Ball joint replacement 2wd - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Ball joint replacement 2wd

Need ball joints all around on my 01 Dodge ram 3500 2wd Cummins ......I realize all the ball joints on the 2wd model are riveted to the control arms so, instead of trying to drill out the ball joints I'm thinking about buying the the lower and upper control arm assembly's .....is this the better way to go? ...can't imagine trying to drill those rivets out!!....any write ups on a full control arm removal and installation?...........Thanks, Scippy


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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 08:40 PM
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full removal is more involved of course and will require an alignment...a grinder and air hammer with chisel mae short work of those rivets.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 02:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormin08 View Post
full removal is more involved of course and will require an alignment...a grinder and air hammer with chisel mae short work of those rivets.
Seems like alot of work to grind and then chisel 16 rivets out!.......I went with the Moog full control arm assembly with ball joints!

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 10:41 AM
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When I did my ball joints, I replaced the complete upper control arms and replaced the lower ball joints. The reason I didn't buy the lower control arms is that they were at least twice as expensive as the uppers. It took a while to grind the rivets on the lower ball joints, but it was not too bad. I also replaced tie rod ends, shocks, and coil springs.

2001 Dodge 2500. 221k, 2wd qclb, allegedly built auto, 57mm Super B/s475, 6x.011 pdd injectors, Arp head studs, Edge JwA+CS, Fass 220, Hamilton pushrods, Crower 110#, .093 crossover tubes.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=67baja;29024821]When I did my ball joints, I replaced the complete upper control arms

How difficult was the change out?.......any precautionary points to be advised to?

2001 Dodge Ram 3500 DRW - 4" Turbo back exhaust - DDRP Fass - Edge EZ - Fuel pres. Trans temp & EGT gauges - 4:10 rear........."TCB"
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 06:46 PM
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Pretty straight forward.

Of the top of my head:

Jack up the front of truck. Put it on jack stands. Remove front wheel, brake rotor, and caliper bracket. Remove front shock. Put floor jack under lower control arm and jack it up enough to lift that corner of truck in order to keep spring compressed. Loosen ball joint nuts Use ball joint removal tool to break upper bj loose from spindle. After spindle is free from uca, SLOWLY lower jack to allow coil spring to extend -- this is the most dangerous part of the job. There is a LOT of energy stored in that compressed spring (enough to seriously injure or kill you).

Once the spring is loose and the lca is hanging down, remove spindle from lower ball joint. Iirc, there are only 2 bolt holding uca shaft to the frame. Remove uca and lca and install new ones. Install coil spring into lca loosely and install spindle onto lower bj. Jack up lca while aligning spring into upper spring bucket. Continue jacking until spring is compressed enough to get upper bj attached to spindle. Once ball joint nuts are tight, you can slowly lower jack again. reinstall brake rotor and caliper, wheel, etc.


That is basically how I did it, and I am sure I left some steps out in the above guide. USE A MANUAL or other source of instruction other than me. Doing this wrong will hurt you!!!

If you were only replacing bjs, you still have to do all the above work but you have to grind rivets and replace bjs instead of control arms.

It took me about half a day to replace my front end components.

2001 Dodge 2500. 221k, 2wd qclb, allegedly built auto, 57mm Super B/s475, 6x.011 pdd injectors, Arp head studs, Edge JwA+CS, Fass 220, Hamilton pushrods, Crower 110#, .093 crossover tubes.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 07:08 PM
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does anyone have pictures of how to grind out the rivets, mine have either already been replaced or are hidden. I replaced ball joints on a 99 f250 4wd, not afraid of it, just have a few physical issues that keep me from getting a real good look at it.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=67baja;29025227]Pretty straight forward.

Of the top of my head:

Jack up the front of truck. Put it on jack stands. Remove front wheel, brake rotor, and caliper bracket. Remove front shock. Put floor jack under lower control arm and jack it up enough to lift that corner of truck in order to keep spring compressed. Loosen ball joint nuts Use ball joint removal tool to break upper bj loose from spindle. After spindle is free from uca, SLOWLY lower jack to allow coil spring to extend -- this is the most dangerous part of the job. There is a LOT of energy stored in that compressed spring (enough to seriously injure or kill you).

Once the spring is loose and the lca is hanging down, remove spindle from lower ball joint. Iirc, there are only 2 bolt holding uca shaft to the frame. Remove uca and lca and install new ones. Install coil spring into lca loosely and install spindle onto lower bj. Jack up lca while aligning spring into upper spring bucket. Continue jacking until spring is compressed enough to get upper bj attached to spindle. Once ball joint nuts are tight, you can slowly lower jack again. reinstall brake rotor and caliper, wheel, etc.


That is basically how I did it, and I am sure I left some steps out in the above guide. USE A MANUAL or other source of instruction other than me. Doing this wrong will hurt you!!!

If you were only replacing bjs, you still have to do all the above work but you have to grind rivets and replace bjs instead of control arms.

It took me about half a day to replace my front end components.[/QUOTE

Very informative !!....Thanks 67baja

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 08:09 AM
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the best way to grind a rivet, is to do a cross at the top side...then chisel each corner section off. the a drift pin to drive it out.

this is a drill out method...
https://jalopnik.com/heres-how-to-re...1820377993/amp

grind and punch method....
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...d.php?t=278895

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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So I've decided to do the whole front end over.........I've purchased Moog upper & lower control arm assemblies w/ball joints attached, inner & outer tie rod ends.
2 adjusting sleeves .......my springs where replaced 10k ago as well as the shocks........sway bar was replaced by me 3k ago as well as the ends, bought 2 new
upper spring insulators as well as new bump stops.........what I'm I forgetting?

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-19-2019, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scippy View Post
So I've decided to do the whole front end over.........I've purchased Moog upper & lower control arm assemblies w/ball joints attached, inner & outer tie rod ends.

2 adjusting sleeves .......my springs where replaced 10k ago as well as the shocks........sway bar was replaced by me 3k ago as well as the ends, bought 2 new

upper spring insulators as well as new bump stops.........what I'm I forgetting?


How did the front end go? Did you tongue the bushing nuts down on the upper control arms?


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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-20-2019, 02:58 AM Thread Starter
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I bought every part and then had r & h springs do all the work....the whole front end is replaced and feels great to drive!
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