Lock up switch options - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
98.5-02 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect..NO ADVERTISING .

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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2018, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
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Lock up switch options

I got a few questions guys.
I been reading for a couple hours still am not sure I guess wiring is just not my thing. I need a wiring for Dumies guid.

First off I.D like to say Iím geting a built trans from fire punk Iím wiring this switch before I get the trans.

When I started geting into it I read a bunch DO NOT CUT THE ORANGE/blk wire from tsm. Looks like previous owner had done this before but he cut the wire crimped them a male connector. Iím guessing the lock up wire would have a female n the how he connected it. Wired thing is there is no sign of a switch.
That Being said is this messed up?

Next I.D like to hook up a lock up switch but still retain factory locking n unlocking with the switch off for when my wife drives the truck how Can I do this?

Also with the switch If u donít want locked shifts is there anyway to have it unlock with out fliping the switch off before a shift?
If thatís not possible before the shift if I flip the switch to unlock before the shift will the converter unlock right before the shift?

Im just not to sure on how this works. No this is covered so many times but I seem to not be ale to find those awnsers or if I do Iím not understanding it. N one I found seemed to be for 47rh where it was a 3 point switch Manual lock/factory/disengage converter in factory setting.

My biggest concern is that wire cut n what I should do to fix that before I get the new tranny. Thanks Guys


99 dodge 2500, 9" skyjack lng arm, Fass 160, quadzilla v2,arp Head studs,
Firepunk comp1 trans, 100hp injectors, 4" str8 pipe, axel dump, Bhaf. Stock turbo ~~~~~~~~~~It's not a build if it ends~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2018, 04:04 AM
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What is the purpose you want a lockup switch for?

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2018, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Mainly to put power to the ground when I want it and to keep my temps down when Iím hauling in traffic.

99 dodge 2500, 9" skyjack lng arm, Fass 160, quadzilla v2,arp Head studs,
Firepunk comp1 trans, 100hp injectors, 4" str8 pipe, axel dump, Bhaf. Stock turbo ~~~~~~~~~~It's not a build if it ends~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2018, 04:21 AM
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I am not sure that you can achieve lockup in 2nd at all, some say yeas and some say no. You get lockup in third by simple turning OD off in town and you get lockup at about 28-30 mph in third.

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2018, 05:17 AM
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Yes you can get lockup in 2nd.
Using a lockup switch does two great things. First, it puts a amazing amount more power to the wheels. The converter robs a lot of go!
The second benefit is to stop the truck from unlocking the converter every time you let off the throttle and relocking when you use any throttle again.
On a stock trans that may not be a big deal but if you have a built trans with high line pressure and a triple disc converter, it is. The converter slams in pretty hard.

If you have the button on, it’s gonna shift locked. It’s not as violent as you’d think, the converter hitting lockup is a harder hit.
I rarely do that, it’s gotta be really hard on the trans parts and I wouldn’t recommend you run around shifting locked either.

The trans doesn’t lock in 1st. If you hit the button while in Drive at a stop, nothing happens. When you take off, it will go through 1st like normal, then lock as it hits 2nd, and stay locked as it hits 3rd and 4th.

Unless you have your foot on the floor, it will shift way early.
If you take the gearshift out of “Drive” and manually select 2nd, the lockup switch won’t work.
There’s a valvebody modification that will allow it to lock manually in 2nd.
Ask Firepunk if they already did it for you.

When the lock button is on, the trans doesn’t want to downshift.
If you’re in 4th and hit your “OD Off” button on the end of the gearshift, it won’t work. You have to turn the lockup switch off to get it to drop down to 3rd.

It’s pretty hard to drive the truck and unlock before every shift, since you don’t have control of exactly when the auto shifts.

The other main use for the switch is using an exhaust brake. The (annoying as hell) way the Dodge unlocks the converter whenever you let off the throttle makes an exhaust brake worthless, you need to be able to keep it locked. That’s my most frequent use of “the button”.

About your cut wire... well, it’s already cut, short of replacing the wiring harness I guess you just solder and heat shrink it back together.

When you turn off your manual lock button, the trans works exactly like stock.

I believe the best thing is to use a headlight-dimmer-style floor button, on the left side. I screwed mine to a heavy rubber big-truck mudflap that I cut to fit my floor. It just sits under my regular floormat and I didn’t have to put holes in my floor, and I could slide it around and find the best spot for the button. It never moves and is nice and solid. Operating lockup with your left foot is totally natural like using a clutch pedal.

All this is why people swap in Allison transmissions. That’s what I wish I had done.
Drive a Chevy that has one and you’ll see what I mean, they just put all the power to the wheels, automatically. Without all this messing around.
eforbes and Syco67 like this.

'99 QC 4x4 Dually.
In the near future Iím ripping out all the electronic junk and P-pumping it.
Built trans, Gear Vendors overdrive, Kelderman Air Ride
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2018, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all that great info. My OF button is really hard to Push think I could set that on a switch too?

Ye firepunk said all there trans can achieve lock up in 2nd gear. Iím purchasing the comp stage one which has billet input n outputs so I think locked shift wonít be to much of a problem if Iím not hammering the throttle.
Just cruising light throttle maybe it should be okay. I sill donít want it banging into gear tho. I wants this trans to last the life of the truck!

I thought by removing the relay that will not allow the truck to lock up factory style at any time. So when the switch is off it will still lock n unlock on its own?

99 dodge 2500, 9" skyjack lng arm, Fass 160, quadzilla v2,arp Head studs,
Firepunk comp1 trans, 100hp injectors, 4" str8 pipe, axel dump, Bhaf. Stock turbo ~~~~~~~~~~It's not a build if it ends~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2018, 02:43 PM
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My manual TC lockup switch will disengage the TC when I apply the brake, other than that, it's locked up. Also - it's a good idea to put a light on the dash somewhere that lets you know when it's locked up. Even driving it in a stock config (switch is off) the light comes on when TC locks up.

---
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2000 Ram 2500 4x4 SLT Laramie (SOLD)
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2018, 02:47 PM
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Yep it behaves exactly stock when the switch is off.
It’s pretty cool, if you take off in locked mode at around 1/4 throttle the truck actually moves ahead like you were at 1/2 or 3/4 throttle in regular “mush” mode. You just have to get the hang of it, if you’re going too slow or too easy on the gas it’ll shift itself way too early with the lock button on.

I have a time share place on Kauai but I think we are coming to the big island sometime this year since I’ve never been there.
If I do I’ll hit you up to tell a haole from Seattle where to go, or where NOT to go haha. Maybe not so much an issue with that like on Oahu?
At any rate it’s good to know at least one person, I only have friends on Kauai (and one on Oahu).

'99 QC 4x4 Dually.
In the near future Iím ripping out all the electronic junk and P-pumping it.
Built trans, Gear Vendors overdrive, Kelderman Air Ride
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2018, 04:00 PM
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Yep, a light ends up being almost essential because you will lose track of whether you have the button on or off, especially if you use a dimmer-switch type floor button.
Since you’re switching a ground wire on and off, put an LED somewhere and wire constant (ignition-switched) 12V + to it, and supply it with 12V - from your lockup switch.

It will also light up when the truck’s computer calls for lockup, which defeats the purpose of the light, you can’t tell if your switch is on or off.
The easy remedy for that is to put a diode inline with the wire coming from the ECM to the lockup switch.
That will block ground signal coming from the ECM getting to the light and switch, but will allow ground coming from your switch TO the ECM and your lamp.

Y2K17RAM I wonder how your switch is wired?? That defeats half the use of the thing. Maybe your 2000 has some sort of difference from my ‘99?

'99 QC 4x4 Dually.
In the near future Iím ripping out all the electronic junk and P-pumping it.
Built trans, Gear Vendors overdrive, Kelderman Air Ride
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-09-2018, 03:01 AM Thread Starter
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Main thing u not one dumb haole haha thatís only reason why they get bad rep on the islands. But if u own a dodge n ur into building it Id lean towards u being a solid brada! hit me up my truck should be up n ruining soon if not for now still got my ricer Tacoma! Haha need to get that sold!

I really like the idea of just having the swtich there for when I wanna use it shoot even if I only test it and never use it at least itís there in case. So I got it all wired up n installed I went with a on off switch near lower left of steering wheel felt most comfortable for how I drive. Hope it works until the trucks up n tuning wonít know. Just doing all my little mods n loose ends while the trans is out n Iím waiting for the new one.
I canít wait to feel what my new quadzilla new 200hp injectors n new comp 1 firepunk trans feels like! Itís going to be a drastic change! N she is riding in some crazy silly shoes right now 24x12ís with 37ís should be real interesting canít wait to get the turbo then we will see if my engine rebuild n this stitching I did in this 53 block will really hold up. Hope so if not yes I do have a spare block ready for it.
I like the idea of the converter disengaging when u push the brake, but I would probly want it in a separate stage. So u have a 3 position switch 1 factory 2 Manual 3 factory but disengage with braking any one know how to accomplish this wiring.

99 dodge 2500, 9" skyjack lng arm, Fass 160, quadzilla v2,arp Head studs,
Firepunk comp1 trans, 100hp injectors, 4" str8 pipe, axel dump, Bhaf. Stock turbo ~~~~~~~~~~It's not a build if it ends~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-09-2018, 05:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monstermaker View Post
Yep, a light ends up being almost essential because you will lose track of whether you have the button on or off, especially if you use a dimmer-switch type floor button.
Since youíre switching a ground wire on and off, put an LED somewhere and wire constant (ignition-switched) 12V + to it, and supply it with 12V - from your lockup switch.

It will also light up when the truckís computer calls for lockup, which defeats the purpose of the light, you canít tell if your switch is on or off.
The easy remedy for that is to put a diode inline with the wire coming from the ECM to the lockup switch.
That will block ground signal coming from the ECM getting to the light and switch, but will allow ground coming from your switch TO the ECM and your lamp.

Y2K17RAM I wonder how your switch is wired?? That defeats half the use of the thing. Maybe your 2000 has some sort of difference from my Ď99?
So anyone got some input on my OD button on my Colum shift? It sucks I gota push it supper hard for it to work. I tried messing with it but no luck. Iím to the point where I wanna rewire it to a button. Has anyone done this or read a thread about doing it, that I can go off of. I donít mind having some nice switches mounted up if there all the same n look like the newer style switches I think it looks nice.

I gota do some reading tho on how to get this switches to work for the lock up if not maybe I just leave that one a regualr old sky style switch. I really would like all the switches to light up. Checkers sells ones that have 3 positions n the each position iluminates they give u a sticker sheet of decals so label them. Red/blue nice switches. Sorr rambeling on.
Gonna do a bit more tho ha

My daughter n her mother live in spanaway. I fly up there twice a year to either pick her up or take her home(she is 7 I ainít letting her fly alone). When u come bigislad can your guid u small kine n when I come up there during the summer u can return the favor! That be cherry! Went to two summits checked out the snow last winter a few other stuffs but Ive been wanting to see some of the truck up there n see what kind of stuff You folks get into!
Iíve got my truck basically rigged up to rock crawl n still be a bad diesel, just def not with the shoes on her now got another set for the trail.

Aloha

99 dodge 2500, 9" skyjack lng arm, Fass 160, quadzilla v2,arp Head studs,
Firepunk comp1 trans, 100hp injectors, 4" str8 pipe, axel dump, Bhaf. Stock turbo ~~~~~~~~~~It's not a build if it ends~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-09-2018, 08:22 AM
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Wait, you canít live on one of the islands and NOT have a Taco, can you?!!

'99 QC 4x4 Dually.
In the near future Iím ripping out all the electronic junk and P-pumping it.
Built trans, Gear Vendors overdrive, Kelderman Air Ride
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