12V Swap into 2003 Excursion - Page 7 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #73 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Even more pics....

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post #74 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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She was SUPER dirty....There's a Ford pun in there somewhere...
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post #75 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 12:51 PM
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Sounds like your moving along getting it done.
My bus engine also had the air compressor drain in the side of the block and I had to change to Dodge mounts.
There's a core plug that fits that hole on engines not equipped with air compressors, Dodge engines come with the core plug installed, measure the hole or order the plug from Cummins.
On mine due to having to swap the mounts and keeping the air compressor I installed on fitting in the side of the oil pan for the compressor drain.

Mine-04 F-450 SCFB 4X4 drw,5.9 12v 215 Ppump,ZF 6,KYclutch,KDP fixed,gauges,5x12's,15deg,3k GSK,60#,AFC Live, Super B single,Pusher intake,D celebrator brake,07 coil spring front conversion.
Her's-18 F-150 STX SC, 4x4, 5.0
Toy- 64 Fairlane, future 406FE, 3 Holley 2bbls, 4 spd

Last edited by Destroked 450; 04-15-2019 at 10:32 PM.
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post #76 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Sweet! Thanks! I'd be willing to bet it came in the freeze plug kit I bought. I'll see if I have one that will fit.
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post #77 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Dug into the G56 last night. I was a bit concerned about some input shaft play (side to side, not in and out), but after tearing it apart and reading some more information on the internets, I'm happy with it as-is. I came across this thread and post #4 specifically. That, coupled with what I see inside the trans means my pocketbook survives another day.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/...6-seal.231026/

So, steps are fairly easy, but having the service manual helps. Drain the fluid, all of it. I made a huge mess on my floor because I didn't have it all drained. Not fun. Remove the shift tower (10mm bolts), making sure it's in neutral. Tie the shift forks together with a zip tie, set the trans on its rear, remove the reverse sensor (8mm). Remove the 5-6 shift fork pivot pins from both sides of the case and then the reverse idler shaft pin from the rear housing. These were fairly tight. I had to use a long breaker bar and a cheater pipe on one of the shift fork pivot pins. Remove all the transmission housing bolts. Split the case. Mine needed a reseal anyway, so it came apart pretty easily. I also removed the throwout bearing and fork and the input shaft retainer. I'll be putting a new seal in the rear as this one was a 2WD and a new front seal as I don't want it to leak and I'm not sure how many miles are on the trans. Oh, and careful with the 5-6 gear synchro. I moved mine around and 2 of the three detents went flying. I spent at least 15 minutes and several curse words finding them. I removed the input shaft and the bearing looks good. I can see some wear on it, but nothing major. The race looks good as well. There is one seal on the input shaft that I may change. It looks fairly good, but may as well if I'm replacing seals. The countershaft all looks good with no chips, uneven wear, or other major wear on any of the parts. The races in the case look good as well. I didn't pull the mainshaft yet, but I expect that it'll be in fairly good condition. The syncro (5-6) looked really good with little to no wear. That makes me happy because those things are super expensive! The reverse gear also looked really good but it had some handwriting on it. So, this transmission may have been gone through by someone at some point.

Make sure the transmission is on its' rear when you pull the reverse gear bolt. Otherwise, it'll fall out into the case. If you're opening it up, not such a big deal. But, if you weren't planning on it, you'd be screwed. Not sure why you'd pull the bolt if you weren't cracking the case, but folks do weird stuff sometimes.

On to the pictures! I'll update as I get through putting it back together.
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post #78 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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More G56 pictures
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post #79 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Even more G56...
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post #80 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Last Round...Oh, and @Destroked 450, the plug for the oil dump under the motor mount was in fact in my kit. Plugged right up!
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post #81 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Injector Installation

Got my injectors in the mail yesterday, and obviously had to put them right in! I ended up with 260 Bar, 5x012 VCO injectors with a 145* spray. These are fueled more than stock, and supposedly are a +90HP injector. I had originally decided not to add fuel, but the addition of a fuel stop plate (#10) and some increased timing, I figured why not. They were on sale and overall not super expensive. If I decide it's too much fuel and I don't like them, I could sell them and buy another set.

So, when installing 12V Cummins injectors, there's a little ball on the side of the injector that matches up with a corresponding hole in the head. You have to make sure they line up. The first one I did, I got a little sideways during the install and almost ruined a brand new injector. So, here's the "how to":

1. Keep everything clean.
2. Check your injector hole for debris and make sure it's clean.
3. Remove the protective cover over the nozzle and the sealing washer.
4. Add a drop of engine oil (clean) to the end of the injector where the sealing washer sits, reinstall sealing washer.
5. Put a VERY light coating of anti-seize on the body of the injector just below the overflow hole where the nut will sit.
6. GENTLY place the injector into the hole, lining up the ball. Don't force it. If everything is clean as it should be, the injector sits right down in.
7. Add a small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the CLEAN nut.
8. Sit the nut down on top of the injector and screw it in by by hand. You should not have to force it, and it should go almost all the way in. Keep the injector straight and make sure it doesn't rotate.
8. Torque to 44 foot pounds. During this step, if you threaded your nut correctly, it should only move about 1/3 of a turn to get to torque. I rotated a small amount, twice, to check that the injector was still in the same spot before hitting the torque.
9. Install the gasket around the top of the injector nut. I used a small pick to get them down in there.
10. Sit back and admire your shiny new parts.

I then installed the fuel overflow line onto the injectors. It took me a bit because after kicking around in my garage for 6 months, and being put to sandpaper to clean up, it must have gotten slightly bent. The holes didn't line up, and specifically one was pretty bad. It bends fairly easily to get it to line up though. I cleaned all the bolts in parts cleaner and blew everything out with 100psi to make sure not grit or dirt was in any of the holes. Again, be clean about it! You don't want to trash your shiny new fuel system! The bolts are torqued to 80 INCH pounds, which isn't a lot.

Now I can put my thermostat housing back on that I had to pull off to get the #1 injector in. I also cleaned up (for the most part) the G56 case after getting those dang detents back in. I'll be happy if I never have to do that again! Picture time!!
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post #82 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Injector Install Continued

More pictures...
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post #83 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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Injector Install Continued

Last one...more on the G56 later.

Anybody got a link to teach me how to upload photos so they aren't all jacked up?
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