Standard 5 speed - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
98.5-02 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect..NO ADVERTISING .

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Standard 5 speed

Having troubles getting into 1st and rev. I’m thinking pilot bushing ?

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 03:13 AM
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Clutch not releasing all the way due to bad hydraulics?

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 03:32 AM
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I dealt with mine not wanting 1st/reverse for about 200k miles..assumed thatbwas just how the truck was.
Replaced/upgraded clutch hyrdraulics to southbends upgrade for the nv4500.....couldnt believe what a big diff proper hyrdraulic pressure made

2001 2500 5spd, 4" straight pipe, fass titanium series, mach1.6 injectors, CAI, adrenaline, southbend dual-friction, 2011 fto wheels
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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My clutch engages and disengages on the top side of half way. Seems plenty of throw to disengage it
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 02:34 PM
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Try shifting in and out of 4th before reverse or 1st. Usually twists the main shaft a tad and reverse will slide in. Reverse is non synchronized. 1st shares the synchronizer with 2nd. Shifting into 2nd usually helps for back to 1st.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Yes it helps go in better 4 th to rev , I think rev is sync’d cause it goes in rev rolling forward without grinding
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 06:32 PM
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I just got south bend dd and southbend hydros in my 98 and its a booger to get into gear from a stop but was really easy before the clutch. I have about half pedal before disengagement and seems like it should be about right. Maybe I need to adjust mine too

1998 12v, 4x4, Club Cab, Carli, Thuren, BlueTop, Core 4x4, BD Diesel, PDD 5x.012, South Bend
2012 Laramie Longhorn, EFI by Ryan, Carli, Thuren
1995 Dually, Weston's 5x.016, 4k GSK, 5" FloPro, 255/85r16 Toyo M/T, Goerend, ARP, 60# Springs, BW 62/65/14, BW 75/96/1.10, Isspro, Fass 125, BDP Sump, 7mm DV's, 751 HP 1883 FP Torque on NOS
1998 P-Pumped 24v, 4x4, NV4500 swap
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 07:16 PM
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1st and reverse are always the most difficult... As mentioned, always touch another gear like 4th or 2nd before moving the shifting into 1st. It helps because there's a lot of weight spinning with that big clutch disc and it can be hard to get things lined up. Also, there's a thing called "synchro lockout" which is basically the synchro tips touching and not fully engaging. To help with that, put the truck in neutral with the clutch out and lightly blip the throttle. As the RPM's are dropping down, press the clutch and try again. It usually falls right into gear.

But that said, if there's anything wrong with the clutch assembly, like a dragging pilot, worn or warped disc/pressure plate, worn pressure plate, then it can affect engaging gears. So if it just doesnt want to engage no matter what you do then hydraulics would be first to look at and then the entire clutch assembly.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98whitelightnin View Post
I just got south bend dd and southbend hydros in my 98 and its a booger to get into gear from a stop but was really easy before the clutch. I have about half pedal before disengagement and seems like it should be about right. Maybe I need to adjust mine too
Currently experiencing the same.
I have the upgraded South bend hydros sitting here just haven't got around to installing it.
I'm using the same rebuilt dual disk I used when I had a nv45 and it shifted flawless, so there is a light at the end of the tunnel I believe. Just got to find it.

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99 Ram 3500 SLT 4x4, 19.5's, P24v, ZF6-750, s362/475, 7x0.014, supporting mods.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 02:37 PM
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Update with the South bend hydraulics. After installing and adjusting, it shifts like butter now, no more third to rev combo needed. Just have to get use to the engage point at the top of the travel now.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 06:07 PM
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I went out and adjusted mine out a total of 5 turns and it does not shift any better than before. The clutch pedal is probably up 2" higher than the brake pedal. I turned it back down 3 turns and it feels the same so I left it.

1998 12v, 4x4, Club Cab, Carli, Thuren, BlueTop, Core 4x4, BD Diesel, PDD 5x.012, South Bend
2012 Laramie Longhorn, EFI by Ryan, Carli, Thuren
1995 Dually, Weston's 5x.016, 4k GSK, 5" FloPro, 255/85r16 Toyo M/T, Goerend, ARP, 60# Springs, BW 62/65/14, BW 75/96/1.10, Isspro, Fass 125, BDP Sump, 7mm DV's, 751 HP 1883 FP Torque on NOS
1998 P-Pumped 24v, 4x4, NV4500 swap
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 08:42 PM
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When in doubt, take a minute or two to bleed the hydraulics. You can do it the hard and long way by removing it and hanging it over night. Or you can take a quick short cut.

Grab a mighty vac(or cheap HF knock off) and use a thin attachment or a hollowed out pen. Press it in the bottom of the reservoir and into the line enough to make a seal. Pull a tight vacuum, then pull the pen all the way out of the reservoir really quickly. This will force the hydraulics to take in the fluid.
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'97 ECLB NV4500 compound mufflers, Banks stacked with Edge Juice w/Attitude, throttle sensitivity booster, lockup switch, wastegate delete
'10 VW Golf TDI Dieselgate victim, '06 TDI with too much torque
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