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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 12:26 AM
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NO luke's link. That is junk. Metal to metal joints are not appropriate for track bars. They need at least one rubber joint for shock absorption when diff is moving up and down.


99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 03:13 AM
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i have used luks links. they DO work for about a month. after that they wear, they split along the very hard corners they machine into the housings, and they are BULKY.

if you are going to go the custom route - build your self a new set of bars using 1 ton TRE's. a bit of DOM tubing, 4 bungs, and some TRE's and your set. its not hard to do and there are DIY kits out there for as little as 350. i went this route and it turned out great.

cheap and WAY stronger than luks links: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html

99 QC,LB. full billet trans, fass 150, iquad, 37", 407Lbs grill guard, DAP VP44, Thuren coils, Thuren king shocks, DoR control arms and trackbar, 16K lbs winch, retro solutions HID. Redhead gear box, compound turbo, DAP 125's, stroker W/HO pistons, 4.10/Elocker
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 09:42 AM
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How would those work, the bar needs to be bent at the ends. Plus, how is that an upgrade from one manufacturers 1 ton TRE to another with the same rating? If you're going to go that route get some 2.5 ton TRE's at least.

03 Dodge SHO CCLB Dually Carli/Thuren Argon filled Shocks, radius arms, SRW 4 link Conversion, 17"methods, 42" Goodyear MTR Kevlar Tires / 6 in a row ready to tow!
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfish95971 View Post
NO luke's link. That is junk. Metal to metal joints are not appropriate for track bars. They need at least one rubber joint for shock absorption when diff is moving up and down.
I disagree with that, I made my own Trac bar with giant 3" Uniball ends, and 3/4"bolts (metal on metal) and it's flawless, and will last absolutely forever. The suspension cycles smooth as butter.

03 Dodge SHO CCLB Dually Carli/Thuren Argon filled Shocks, radius arms, SRW 4 link Conversion, 17"methods, 42" Goodyear MTR Kevlar Tires / 6 in a row ready to tow!
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 03:00 PM
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I've had a lukes link and bushing kit on my track bar for 6 years now, have added provided washers to adjust it once a couple years ago.
Have had no issues at all with it.

2000 Ram 2500 24v SLT Laramie 4x4, 47re automatic - 505,000kms 314,000 miles, Superchips programmer, BHAFilter, Magna flow exhaust, Isspro EV2 fuel pres/boost/pyro gauges, Raptor 100/DSV lift pump with 1/2" lines.
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 10:52 PM
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What's the problem with Junk?
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2000 LWB, Quad Cab, 4x4, NV4500, AirDog, Gauges, Thuren Track Bar, Lost crappy AGR and A1-Cardone steering boxes. RedHead is the best so far but truck has stopped returning to center. Hopefully, I'll get to it soon.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 09:27 PM
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i bent the bar a bit on both ends, only needed about 5 degrees. the rest just bolted right in

99 QC,LB. full billet trans, fass 150, iquad, 37", 407Lbs grill guard, DAP VP44, Thuren coils, Thuren king shocks, DoR control arms and trackbar, 16K lbs winch, retro solutions HID. Redhead gear box, compound turbo, DAP 125's, stroker W/HO pistons, 4.10/Elocker
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