Stance/width change on Locking Hub Conversion - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Question Stance/width change on Locking Hub Conversion

I'm specifically looking at Spyntec locking hubs ('94-98) for my '98.5 2500 4x4 dana 60 front. Can anyone comment on whether this Spyntec widens the wheel stance (and how much)? (If you're running other locking kits, feel free to comment on those, too, as I may still go with another brand).

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019, 09:26 PM
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I have the Yukon kit on mine, and it did not widen the stance at all. However the hubs themselves do stick out a good ways through the wheel. I highly doubt any of the kits out there actually widen the track width of the vehicle, as this would cause all sorts of issues having the front track wider than the rear track.

2002 6 SPEED QCSB 4x4
- 2005 GMC 2500HD Duramax -
- 2018 Nash 26N TT -
- 1968 Thunderbird 429 Landau -

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanb02 View Post
I have the Yukon kit on mine, and it did not widen the stance at all. However the hubs themselves do stick out a good ways through the wheel. I highly doubt any of the kits out there actually widen the track width of the vehicle, as this would cause all sorts of issues having the front track wider than the rear track.
Thanks for sharing your experience with the Yukon.

I had a guy who did a Yukon kit on a 1/2 ton say his wheels sit 3/4 inch wider (but that wouldn't be a Dana 60). I've looked into a swap from a '95-97 F350 (for bigger brakes + locking hubs) and those push the wheel out a bit too. I don't think there is any issue with the bolt on kits. The Ford swap can cause alignment issues until adjusted since it includes a knuckle swap.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019, 10:10 PM
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One other thing to add here, there CAN'T be any difference for these types of kits for these particular trucks, as they use factory brake rotors and caliper brackets. If the track was changed due to hub placement, the caliper brackets would have to be different to compensate.

2002 6 SPEED QCSB 4x4
- 2005 GMC 2500HD Duramax -
- 2018 Nash 26N TT -
- 1968 Thunderbird 429 Landau -

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-08-2019, 01:51 AM
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What are you expecting to gain from the change over? I used to want them too, like the old days. But with CAD there is no real benefit worth 1500 to 3000 for the cost.

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-08-2019, 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by bigfish95971 View Post
What are you expecting to gain from the change over? I used to want them too, like the old days. But with CAD there is no real benefit worth 1500 to 3000 for the cost.
I'm sure that your response was directed to the OP, however as a guy that has had them for 8+ years I will interject my personal opinion.

You are absolutely correct that the CAD unit the factory put in place likely makes it cost prohibitive to an extent as the front driveshaft isn't actually turning anymore.

However, it eliminates wear on the front axle U-Joints when they are not engaged, and the front differential is no longer spinning either. Also the biggest thing in my mind comes from utilizing tapered bearings rather than the uni-bearing design the modern front hub assemblies have.

The kits utilize common bearings that will be easily found in most auto parts stores on the shelf should one fail, and with the ability to actually maintain the bearings actual failure is very unlikely unless neglected. Likelihood of losing a wheel with a tapered bearing design is rare in comparison to a sealed unit where there isn't always warning signs before it lets go. Another real world gain is the ability to eliminate the problematic CAD unit with a solid axle shaft on that side.

That I have not actually done yet, but would like to as vacuum problems are commonplace as these trucks get older, and a broken line somewhere suddenly means you don't have 4x4 anymore. Other option would be the posi track conversion to a manual cable that shifts the collar.

With all that being said, @bigfish95971 at 600 whatever thousand miles on your truck I would imagine keeping it mostly stock is doing it right. Problem for me is taller wider tires that will prematurely kill stock wheel bearings.

2002 6 SPEED QCSB 4x4
- 2005 GMC 2500HD Duramax -
- 2018 Nash 26N TT -
- 1968 Thunderbird 429 Landau -

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-08-2019, 11:01 PM
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I needed new hubs and bearings. That made the change not as severe from a dollar point of view. I went with EMS and they have been fine but I don't beat on my truck - although it has been beat on.

2000 LWB, Quad Cab, 4x4, NV4500, AirDog, Gauges, Thuren Track Bar, Lost crappy AGR and A1-Cardone steering boxes. RedHead is the best so far but truck has stopped returning to center. Hopefully, I'll get to it soon.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-09-2019, 03:21 AM
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For Me, I have only had to do one driver side axle joint, 2 or 3 hub assemblies and no cad issues, several rotors, but that is on me. Always used cheaper Summit or Pepboys units, not 400 dollar Timken's. No they can't come apart and fall off. There may be cheaper now in the 1500-2000 range, but it used to be 3 grand. I agree with most of your benefits but not dollar wise worth it. It is good everybody has choices though, always.
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99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-09-2019, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfish95971 View Post
What are you expecting to gain from the change over? I used to want them too, like the old days. But with CAD there is no real benefit worth 1500 to 3000 for the cost.
My answer is similar to the one above. I think there are benefits, which I'll list below, but it is obviously very subjective as to whether those benefits are 'worth' the cost. The Spyntec kit is $1550, the low end of your range above.

Benefits for a locking kit:
  1. Better bearings, replaceable and serviceable bearings
  2. Improved U-joint and bearing wear
  3. Steering ease/wear (less rotational mass in steering)
  4. MPG (<2 mpg increase with 150 lbs less rotational mass)
  5. 2wd-lo now available (good for backing trailers similar situations for high torque/low speed w/o 4x4)

With a '95-97 F350 knuckle-out swap, one additional benefit to the above list is dual-piston calipers. With hard work sourcing parts, I've seen this swap done for $700, but these used Dana 60s are often priced closer to $800-1k.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-11-2019, 06:42 PM
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I did mine with ford 60 stubs, dana50 spindles/hubs. My truck is a dually so I used arrowcraft spacers to replace oem that wouldn't clear the hub. If I remember correctly the arrowcraft added 1/2" over the oem. Hardly noticeable.

The mpg increase is a joke. Best thing about it is 2lo. And when I lock my hubs I know it's in 4x4.

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