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post #13 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thatís cool, if I do end up painting my motor and accessories im thinking Iíll go gray to match the truck, the beige is hard to beat though.

Seems like people arenít super happy with the life of the DCS mount bushings, and their availability. Have they been fine for you? Iíll likely end up going with them just because they are affordable, or Iíll make my own frame side mount and use the stock 2nd gens already on the motor. Gotta do more research and see if itís feasible. Biggest concern to me is making sure I have the motor in the right place and I feel like that guess work is taken care of with ready made mounts, but who knows they could be less than perfect too.

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post #14 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 02:19 PM
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There is no 'right place' for the motor. Its where it fits best for your specific truck and ready made mounts aren't always in that spot.

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post #15 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 02:49 PM
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On the OBS Fords the engine sits to the right for some reason and so is the pinion yoke on the rear axle.

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

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post #16 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77Fummins View Post
There is no 'right place' for the motor. Its where it fits best for your specific truck and ready made mounts aren't always in that spot.

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Thatís a good point, Iím probably overthinking it in that regard. May just spend a good amount of time mocking it up and doing mounts that fit my setup.

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On the OBS Fords the engine sits to the right for some reason and so is the pinion yoke on the rear axle.
Interesting, now since Iíve done axle/suspension swap to super duty stuff you think this will change where the drivetrain wants to be? I didnt notice any difference in rear drive shaft angle when going from the 10.25 to the 10.5, Iíll have to measure and compare the 2. Another reason to make my own mounts...
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post #17 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 03:34 PM
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Just measure from the backing plate on one side to the center of the pinion yoke and then from the backing plate to the center of the yoke on the other side and see how much difference there is on the rear axle.

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

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post #18 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 07:59 PM
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I have the dcs mounts in my 77. Same style as the obs mounts. I don't like them and probably wouldn't use them again. I think the style where they sit on top of the frame transfers more vibrations into the frame. Also the upright bolts that hold it to the frame tend to move around as they dont have a keeper on the top.

The reason I didnt build my own is because I'm not much good at welding and I didn't want questionable welds holding my truck together. Using the stock style mounts is the best way to go in my opinion.

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post #19 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 09:34 PM
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I'm not a big fan of the poly bushing mounts DCS uses, they look like a street rod setup.
Destroked uses 3rd gen Cummins mounts and engine brackets with their own frame brackets.
It's a really good setup, but as I said the engine set higher than I liked so I modified the side plates to lower the engine.

Left side



Right side



The beige bolts are where the mounts originally went, we made new plates moving the mounts up and back.
Up was to lower the engine, back was to clear the bolts holding the plate to the block.

Mine-04 F-450 SCFB 4X4 drw,5.9 12v 215 Ppump,ZF 6,KYclutch,KDP fixed,gauges,5x12's,15deg,3k GSK,60#,AFC Live, Super B single,Pusher intake,D celebrator brake,07 coil spring front conversion.
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post #20 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Destroked 450 View Post
I'm not a big fan of the poly bushing mounts DCS uses, they look like a street rod setup.
Destroked uses 3rd gen Cummins mounts and engine brackets with their own frame brackets.
It's a really good setup, but as I said the engine set higher than I liked so I modified the side plates to lower the engine.

Left side



Right side



The beige bolts are where the mounts originally went, we made new plates moving the mounts up and back.
Up was to lower the engine, back was to clear the bolts holding the plate to the block.
That looks exactly like what I have drawn up in my head, are the 2nd gen block side mounts much bigger? Havenít seen em in person but was just thinking of making the frame side bracket to work with them, or maybe the 3rd gens like youíve got.
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post #21 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018, 12:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77Fummins View Post
I have the dcs mounts in my 77. Same style as the obs mounts. I don't like them and probably wouldn't use them again. I think the style where they sit on top of the frame transfers more vibrations into the frame. Also the upright bolts that hold it to the frame tend to move around as they dont have a keeper on the top.

The reason I didnt build my own is because I'm not much good at welding and I didn't want questionable welds holding my truck together. Using the stock style mounts is the best way to go in my opinion.

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That seems to be the general consensus on them.. donít feel like spending $375 for mounts that wonít last or I wont be happy with.

Probably have my buddy come over with his welder come time, that way I can blame him when my 12 valve smashes through my grill in an abrupt stop.
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post #22 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018, 11:07 AM
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2nd gen mounts have been used but not sure how the engines sets, if you have some set the engine in with the mounts and see how it looks, if you like it have your friend weld up a set of frame tabs or removable brackets.

Hint: To make installing the engine easier we bolted everything to the engine, then bolted the brackets to the frame after the engine was installed.
This keeps you having to lifting the engine higher up to clear the frame brackets.

Mine-04 F-450 SCFB 4X4 drw,5.9 12v 215 Ppump,ZF 6,KYclutch,KDP fixed,gauges,5x12's,15deg,3k GSK,60#,AFC Live, Super B single,Pusher intake,D celebrator brake,07 coil spring front conversion.
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post #23 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-24-2018, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Well the 7.3 is sold and should be out of the truck Oct 6 weekend, probably go pick up the 12v and other parts the following day or week. Anyone have any experience adding sound insulation to the firewall and/or inside the cab?

Sure is tough to decide how far to dive with this build right now, half of me says take my time and do everything to reach my 550+/- hp goal, the other says do the swap first and get it driving with just the basic fuel mods 350+/-
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post #24 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-24-2018, 01:11 PM
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This is the first time you've mentioned hp goals which brings to question what your plans are for the truck.
A single turbo big enough to support 550+ hp behind a 5 spd manual is going to be a laggy dog between shifts, for that setup I'd want compounds which is a whole nother can a worms to plumb up in a OBS chassis.
A quick spooling single making 300-400hp will be fun to drive but won't win many races against the newer trucks with all of their electronics.

Have you ever done much tuning on a p pumped 12v, if not I recommend starting off with a few basic mods and working your way up.
I've read several threads on this forum of guys diving in head first for big hp only to sell out at a big loose when they couldn't get it running properly or ran out of $$ before it was finished.

Mine-04 F-450 SCFB 4X4 drw,5.9 12v 215 Ppump,ZF 6,KYclutch,KDP fixed,gauges,5x12's,15deg,3k GSK,60#,AFC Live, Super B single,Pusher intake,D celebrator brake,07 coil spring front conversion.
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