How difficult to convert SRW to DRW? - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 02:48 AM Thread Starter
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How difficult to convert SRW to DRW?

Hello everyone,

I recently purchased a pretty nice 2001 SRW thinking it would be enough for towing my 20' cargo trailer. As my luck usually goes after getting the 3/4 ton I found and purchased a fantastic deal on a 48' enclosed gooseneck trailer. Now I am thinking I need a dually.

Should I just sell my 2500 and look for a 3500?....or can I change out the rear axle??

Thanks,
Phil


2007 Dodge / 3500 DRW / 5.9 Cummins / auto trans / 4 x 4 / Silver / 150,000 miles / ? rearend / 8' bed / 4 door crew cab
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 04:25 AM
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You can
1)literally swap the complete axle to gain carrying capacity, as the drw axle is a dana 80 with larger bearing, and axle
2)convert your srw to drw with adapters, does not increase axle capacity though
2nd gen srw is a Dana80 hybrid.
It is basically a 80housing, with 70axles and bearings

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 05:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mykeb View Post
You can
1)literally swap the complete axle to gain carrying capacity, as the drw axle is a dana 80 with larger bearing, and axle
2)convert your srw to drw with adapters, does not increase axle capacity though
2nd gen srw is a Dana80 hybrid.
It is basically a 80housing, with 70axles and bearings
These are pretty much your only 2 options. If I were going to do it myself I would only do option 1. The drw axle is about 2 inches wider on each side than the srw axle to allow space for the inner tires. I would be leary about putting a bunch of weight on 2 inch aluminum adapters on a srw axle.

02 2500 4X4, reg cab shorty, 3.55, Smarty/TST, 75 over 62, 150 inj, 5" exh, 12" lift on 20" 34's, Goerend billet triple disc auto, Yukon hub/bearing kit
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys....

yea I think I like the sound of changing the entire axle to get the extra weight carrying capacity. Does that rearend gear change mess up the trans shifting? Would I be forced to change the bed or can I just add the additional fenders to cover the extra width of tire?

2007 Dodge / 3500 DRW / 5.9 Cummins / auto trans / 4 x 4 / Silver / 150,000 miles / ? rearend / 8' bed / 4 door crew cab
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 04:54 PM
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OK so I am going to be the one this time

however you do it it will not be legal if something happens.

Do you actually need more axle for pin weight or do you want dually for stability ??

weight do the axle swap

stability change rims and tires to a dually set up

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironpony View Post

however you do it it will not be legal if something happens.
This is a consideration as well. I currently have this problem because I cut 2 feet out of my 2500 reg cab longed so it's now a reg cab shortbed diesel...which dodge does not make.

Every year when I get it inspected they mistakenly call it a 1500 but no problem getting tags. I have also already filed an insurance claim with it like that and they didn't say anything about it and wrote me a check. But we're pretty laid back in TX.

To OP's questions. You can buy a dually bed which may be hard to find, you can buy the fenders and afix them to your bed, or you can sell your bed and buy a flatbed for a dually. There are only 2 gear ratios...3.55 or 4.10. Either one will work but probably better off with 4.10 if you are towing heavier. I'm assuming you don't have a 4x4, otherwise you need to match the front ratio.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 05:41 PM
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i just did this swap on a 98 2nd gen, you will need the wheel bearings from a 3500 in the front in order for the adapter to fit correctly, you also need the ubolt plates for the dana 80 axle because to the naked eye they look the same as the 70 but the arch cut out of them is different. its a PITA needing the different wheel bearings, the difference is only Millimeters but the adapter won't press over the center hub of a 3/4 ton hub assembly

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mykeb View Post
You can
1)literally swap the complete axle to gain carrying capacity, as the drw axle is a dana 80 with larger bearing, and axle
2)convert your srw to drw with adapters, does not increase axle capacity though
2nd gen srw is a Dana80 hybrid.
It is basically a 80housing, with 70axles and bearings

not all of the 2nd gen axles are 80 hybrids, i've found most 3/4 ton trucks that have limited slip rears turn out to be a dana 60 carrier with smaller axles than the non limited slips which usually are the bigger carrier and axles with bigger ring gear, which are still smaller than the dana 80 axle assembly. according to chrysler all manual transmission 2500 series trucks had the 80 in them, while the rest of 2500's had the smaller 70 case, and if limited slip had the same dana 60 size ring and pinion and carrier like is found in the front axle.

1998 P pump 24valve s364/s475sxe compounds colt big stick nv4500 pacbrake
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 11:23 PM
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Thinking that just putting in a dual axle would change the gear ratio tels me that this operation is more than you should start.
Dana 70, 80, and dually80 all have limited slit(called anti-spin) available Rear Dana 60 was not in 25 or 3500 except maybe V-8 Gas 2500.
It would definitely be a lot cheaper and easier to sell it and buy a 3500 if you need one.
Do you need one?
48ft is pretty long for a pickup. What is the pin weight and empty weight and GVWR?
Electric brakes or Air?
Don't know about TX but Ca is 40 ft limit, other states may be 45 ft.

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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Ok....what I am hearing is that I am probably money, time, and headaches ahead to just go ahead and sell or trade my truck for a factory made dually. My truck is actually a 4x4 so then I am stuck with the 3:55 rearend and I think I would prefer the 4:10 for towing.

The only reason I hate to get rid of the truck is because it seems like such a nice keeper....not perfect and could use a little TLC but absolutely rust free so I was hoping the make it my last truck.

Thanks for the honest feedback guys!

2007 Dodge / 3500 DRW / 5.9 Cummins / auto trans / 4 x 4 / Silver / 150,000 miles / ? rearend / 8' bed / 4 door crew cab
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfish95971 View Post
Thinking that just putting in a dual axle would change the gear ratio tels me that this operation is more than you should start.
Dana 70, 80, and dually80 all have limited slit(called anti-spin) available Rear Dana 60 was not in 25 or 3500 except maybe V-8 Gas 2500.
It would definitely be a lot cheaper and easier to sell it and buy a 3500 if you need one.
Do you need one?
48ft is pretty long for a pickup. What is the pin weight and empty weight and GVWR?
Electric brakes or Air?
Don't know about TX but Ca is 40 ft limit, other states may be 45 ft.

Thanks bigfish....the trailer is 21k GVWR and 8k pounds empty. I plan to make a woodworking shop out of it so not putting much more weight in it (maybe 4-5k pounds of tools...going to have a lot of empty space in it to work). Don't plan to move the trailer around much either but do want to have the capacity to do so.

My last 48' trailer was identical to this newer one and I always had a friend with a Dodge dually move it for me. It was only 18k GVWR but I had it fuller than I plan for this new one to be. I did have the first one weighed once and it came in at 17,800

Thank again everyone

2007 Dodge / 3500 DRW / 5.9 Cummins / auto trans / 4 x 4 / Silver / 150,000 miles / ? rearend / 8' bed / 4 door crew cab
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 06:33 PM
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Converting to a dually is easy. If your truck is 2wd, all you really need is a disc Dana 80 dually rear axle and the front hub adapters. The front gawr is the same between the 3/4tons and 1tons. The rear springs are a tad bit beefier than the 3/4 ton but they will bolt right up. If your truck is a manual it will already have a Dana 80 pumpkin so your driveshaft will not need to be shortened the 2 inches iirc. You're not towing for commercial needs and it seems as if you might only hit 17k gcwr which is fine. I did a Dana 70 srw to Dana 80/70 srw on my 98 so I essentially did all this already. Let me know more about your truck and I'll tell you what you can or cant yee and what you'll need. Auto or manual, 2wd, 4wd, current axle ratio,

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