I have neglected my front end-or dodge has neglected me
Answer is the same -
What is the very best tie rod set up for standard ride height one ton dually?
I have read and reread.
I even at one point bought a ream for a newer generation assembly.
SO which one ?
and best place to purchase?
thanx a bunch
Key notes....
Once you go splines balljoints, you cannot go back . They are just a touch larger.
Also...Moog problem solved is slightly smaller than Napas.
Will also add....
When greasing your balljoints
1) jack wheel up, taking weight off it
2) pump new grease in did, all.the old grease comes out. Yes...greasable balljoints are built with a hole for the specific purpose of expelling the old grease
3) go nonGreasable balljoints if you have the option. They are sealed better. Should last longer
I've put 300k miles on my truck. Bought it with 100k, at 400k now.
I've been replacing balljoints, steering joints about every 2yrs max.
This last time, after a fair bit of searching trying to figure out why I replace so often, is when I found I've been getting them wrong this whole time.
I dont forsee ballhoints, or steering joint replacement no where near as often now.
Oh..and I've been using Moog, or Napa the whole time.
I didn't recommend a brand, since now...I honestly believe their longevity is more determined by proper maintenance than anything else.
Which..is why I will use nonGreasable from here in out when that is an option.
My truck...a shop had installed splined Napa balljoints , and now I'm forced to continue with splined Napa... which also forces me to use Greasable balljoints.
Since the whole is now slightly larger, and the other brand slide halfway in by hand before they even start to catch.
I know there is a big difference between the "Y" and the "T" style tie rod configurations.
It took me a while, but I think I got the parts figured out, thanx
You should already have the T style, being as your truck is a 98. I went with moog on mine, doubt its the best but at less than $300 its good enough and fairy simple to replace when the time comes again.
couple issues with a pre 2000 truck....knuckle tapers for the tre are slightly different and need to be reamed. the overall width from knuckle to knuckle is a tad narrow. it may require ttimming the crossover or draglink or both...be careful here, if a part ever breaks and you cannot modify the available, you may be stranded.
to date, none of the shelf parts store parts have been great.
the mopar is junk, moog is hit or miss and in my case, the napa pro chassis has been ok. aside from aftermarket expensive ends and tube, your options are limited.
the junk foreign parts have no quality and price is going up.
Afterburn549, just to save you some embarrassment when talking about this with your buddies down the road. T style and Y style are not the tie rods themselves. But how the steering system is linked up.
So..you would say..." I converted my truck from the old Y style steering, to the T style steering. And I used Moog tie rods" ...
or XRF, or whatever brand you choose.
Will make more sense once you install it.
The steering system literally forms a Y, or T, in how it links the wheels together.
Embarrassment? LOL
No problem.
I do understand the mechanical operations of it.
At 66 years old I think I have left my feelings about embarrassment further back then I can remember.
The nomenclature may be slightly skewed, close enough for hand grenades i would think.
Thanx
Spicer ball joints are available for not much. Tie rods don't really matter because they are so easy to change compared to everything else. Smack the knuckle with the BFH and tie rods come out - no muss....
Once installed, the ball joints should loosen to the point of allowing the knuckle to rotate very easily. My old Moogs were horribly tight and I put up with it because new parts are expected to work correctly.
I now test every part before it's installed. This goes for electric motors, alternators everything. Test sections of your steering when you have the chance because something is disconnected and you can determine whether a given section is turning freely without slop.
NAPA tells me they can sell "T" style guaranteed as long as I own the truck.
This seems like the right road as they have replaced about 6 calipers so far (salt)
Along with several other parts and a wiper motor.
I have a lot of projects and many things to do,, and working on this POS dodge
is rather boorish.
It is too bad so sad Dodge made this so crappy.
AT 270K miles the ONLY thing that has not been fixed repaired is the two rear ends.
However every brand of these small one tons come with a lot of congenital birth defects
i have the napa version of the 08.5 up...it was called the pro chassis line. looks like the mevotech line.
it is a metal on metal ball design with grease zerks and blue boots. i would say i have close to 40k with it and run a narrow 34" tire on horrible roads.
build your own... i finished my own setup and the truck has never driven so smooth - it feels like a 2017 dump truck, perfectly straight track and absolutely no bump steer what so ever. some 1 ton tre's, johnny joints, hieme joints, and .385 walled DOM with a bit of welding. (band saw helps too). i wish i could have gone back a few years and stopped myself buying all those 'upgrade' kits for 800.00+ and just spend a couple hundred at the local steel yard instead.
i recommend dynatrac ball joints and timkin wheel bearings. IF you want to upgrade things further you can swap out for kingpin design off some ford axles for your knuckles instead.
As for me, I ended up buying NAPA "T" rod set for the newer dodges as they guarantee it the life of the vehicle.
Over time They have replaced at least 6 calipers now and some other stuff.
To me, that is worth something.
As for timkins that is the way to go either with Ford or aftermarket hubs .
This inboard shet is just that.
one other item to check....depth of TRE into the knuckle usually with a stock wheel means trimming the TRE stud as the overall length rubs a stock wheel.
I might have lucked out as I have 17 inch wheels on.
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