High output ALTERNATOR - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-28-2019, 02:23 AM Thread Starter
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High output ALTERNATOR

Im looking for high output ALTERNATOR and want to hear your guys thoughts.

My converter started searching at roughly 1300-1400 rps any gear so I installed the bd noise isolator and it fixed the problem. But I was informed this is not a good fix being the ECM is still in danger of damage. Also I plan on installing a system in the truck and have a good amount of light pods and light bars so I figured I might as well get a very good alternator that can supply the demand of power. I've seen the mean green but 400$ seems excessive, maybe I'm being cheap. Either way I need to find a good alternative to the stock I have now. What do you recommend? I also plan on replacing the wires to and from alternator and batts.

Thanks you in advance to who ever can help!

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 11:12 PM
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Some like Nations for HO. Several others available. Bosch factory is OK. N. Denso and Napa are junk because of lots of AC issues like yours..

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 11:20 PM
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I had the same issue with my 99. I did the BD noise isolator, worked for a while then it came back. Isolated the wires in the harness and wrapped them in foil, didnt work. Swapped out the alternator, worked for a while then it came back. What did it for me and lasted the longest was got rid of the A/Z batteries and installed a pair of Deka batteries.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-31-2019, 01:02 AM
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I run a mean green & like it. 220amp.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-31-2019, 06:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lake huron cummins View Post
I had the same issue with my 99. I did the BD noise isolator, worked for a while then it came back. Isolated the wires in the harness and wrapped them in foil, didnt work. Swapped out the alternator, worked for a while then it came back. What did it for me and lasted the longest was got rid of the A/Z batteries and installed a pair of Deka batteries.
I replaced both batts 4 years ago with Optima red tops. For the price they should still be good

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 12:06 AM
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rebuilderinabox used to have kits for not much.

2000 LWB, Quad Cab, 4x4, NV4500, AirDog, Gauges, Thuren Track Bar, Lost crappy AGR and A1-Cardone steering boxes. RedHead is the best so far but truck has stopped returning to center. Hopefully, I'll get to it soon.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post
rebuilderinabox used to have kits for not much.
I dont think they can offer me the quality and power I'm looking for. They say there "upgrades kits are recommended for stereo system 1500 watts and under".....

The system I am installing uses a 2400w amp and plus I have 6 light pods, 1 52 inch light bar and a 32 inch light bar....

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 01:01 PM
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Unless something has been offered out there I'm unaware of...the only high output alternator which doesnt require a new offsize serpentine belt is Nations. They have many output sizes but their 180 amp uses stock size pulley, 12 diodes instead of 6, and hairpin windings. I cant remember the price when I bought mine but it was surprisingly reasonable when compared to others. Works far better than the OEM alternator did, and my OEM alternator was producing adequate DC voltage but was getting older and I didnt like the rising AC voltage levels.

Also, its important to understand that most high output alternators achieve the higher voltage by spinning the rotor faster, which is why they use smaller pulleys. Then they run much hotter which requires better airflow too. Then anything over 180 amps and you need to replace the alternator lead wire to the PCM because the factory one is too small.

Odds are you dont need an alternator as large are you're thinking.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-09-2020, 12:54 PM
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I installed the Nations 180 amp alternator back in early 2017. This past winter, it took a crap on me. I got a factory 160 amp alt for a 5.7 hemi, outta 2nd gen Dango, Ram might be the same. This alt is Denso based, 12 diode, hairpin windings just like the Nations. Bolt in, half the cost, charges 14V+, just swap the pulley, since the Dango has one less rib. Can start the truck in single digits without plugging in. 20 less amps isn't big deal for me, but maybe for you with all the accessories.

Edit: Found the post.
https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...2422026?page=1
It's actually for a 01-03 Dango 5.9L. But still it's probly the cheapest most robust alt for these trucks, and near bolt-in (pulley swap).

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-09-2020, 08:51 PM
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Dodge used to have an HO one for the Ambulance package or maybe snow plow package at like 180 or 220 amp. Maybe even a Dual setup. Google and Google images is your friend.
Maybe even something off a 6.7.

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2020, 02:11 PM
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Is it not true that anything on the pickup is only gunna use what it needs to run? Why run a 220 amp alternator when you don’t need it?? I’ve never had an issue ever with a stock alternator on my pickup. For example if anything on a pickup drew 100 or 200 amps there would not be a wire left on that pickup...it would be melted and burnt! It’s the same with big cca batteries is all superfluous and pointless...
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2020, 02:32 PM
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Install a winch/snowplow and report back.

Short tripping in winter can only add to the equation.

Matched cabling/fusible circuits are key for any starting/charging system, btw.

Quote:
Originally Posted by seangates View Post
Is it not true that anything on the pickup is only gunna use what it needs to run? Why run a 220 amp alternator when you don’t need it?? I’ve never had an issue ever with a stock alternator on my pickup. For example if anything on a pickup drew 100 or 200 amps there would not be a wire left on that pickup...it would be melted and burnt! It’s the same with big cca batteries is all superfluous and pointless...

R12 in the summer, Webasto in the winter; cassette tapes & SAE-20078 all year.
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