New to Gen2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
98.5-02 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect..NO ADVERTISING .

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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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New to Gen2

A few years ago I had a 92 W250, it was a great truck until the Getrag piled up... had to sell it because I couldn't afford the tow, storage, fix r&r and overhaul.

Now I have been given/inherited a truck that belonged to an older relative, but had spent its last few years in the care(?) of a hired-man. Sadly the truck has been badly neglected, and needs a lot of tlc and little stuff fixed.

Its a 2002 qc shortbed 6spd SLT with cloth seats. Has Fass pump/filter setup and AFE cold air intake. Probably had a chip/tumer but its been removed by PO. 330,000 kms on odometer.

A partial list of stuff to do...
1. HVAC doesnt work turn it on and the fan makes a clunk-clunk-clunk noise
2. power seat doesn't work
3. pass side door power window switch messsed-up and busted inside door panel
4. dripping diesel from front Fass filter when running
5. front bumper smushed in about an inch, pinching ac condenser
6. big square hole sawzalled in floor of bed, PO had a 7" stack on exhaust, has been returned to factory exhaust
7. none of the rear lights work, they blink in and out
8. rust over rear wheel arches and cab-corners and lower drivers door
9. vent hose out bottom of engine blows alot of air/smoke
10. looks like heater core was leaking, hoses cut and spliced together bypassing heater core
11. front sway bar unhooked, rear sway bar missing completely
12. e-brake cables zip-disked off at brake backing plates
13. some sort of remote starter installed, seems to be inactive, but who knows when it will take control and mess-up my day.

So definitely a project and a half.

Thinking about giving up and parting out, and thinking about fixing it up to be a driving-truck.

I am not a "modify to go fast" type, but I do like the idea of "modify to be more reliable" as in the Fass pump/filter setup.

I will be looking for advice from the veterans, first off where to start looking for a vacuum leak, and how to replace a leaky heater core.

Anyone have a vacuum hose diagram?

Thanks,
Jiggs.

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 03:39 AM
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First step, open wallet and check contents. If not substantial and lots of time available, sell it to junk yard. That is where it belongs. Mileage and blow by may be fine, eliminate AFE if possible.
Next if plenty of money and time is available, Make parts list, go to Junkyard(maybe Pick and pull) and check Rockauto for prices and set priorities and schedule, go from there.
Body parts and interior, except dash cluster, off of half tons are usable.

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Bigfish, yes, finding a source of parts other than the dealer makes life with one of these things more affordable. There is a pick-n-pull yard close to here, so I will be building my list to go there.

I'm hoping that with attention to the things that need attention, and some diligent maintenance, I can make this poor old thing into a decent - albeit not the most shiny/pretty - driver. I only drive about 10,000 km (6,000 mi) per year, so it shouldn't take much to bring this old girl into shape to go 60,000 more miles and do me for several years.

Unfortunately, in Canada the online parts stores don't offer much price advantage over Napa or Parts-Source.

Yes, the wallet will have to be way thicker than what it took to keep my 91 Toyota on the road for the 20 years I had it.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 11:49 AM
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Sounds like a fun project. I did heater core in mine a few weeks ago. I used one with swivel tubes and it was pretty easy.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 02:14 PM
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RockAuto is very competitive to Napa or Part Source. Just be sure to factor in shipping. I am in Alberta and use Rockauto before those stores if I can afford the wait time.

I am somewhat in the same boat with my current truck and the shape I bought it in. Seems like I fix one thing just to notice another.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 02:28 AM
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Look for other junk yards. Many pick n pulls never have diesels. Hope it is better up there.
check Car-pats.com
Rockauto is A LOT better than those local stores, even after freight, not accounting for the middle of nowhere Canada or Alaska.
They have all the brand names and many store type brands for HALF the price at Napa.

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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Digging into the rear brakes...

The calipers and disks seem fine, lots of pad left and right, inside and out, pads seem to be wearing evenly and not crooked.

E-brake cables zip-disked off just outside the backing plates. Got it all apart, and theres still lining on the shoes, and things don't seem bad, not sure why the cables got zip disked, unless they got seized and rusted and stayed applied. I didn't note the cable inside the sheath where it was zip-disked, ie if the cable had sucked into the drum after being cut, or if the shoes stayed applied against the drums and eventually wore away.

Anyways, with a healthy amount of lining remaining on the shoes, I think I'm going to put these shoes back in and put in new cables and hope it works.

And of course, the release handle is busted and theres a piece of haywire sticking out above the handle. Something else to look for at the scrapyard.

There seems to be alot less "parts and levers" inside these drums, I don't see any provision for self adjusting. Or did the po take out some stuff? Or am I missing something?

There is a local scrapper with two un-rusted correct coloured doors. It is a regular-cab half ton with manual windows. Mine is quad-cab with power windows. Will the doors swap? I know there may be lots of parts to swap, changing parts doesn't scare me but un-welding and re-welding braces inside doors will be beyond me, if thats whats required to swap power windows into cranky doors.

Onward....
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 01:51 AM
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A partial list of stuff to do...
1. HVAC doesnt work turn it on and the fan makes a clunk-clunk-clunk noise
Maybe its a broken door in the heater box. maybe a rodent got in. check when replacing heater core.

2. power seat doesn't work
Unbolt bottom cushion, check for voltage with test light. If no voltage, repair or replace switch after checking fuse. If voltage take motors apart, might need brushes, check connections. I repaired mine, its easy.
3. pass side door power window switch messsed-up and busted inside door panel

4. dripping diesel from front Fass filter when running
5. front bumper smushed in about an inch, pinching ac condenser
6. big square hole sawzalled in floor of bed, PO had a 7" stack on exhaust, has been returned to factory exhaust
7. none of the rear lights work, they blink in and out
8. rust over rear wheel arches and cab-corners and lower drivers door
9. vent hose out bottom of engine blows alot of air/smoke
check for vacuum leak from vacuum pump, repair, these cause blow by on older truck.

10. looks like heater core was leaking, hoses cut and spliced together bypassing heater core
11. front sway bar unhooked, rear sway bar missing completely
12. e-brake cables zip-disked off at brake backing plates
13. some sort of remote starter installed, seems to be inactive, but who knows when it will take control and mess-up my day.

Best plan........RUN, RUN very fast, this saves wallet from irreversible damage.

2000, 2500 4X4 LB, Adrenalin 6X11 injectors, 62-68/12 FMW, 4" exhaust, 2012 T steering, Allison transmission, w/271 Transfer case, 19.5 wheels and tires, 3rd gen brakes, DT Radius Arms, Hamilton 188/208 cam, studs, 19.5-1 pistons, Dana 80, 60 Gal fuel tank, +.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 12:39 PM
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Sounds like you have decided to fix it. If i was in your position I would do a cost/benefit analysis before sinking any money or time into the truck. Unfortunately these trucks are only worth so much $$ no mater how well taken care of and yours sounds like it was severely neglected. These trucks arenít that hard to work on but they do have lots and lots of things that can cause problems.
The suspension and steering will likely need rebuilding too. Be ready to spend a lot of time tracking down gremlins for a while. Especially electrical issues related to bad grounds.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I have decided to fix it...

In this area, Gen2's in nice shape with 200k miles are still bringing $10k. And thats with auto-trans.

This one is the uncommon 6spd.

So yes, I've thought through the cost and benefits. I could spend $10k on a nice one, that still needs (soon) what I will put into this one; brakes, suspension parts, and lots of tidying up.

Its had a Fass-pump since 2004, so the VP44 should be OK for a while.

If the engine craters, I'm screwed. That would be the case with a $10k nice truck.

I do most of my own work, so $2k will buy alot of parts, filters and oil.

I may bondo-over the rusty cab corner, and bed-liner gloss-black from the lower body line down, about 10" up from the bottom of the door, and over the wheel-arches. Use some rubber or plastic fender flare extensions to cover up the requisite rust on the top of the wheel arches. It won't be beautiful, but I'm just going for less-ugly and functional.

But the bottom-line is that I don't have an inevitable auto-trans overhaul $$$ in my future. And I have the more useful/desireable manual-shift truck.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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By the way, anyone know how to replace dash-top panel?

I went to the pick-n-pull and got the dash-top panel, the one in my truck has a big hole cracked in it.

I was thinking I would check out how to remove the dash-top-panel at the pick-n-pull. However, when I got to the pick-n-pull, the whole dash had been hacked out of the truck and was sitting on the back, removing the dash-top panel took like 5 minutes and all the screws were exposed except the three or four hiding under the edge of the passenger side airbag cover. So while it was way less work, I didn't learn any tricks or how-to's on the pick-n-pull truck where an oops is not costly.

So since I didn't learn anything about removing the dash-top panel at the pick-n-pull, I'm hoping someone on this forum has swapped-out their trashed-out-by-the-sun dash-top panel and can advise me on the how-to.

And while I'm after the dash-top panel, I hope some of the stuff I take off makes it easier to do the heater core.

Thanks in advance.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 04:00 AM
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For the heater core...search for the quickest heater core replacement method.
I did it myself, having never done one before. Was finished in under an hour. Been 7yrs now, 150k miles later, and still no issues with it.
Short story, it involves cutting the heater core lines , flaring the ends, and using quality hose clamps from Fastenal.

2001 2500 5spd, 4" straight pipe, fass titanium series, mach1.6 injectors, CAI, adrenaline, southbend dual-friction, 2011 fto wheels
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