What's the easy way to deal with clutch switch - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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What's the easy way to deal with clutch switch

00 Ram 200,000 mi and the starter lock out switch on the clutch pedal is intermittently not closing. I can turn the key to start and hit the clutch pedal a couple (or few) times and it usually cranks. The FSM says the switch is integrated with the pedal and dowsn't give service information.

I note that old cars never had a clutch switch and everyone knew to push the clutch in or have the trans in neutral. Common sense isn't so common now.

What's the easy way to access the switch to either replace or bypass the switch.

The starter has new contacts so I know that's not the problem.


2000 LWB, Quad Cab, 4x4, NV4500, AirDog, Gauges, Thuren Track Bar, Lost crappy AGR and A1-Cardone steering boxes. RedHead is the best so far but truck has stopped returning to center. Hopefully, I'll get to it soon.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 03:39 PM
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Be sure your pressing the clutch all the way to the floor. Mine wont start if the pedal is even 1/4 off the floor. Works every time if its on the floorboard. Just something to keep in mind


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Massuh_Nate View Post
Be sure your pressing the clutch all the way to the floor. Mine wont start if the pedal is even 1/4 off the floor. Works every time if its on the floorboard. Just something to keep in mind


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Pedal is on the floor. I hold the key to start position and pump the clutch hitting the bottom each time until engine cranks. Next suggestion?

Fun fact in case anyone needs it: small trip wire to the solenoid can be accessed via the connector near the battery & fuse box on the driver side. Connect this to the positive battery post and solenoid closes cranking the engine.

Be sure that the trans is in netral and the key is in the run position if you want the engine to start.

2000 LWB, Quad Cab, 4x4, NV4500, AirDog, Gauges, Thuren Track Bar, Lost crappy AGR and A1-Cardone steering boxes. RedHead is the best so far but truck has stopped returning to center. Hopefully, I'll get to it soon.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 10:15 PM
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Find it, check it out for damage or adjustment and go from there.

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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My clutch master is leaking and the switch may be missing some parts. I'll remove for closer inspection once parts arrive.

For the next person:

The proper name for the clutch lock out switch is "clutch pedal position switch". The switch can be removed this way:

There are a couple of plastic washers that are necessary for the switch to push against. I didn't note the time but Mike explains some relevant info in this vid.

You should have all of the needed information after watching the above 2 vids. The only other cranking issue seemingly related to the clutch might be caused by starter solenoid contacts that are on the way out. There is plenty of info available to handle the starter.

2000 LWB, Quad Cab, 4x4, NV4500, AirDog, Gauges, Thuren Track Bar, Lost crappy AGR and A1-Cardone steering boxes. RedHead is the best so far but truck has stopped returning to center. Hopefully, I'll get to it soon.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 12:32 AM
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They're easy to check and/or replace. But...the small amount of space you'll have to work in can prove difficult for the larger fella's.

'01 2500 Sport 4x4 5spd w/Fastcoolers, Mag-Hytec, EZ, RV275's, 4" w/o muffler, South Bend, Steering brace, aFe, 2 lo kit, Isspro Boost, FP, and EGT on pillar, Westach Trans/Diff temp gauge in dash pod, Raptor 100 w/ 1/2" line, Pac Brake, Rancho 9000, 285's
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