Next up was this pile o' parts:
That is my round pattern 205, all cleaned up and ready to re-assemble.
By this time I had acquired an audience of sorts:
With my pal the dragonfly watching my back I worked on getting the t-case assembled. One thing I never liked with the 205 was the fact that the shifter shafts would get grooves rusted in them right at the seal, which would often cause some leakage, and mine were in pretty bad shape
New ones are available, but they are spendy and still made out of steel. So, I ordered some .750 ground rod in 17-4PH stainless steel. Then I carefully blueprinted the stock shafts (minus the rust grooves) and gave the rod and the blueprints to Todd. A week later I had a set of stainless steel 205 shifter shafts. I actually modified the blueprint to make the shafts twin-stickable. Might as well, right? Never know when I might need to do a front dig
The shafts were machined, but still needed to be heat treated. The nice thing about 17-4 is the simple heat treat: 900°F for one hour then air cool. Since it is a precipitation hardening alloy there is no oil quench or temper steps needed. That made it extra easy to do myself in my little heat treat oven. Here's the result:
The cool color is the thin layer of chromium oxide that forms at 900°F in air. I was going to Scotch-Brite it off, but I decided it looked cool so I left it alone.
About this time the Law Of Murphy kicked in. Turns out, the stock shafts measured .748" not because of loose tolerances, but because the bores in the shift forks were reamed to EXACTLY .750"! Actually, they were .7497" when measured with a dial bore, while my precision ground 17-4 stainless rod mic'd at .7504 after heat treat. A press fit. Which makes it essentially impossible to assemble :dohh: Luckily, the bores in the case were bigger, so the shafts fit there. They were a bit sticky without oil, but with oil they were perfect.
I chose a [cough]crude hack[/cough] simple, expedient method of enlarging the bores in the forks:
Good to go!
The next item to address were the front and rear flanges. The rear flange was a High Angle Driveline unit from my 241. I had originally ordered it for a 205, but decided to run the 241 behind the 465. The 241 uses a smaller diameter seal surface, so I had to turn down and sand the seal area on the flange to fit. Somehow, I stepped on my crank and made it a bit undersized. It still contacted the seal, but barely. The result was a profuse weep that would slowly coat the area above the flange with a thin coat of ATF. Yay.... Since I intended to re-use the $100 flange with the 205, I needed a seal that would fit the seal retainer in the 205 AND properly fit the flange. No-go. There were seals that fit the 205 retainer ID and fit what the OD of the flange sealing surface was SUPPOSED to be, but none that would fit one a few thou undersize
Then there was the front Saginaw flange that had a nice fat groove right where the seal runs. The groove was caused by... (drumroll) rust! Not wear. Just like the shafts, it gets water spray and seldom moves, so it rusts right at the seal. I had a couple options with the front: the cheapest and easiest was to use a seal with a thinner body that I could set back a bit so it would ride on a groove-free part of the flange. Or, I could buy a new Saginaw flange. Or, I could buy a 32 spline $100 HAD flange like I had on the rear (I put a 32 spline front output in during the rebuild
It was at this point a had a "Duh!" moment. Speedi-sleeves! Use Speedi-sleeves dood! And that is exactly what I did:
These are slick. They repair grooved shafts, giving a new, wear-resistant sealing surface with a perfect surface finish for best sealing and wear. They're also made of stainless steel, so no rust grooves! :thumbs: Since they are several thou in thickness they will also fix my slightly undersize rear flange. Perfect!
Here's how they work: First you put the part on and make a mark just above the seal, so you know how far to drive the sleeve on:
Then, put some anaerobic sealant (or Hylomar in my case) on the shaft and drive the seal into position with a hammer and the included driver tool:
Next you need to remove the flange that the installer tool drives against. You snip it with a set of cutters:
Then break it free with a pair of pliers and peel it off around the pre-scored line:
Clean off whatever goo you used as sealant:
And verify your handiwork:
The front Saginaw flange got the same treatment: