with adjustable fuel pressure mod, WM, h1c 60/60/12cm WG wired
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9297oldram View Post
Nice build, I moved you to the Conversion section.

That circled hole is the access to the torque converter bolts.

Are you completely tearing it down, if so why? You should tab the KDP, R&R the front and rear seals, tappet cover and adjust the valves.

Most people just leave the top cover off when they do a Conversion with the engine, it's a Cummins engine not a Dodge engine.
Thanks for moving me to the correct section!

No, not a complete teardown. Similar to what you suggested - KDP, seals, tappet covers, new water pump, valve adjustments, etc.

I may go ahead and swap to ARP head studs, rebuild the turbo, and upgrade the exhaust manifold. Plus gauges (EGT, boost, water temp).

It was leaking oil pretty bad, so the motor is filthy. I need to figure out where the oil is coming from, but it looks like the timing housing/gear case. I need to pull the alternator, A/C compressor, and compressor bracket anyway. So might as well give it a thorough cleaning and repaint too. Do any vendors offer a good seal kit?

I'm for sure going to pull the Dodge vanity cover from the Cummins valve covers.

Thanks for the info on the torque converter access hole. I assume there is no difference between the manual and automatic flywheel housings?
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by will van View Post
Thanks for moving me to the correct section!

No, not a complete teardown. Similar to what you suggested - KDP, seals, tappet covers, new water pump, valve adjustments, etc.

I may go ahead and swap to ARP head studs, rebuild the turbo, and upgrade the exhaust manifold. Plus gauges (EGT, boost, water temp).

It was leaking oil pretty bad, so the motor is filthy. I need to figure out where the oil is coming from, but it looks like the timing housing/gear case. I need to pull the alternator, A/C compressor, and compressor bracket anyway. So might as well give it a thorough cleaning and repaint too. Do any vendors offer a good seal kit?

I'm for sure going to pull the Dodge vanity cover from the Cummins valve covers.

Thanks for the info on the torque converter access hole. I assume there is no difference between the manual and automatic flywheel housings?

I used Fel Pro gaskets and seals and haven't had any issues.

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

96 F350 SC dually zf5, 4x4, 92 Cummins, THD 5x12's, THD fuel pin, THD HVLP with adjustable fuel pressure mod, WM, h1c 60/60/12cm WG wired
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-13-2020, 01:58 AM
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Rear structure will be the same for autos and stick.

May I ask why youíre doing a 12 valve into that cruiser? What engine is in it now? Only reason I ask is Iíve had 12 valves all my life and just a few weeks ago picked up an HDJ81 with the 1HDT. Itís certainly no Cummins but itís about as dead simple as one and definitely moves the cruiser around with power to spare


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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-24-2020, 03:36 AM
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