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98.5-02 Performance Parts Discussion Discussion of Performance Parts For the 98-02 Trucks No Advertising ...NO ADVERTISING

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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 11:53 AM
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I'm ambivalent about fresh/cold air unless it's at WOT.

At idle/putting around, the engine's just not making enough horse torques to benefit from colder air, and the warmer under hood air does seem to help with fuel atomization in winter.


R12 in the summer, Webasto in the winter; cassette tapes & SAE-20078 all year.
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshinparadise View Post
This is an interesting comment, to me and here's why... I used to race cars, and invariably the filter was not in an ideal place to put a hood scoop for ram air... Our's is situated in a perfect spot to do so... Has anyone seen a ram air set up for our trucks? I'm genuinely curious.

Coming from a racing background, I know that i'm not putting out the kind of horsies to justify something like this, however, an argument can always be made for ANY turbo vehicle that bringing in ambient outside air to the filter will always be better than pre-heated air from the engine bay.
There is no advantage for a "ram air" scoop. Generally all those do is allow direct pathway for dirt, water, and debris. But people think they're great because they remember the old carbureted engine days where shoving air into the plenum was good.

These trucks have a cold(er) air source from the inner fender. And it works too. The only question I ever had was doesnt the dust from the front tire get sucked up right there? Apparently the engineers did a decent job otherwise it would be a problem.

And for those members who keep reiterating that there is NO direct power gain to be had from changing the air filter system. They are absolutely correct because thats not how diesels work... The gain is maintaining cooler intake air to allow for more fueling. Fueling is power but power is heat. Lower the intake charge of more fueling and you help offset the overall EGT's.

That said, back in the early 2000's there was someone who designed and manufactured an enclosed air filter setup which tied into the HVAC cowl air via a 4" hole you had to drill through the firewall. It was called the "Scotty Air System". Did it work?...yes, yes it did as people noted around a 150* reduction in EGT's. The source of air was the best because the cowl is a cool, low pressure, and clean air pocket. The problem is that the turbo noise in the cab became unbearable for most people due to the direct sound pathway of intake noise to HVAC system vents.

So...a BHAF works but need protection from filter damage and also the heat of the neighboring turbo. Yes they will ingest hot engine bay air but its not terrible. Thus a heat shield is very beneficial. I installed a turbo blanket a couple years ago and it was a HUGE improvement in towing EGT's.

'01 2500 Sport 4x4 5spd w/Fastcoolers, Mag-Hytec, EZ, RV275's, 4" w/o muffler, South Bend, Steering brace, aFe, 2 lo kit, Isspro Boost, FP, and EGT on pillar, Westach Trans/Diff temp gauge in dash pod, Raptor 100 w/ 1/2" line, Pac Brake, Rancho 9000, 285's
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 12:15 PM
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And this is why I have a total of 4 heat blankets on my rig, along with the summer setup being - a longer intake tube + partially shielded air filter to draw fresh air from the fender well & front grill opening + a bit more fuel + a bit more advance ;-)
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R12 in the summer, Webasto in the winter; cassette tapes & SAE-20078 all year.
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 12:18 PM
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I've been wanting to get a manifold blanket as well but...its just not high on my stuff to spend money on list. Especially since I think I have my current setup dialed in just fine for everything I ask of my truck.

'01 2500 Sport 4x4 5spd w/Fastcoolers, Mag-Hytec, EZ, RV275's, 4" w/o muffler, South Bend, Steering brace, aFe, 2 lo kit, Isspro Boost, FP, and EGT on pillar, Westach Trans/Diff temp gauge in dash pod, Raptor 100 w/ 1/2" line, Pac Brake, Rancho 9000, 285's
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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 12:24 PM
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I just try to keep as much heat inside the manifold/turbine housings as I can, to the point where a bit more will over whelm that poor 30 year old frame & braking system, well maintained though they are.

Heavy stainless diesel exhaust manifold + Levi's manifold wrap on mine.

No performance increase with the SD manifold, but it does radiate less heat than the stocker/cast iron units.

R12 in the summer, Webasto in the winter; cassette tapes & SAE-20078 all year.
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 03:13 PM
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I believe forcing air into the turbo will see gains in the form of volumetric efficiency. The engine will not have to work as hard to breathe. The cold air nature of a ram system might benefit my p24v more than a vp truck as cold iat has an injection timing effect. I don't understand everything (much at all) that goes on in the computer control of a vp44 motor. That's why I ppump my trucks for simplicity. A tractor motor (p24v) will benefit from cold air. Katoom is right that debris has to be managed with the filter. I think a ram might help efficiency. I plan to experiment.
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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 05:39 PM
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You cant "ram" the air into a turbo. The volume of air ingested at any given time at the turbo inlet is far beyond any pressures you could create with an air scoop. You'd have to be driving at speeds well above 150 mph to affect anything...and at that it would be negligible. Turbos only pull in the amount of air in relation to the volumetric pressures of hot air exiting the exhaust based on load. At no time is the engine working to breath otherwise there would be no boost. Boost is simply the amount of pressure always sitting in the intake system waiting to be ingested by the cylinders. A naturally aspirated engine in turn requires ambient pressures, velocity, and scavenging in order to work efficiently and can more easily benefit from a ram air affect.

'01 2500 Sport 4x4 5spd w/Fastcoolers, Mag-Hytec, EZ, RV275's, 4" w/o muffler, South Bend, Steering brace, aFe, 2 lo kit, Isspro Boost, FP, and EGT on pillar, Westach Trans/Diff temp gauge in dash pod, Raptor 100 w/ 1/2" line, Pac Brake, Rancho 9000, 285's
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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 07:11 PM
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A compound turbo is a ram air for a turbo. I'm suggesting that the increase in pressure on one side of the compressor has an effect on the other side.
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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 07:19 PM
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A good example is when your air filter starts to get plugged, your max boost gets lowered dramatically. Delta p
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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctmaybury View Post
A compound turbo is a ram air for a turbo. I'm suggesting that the increase in pressure on one side of the compressor has an effect on the other side.
I understand exactly what you mean...but a ram air system is not going to work because of what I was trying to explain. Thats not me telling you not to try it either...but me telling you that you'll see no gain.

Also, thats not technically how a compound system works. Yes, the larger first turbo charges the second smaller turbo multiplying the volume. But the smaller turbo exhaust also drives the exhaust side of the larger turbo which supply's the smaller second turbo with air. Thats where the compounding comes from...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ctmaybury View Post
A good example is when your air filter starts to get plugged, your max boost gets lowered dramatically. Delta p
Have you ever seen an air filter on a turbo at WOT? The air filter is ALWAYS a restriction on a charged engine due to the drastic volume efficiency of the turbo/blower. So yes you're correct, but for an air filter to reduce boost its seriously plugged up and running the risk of being ingested.

'01 2500 Sport 4x4 5spd w/Fastcoolers, Mag-Hytec, EZ, RV275's, 4" w/o muffler, South Bend, Steering brace, aFe, 2 lo kit, Isspro Boost, FP, and EGT on pillar, Westach Trans/Diff temp gauge in dash pod, Raptor 100 w/ 1/2" line, Pac Brake, Rancho 9000, 285's
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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 10:47 AM
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I live and work on dirt roads. My filters get seriously plugged all the time. I keep a clean one ready to go. I was thinking about going to a paper element bc the oiled cloth filters get so gummed up.
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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 01:31 PM
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There was a member (cant remember name) who frequently drove on dusty Idaho back roads and used BHAF. Changed them out regularly too. I guess it all depends on driving conditions...

'01 2500 Sport 4x4 5spd w/Fastcoolers, Mag-Hytec, EZ, RV275's, 4" w/o muffler, South Bend, Steering brace, aFe, 2 lo kit, Isspro Boost, FP, and EGT on pillar, Westach Trans/Diff temp gauge in dash pod, Raptor 100 w/ 1/2" line, Pac Brake, Rancho 9000, 285's
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