Difference between rear axle in my 97 DRW 3500 and my 00 DRW 3500? - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Difference between rear axle in my 97 DRW 3500 and my 00 DRW 3500?

One of the disadvantages of having a loud and exhaust on my truck... can't hear when things are going out... Apparently I have had a bearing going out in my 00's rear axle for a while now and never even knew it. This caused my axle to break on my way to work last night. The axle housing got hot enough to completely disfigure the end of the housing and now has a 1" offset from the weight of the truck on what I assume to be a red hot axle housing.
I need to get this truck back up asap and I have a 97 with a good rear axle just sitting here. However, in my research for the past few hours, I haven't seen any reman or new axle housings that cover the years 97-00. Everything I am seeing is showing 94-97 and 98-01. Does anyone know of any difference between the axles in the 97's and the axles in the 00's that would cause me to not be able to use the one from my 97 in the 00? I have checked the measurements and as far as I can tell, it looks like it'll work but, I hate to get halfway into the swap to figure out I've just been wasting my time.
Just to be clear, from what I can tell, both axles are DANA 80's with drum brakes, offset shocks, and same dimensions.
Any help will be much appreciated.

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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The disfigured axle housing
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Also, I am pretty certain that this has been broken long enough to get enough of the metal trash into the chunk and basically destroy everything inside. The only reason I even found this was because I completely lost all forward and reverse movement in the truck while I was on the interstate last night so, I figure the chunk is going to be toast as well. 😖😖
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Correction... 96-99 and 00-01 are what I am finding reman axle assemblies listed as.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019, 08:21 PM
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For the heck of it I just checked the brake drum listing for a 2000, and it is used only on 2000-01.
So I would say the 2001 might have different spindle and hub dimensions. The backing plate and brakes are probably different also.
I'd say as long as your yoke, spring pad dimension, outer hub face dimension(wheel mounting surfaces), hub diameter, & lug pattern are the same it would probably work. You'll just have to remember that you have a 2000 rear whenever you need brakes or internal parts.
I'm not familiar with the wheel sensor locations. That may have something to do with it also.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Good to know about the different sizes on the brakes. I haven't seen any wheel sensors on either of the axles but, I did notice that the emergency brake cables on the 97 come into the drum brake shield from the rear of the truck and the ones on the 00 come in from the front of the truck. The main cable that connects the 2 cables seems to still be in the same location along the side of the frame rail so, I am hoping I'll be able to just use the longer cables off the 97 and everything still work out.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-07-2019, 10:10 AM
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I have an 00 and it has drum brakes. A friend has an 01 with disk brakes. I would look into installing new axle seals while it is on the bench. I bought Spicer seals for the front from Denny's drive shaft. He was good to deal with. I should have bought the correct installer that fits the seals instead of using generic seal installers. Change the brakes and cylinders then at least check the backlash so you don't have to go back in. Fix your exhaust. It helped cause your PPM.

My friends and I are getting old but ride our bicycles between 4,000 & 6,000 mi/year. We listen to exhausts of vehicles approaching from behind and have concluded "the louder the exhaust, the bigger the aszhole. No one thinks your loud exhaust is cool other than you. It's more of "all show and no go".
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-07-2019, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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I am actually in the middle of opening the chunk that was in the 97 so I can go completely through it and make sure I'm not just going to have problems anytime soon again. Next will be all new hardware and brake shoes as well as the seals for the yoke and axle tubes before I install it under the truck.
As for the exhaust, its 5" stainless all the way out the back of the truck with no leaks between. It just has a pretty loud drone and with the Phatshaft 62 I put in a few weeks ago, there is an extremely loud turbo whistle in the cab as well. My intention in the near future is to add a s474 to work with the phatshaft so the truck needs to be able to breathe and a muffler is going to be out of the question.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 05:02 AM
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Do they have the same speed sensor on the axle? Same ratio 355 or 410. If yours is elsewhere, it does not matter the the replacement does. The pinion yokes may be different for manual vs automatic. Check measurements and u-joint sizes. Maybe look for used one for $200-750.
Car-part.com for wrecking yards and Craig's list.
Never seen anything like that gone that bad. You need new exhaust back on and hearing aids.

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Haha!! Yeah, my wife is always telling me I need the hearing aids!! As far as the speed sensor in the differential housing goes, they are slightly different but located in the same places on the housings and have the same mounts and both go into the housing the same distance so, my plan is to remove the one from the 97 housing and just install the original one in the 2000 back in its place. Both are 3.54 gears so there should be no problems there. The only challenges I have run into so far are the brake sizes are different, which isnt a problem as long as I remember the rear is a 97 when ordering any parts for it, and the parking brake cables are slightly different going into the brake drum shields but they have the same connection right behind the cab so I can also just use the same cables from the 97 up to the back of the cab to solve that issue. I'm about halfway through the job of rebuilding the 97 differential and also am installing new shoes, hardware, and drums before putting it under the 00. I'm not seeing any major issues that'll cause it to not work and, I'm actually liking the idea of having the larger diameter brakes, even though disc brakes would be more desirable. I just cant see paying the 1500$ for the disc brake conversion kit when all it consists of that most people wouldn't be able to source themselves is the brackets. The rotors, calipers, pads, and lines can easily be sourced from a parts store or a junk yard and I could very easily build brackets to mount the calipers. That's for another time though. For now, I just need to get this truck back otr and making some money. I'll update once the install is complete and I'm back otr.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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Also, the yokes and u joints are the same. There are virtually no differences between the two axle assemblies (that I can tell so far) other than brake sizes, speed sensor, and parking brake cable orientation, all of which seems to be manageable in making work out to get me out of this bind and keep from paying almost 3k for a complete axle assembly that doesn't even have brake parts and who knows what kind of parts got put in it when they did the reman.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 09:56 PM
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Glad to hear you are making positive progress. As for the brakes, I'm partial to drum on the rear. Can't stand the way the rotors rot from salt here in the northeast snow(salt)belt. If your trailer brakes are set right your rear brakes don't do enough to warrant disc brakes. I guess the only down side is that unless you drill a view hole in the backing plate, you can usually check your lining thickness much easier on the open discs versus closed drums.
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