In tank pump - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
98.5-02 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect..NO ADVERTISING .

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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2020, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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In tank pump

Just replaced my VP44. Bought an engine mounted lift pump. How do I get rid of the in tank pump? Does anyone sell just the tank module minus the pump? Thanks

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2020, 03:44 PM
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Welcome along. These trucks don't have a lift pump in the tank. They use a Carter 12 volt lift pump that you'll find on the drivers side rear of the engine. Unless someone has modified it previously.

Am I the only one who knows everything?

01 3500 Dually Q.CAB, Quad Adr.,pulse, 4" straight stainless exhaust, air dog FP 150 fuel preporator, half inch draw straw and fuel lines.Rancho 5000 shocks rear, 9 way adjustable up front, 3.55 rear end.DIY built DTT trans, triple disc low stall Goerand tc,billet flex plate and input shaft, DTT shift kit, Holset HX40W 60/65/16 turbo(stock turbo propping the door open)125hp DAP injectors pushing on the pistons, BHAF and more to come
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2020, 07:49 PM
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If I'm not mistaken, some 2nd gen and 3rd gen had in-tank lift pump. My '99 had the block mounted Carter lift pump and I got rid of that thing 12 years ago and installed a Raptor. Went from 5psi Carter and dialed in 12psi on the frame mount Raptor. DON'T put an engine mount Carter on there, you'll be replacing that VP-44 again real soon. Get a Fass or Raptor or Air Dog etc. lift pump. You can buy a fuel sending unit to replace that in-tank unit, got to drop the tank or remove the bed, that takes 2 people though. I'm a woman and I replaced my sending unit myself, empty fuel out and unbolt that plastic dolphin, it's so light it won't hurt you. I removed the rear wheel and was able to shimmy in there for the line disconnects before dropping the tank. Here is a little info about your question, do a search of this forum and you'll find a lot of info. I.E. https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...bypassing.html This is a good little vid too.
forgive me if I have given faulty information, I'm just a girl.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2020, 07:51 PM
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Also, give us some info on your truck, add it to your signature.

Mostly Stock 1999 Ram 2500 Quad Cab 4X4 Short bed, 24V, 5 speed manual, NV4500HD, NV241HD, model 60 and 80 Dana Diffs, Luke's Link, Raptor RP-100. BIG-D steering brace.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-14-2020, 02:03 AM
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Some 01 and then 02 had in tank pump. And many prior ones were replaced with the in tank pump conversion kit. To go back to frame or block mounted you have to get an old style module for external pump or modify with a separate draw straw or sump. Google or search here.
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99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-14-2020, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfish95971 View Post
Some 01 and then 02 had in tank pump. And many prior ones were replaced with the in tank pump conversion kit. To go back to frame or block mounted you have to get an old style module for external pump or modify with a separate draw straw or sump. Google or search here.
Exactly what he said ^^

Some 98.5-02 were updated from the dealer with an in-tank carter lift pump, the reason the dealer did this was because the factory carter on the side of the block was weak and since it had to PULL fuel from the tank it put extra stress on an already weak pump which made them fail often or have low pressure to the VP44..

The In-Tank pump was born.. The dealer would take off your block mounted pump and install a block-off plate and the they would add a new carter pump in the sending unit of your fuel tank. Purpose of this was that it would now PUSH the fuel to the engine instead of PULL like the OEM engine mounted pump did... This allowed for higher fuel pressure and better pump longevity but they still aren't that great.

What you can do if you already purchased your DDRP pump like a fass or air-dog then you can install that where the dealer has installed the block off plate.. Once installed you will wanna get a BEANS sump unit.. this unit gets mounted to the BOTTOM of your fuel tank.. You then would run a new rubber line FROM the sump TO your new DDRP pump.. and your done.. Just make sure to unplug your in-tank pump harness so that its not getting power anymore and plug back in your original pump power/harness back into the engine mounted lift pump and you should be all set! So in reality you basically just bypassing the in-tank pump which is a much easier and cost effective alternative to dropping the tank and replacing it with an oem sending unit or draw straw kit.


I am currently planning to do this EXACT same thing to my truck, i have a 99 cummins 24v with the updated in-tank pump as well, i have a BHAF, Res delete and a edge juice with attitude and i run on 5x5 with the stock carter in-tank pump! People always say these pumps are garbage but im gettin 13psi at idle and 12-13 at cruise and with the peddle to the floor i still see 8-9psi which is perfectly fine with me.. As long as you keep an eye on it and your pressures aren't too bad then you should be ok but just know that you ARE on borrowed time because carter pumps don't last very long but its still cheaper to replace a carter every 1-2 years then spend $800 on a full lift pump upgrade kit but that's just my opinion.

All this being said i WILL be upgrading my lift pump in the near future just for the peace of mind alone ...its just no longer first on my list to do but plan to do it sometime in the next year.

Hope this helps!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-14-2020, 02:51 PM
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Correct... The 1998-2002 trucks came factory with an engine mounted Carter lift pump. The only trucks with the in-tank system were retrofitted at the dealer as a TSB.

If you want to install an aftermarket fuel pump system you can buy another fuel module without the fuel pump or you can take apart your fuel module, remove the fuel pump, and install a drawstraw in place of the fuel pump lines.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-14-2020, 07:24 PM
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Exactly. And that is why I concur with the chap at Thoroughbred Diesel, lots and lots and lots of in-tank pumps found their way onto 2nd gens. All good advice but don't be afraid to drop the tank, it's easy-peasy. Be advised that lots of the 2nd gen's had sending units that go bad at the rheostatic windings creating a 'quarter tank syndrome'. Fuel gauge will read that there is considerable fuel when there actually is none. Truck dies, fuel gauge reads 1/4 to 1/2 full but is actually bone dry. So there you are troubleshooting for every problem in the book and not getting any satisfaction. You're simply out of fuel and your gauge is lying to you. Don't need to ask me how I know that......so I don't know if your present sending unit is the crummy one or not. Probably not or it should have broken years ago. I personally would pull the tank and inspect and test and replace if necessary 'cause it might save you grief down the road, no pun intended. If so, be nice to the little cheap nasty plastic fuel line fittings, many an impatient mechanic has snapped those things off. They can be removed much easier with the aid of zip ties holding the little tabs in. Last word, if you don't have an onboard mounted fuel pressure gauge, get one. I have 2, one mounted in the little cubby hole in the dash (use copper tube not plastic) and one on the fuel filter housing, it doesn't hurt to be redundant in that matter.

Mostly Stock 1999 Ram 2500 Quad Cab 4X4 Short bed, 24V, 5 speed manual, NV4500HD, NV241HD, model 60 and 80 Dana Diffs, Luke's Link, Raptor RP-100. BIG-D steering brace.
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