There was somebody here last month that reported using an external crank sensor mounted by the harmonic balancer. Is the old cylinder not repairable? Can't find another block and trade for it?
The '99 block with a bad cylinder is a 53 so I didn't want to put too much $$$ into it. I already bought a wrecked 01 for the engine and so far not much luck finding good non 53's for a reasonable price locally.
wow, I found someone in the same situation as myself.
well, if you're going to do a motor swap you might as well do it right. lucky for you, you have everything you need to swap it all over.
I have a 99 2500 with a 53 block, I got the truck for a steal and then, and currently, nothing is wrong with it.
but I ended up resourcing a complete engine from a 2002.
all of then 2nd gen engine blocks have the hole for the crank sensor, I work at a diesel shop and actually did this vary swap for a customer, anyways I got lucky and he left the old engine for us. so I stole the crankshaft out of it because it has a the reluctor wheel for the CPS. I then installed that into my 2002 engine. those cranks are identical minus the wheel.
I have a ton of info on my own build if you have any questions or have any advise to share !
So you prety much just had to swap cranks and add a crank position sensor? I was hoping not to have to tear down the engines, especially if I could get by with adding an external crank position sensor. However, I will be swapping oil pans so maybe I should swap the cranks?
Feel free to post any info and pics you have on it here as any solid info would be helpful for me and anyone else that comes across this thread in the same situation.
I guess the first thing I am going to work on is getting a gantry lift setup, I think I have pretty much decided to go ahead and pull both cabs to make swapping the engine/transmission assemblies easier and also give the frame a good cleaning as there is a heafty coating of built up oil gunk.
notice the cps spot in first pic, not the best because its got tape over it.
this is an 02 block.
the other pic is the tear down and I have the 99 crank laying next it, notice the reluctor wheel on that crank. its for the cps.
Well I've been slowly working on preparing the 01 engine for removal, its all unbolted and ready to pull but trying to figure out a way to get the transmission slid back a bit. Not having a concrete floor to work on sucks
I think you can take out the front radiator support etc and not move the trani or bring it out together. Plywood and a trani jack might work. Even a floor jack and straps. I made a trani jack by bolting a piece of plywood to a floor jack and adding some straps and blocks to R&R the TC.
You can lower the trani and TC so you have an angle to pull up the engine.
I would mark the position of the torque converter to the flywheel and unbolt the flywheel.
Some will say you don't need to mark the position, I say why not, only takes a few seconds.
I use the Cummins barring tool to rotate the engine, less chance of breaking a tooth on the flywheel prying on it.
If you leave the converter in the trans you have less chance of damaging the transmission and you can't afford to add anything to have to slide the engine forward for clearance.
Have not done it but I expect that less forward travel of the engine would be required and less mess if you unbolt it. Not hard to do with a pry bar rotation and dust cover off.
I would leave the converter in the trans. I ratchet strapped the front of my trans up so I could roll the truck around with no engine. Pull the cooler stack, bumper, core support, jack up the engine, pulled the mounts off of the block and out it came, basically. 4wd truck. They are very tight under the cowl when coming out. You may have to remove the rocker cover and put a blanket over it to buy more room.
On my 2wd. I removed the rocker cover and the two rear cylinder rocker arms and push rods as per the FSM.
There is a hole under the cowl for removing/replacing the push rods as per the FSM.
I hooked a chain as short as I could from the two lifting points and used an engine leveler.
It was tight clearance with the motor mounts on the block but I made it.
If you remove the motor mounts, pay close attention to there orientation, I remember reading they can go on wrong and look correct until you can't figure out why you can't get the engine to sit in place.
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