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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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LF opinions on price

Hello all,

Looking for advice from people who have more experience purchasing 2nd gen cummins. I am looking at my friends 2001 ram 2500 with the 5.9 24v Cummins, sport model, auto transmission. It has a new transfer case, power brake pump, calipers, master cylinder, wheel cylinders and around 215k miles. condition is good, but definitely not mint. Has a little rust on fenders above wheels and by door panels. As far as we can tell it is not a 53 block. It also has a cold air intake, 5" exhaust, Edge Juice with Attitude chip. He is asking $8500. He lives in Montana. I will have to fly out and drive it back will be about 900 mile drive. I know it's a subjective question, but do you think the price is fair? He is my friend so I know he is being honest, but i'm not sure what the market is like for these vehicles and I know it varies from region to region. So just looking for some input. Thanks in advance!


Last edited by red4e9; 03-29-2019 at 11:37 AM. Reason: adding more info
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 07:45 PM
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The price is not bad in general.. But i would never buy any truck with rust coming through the body anywhere. The last time i did that I was 15 in 1970 and I bought a 1939 Chevy pickup.
There are better trucks around for 8-12k if you are willing to drive like that. I would drive like that for the right truck, not a rusty one unless you have a donor for really good body parts.\
If it needed a new transfer case it was hotrodded too much.

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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First-off thanks for the reply. I Really appreciate it. yea I really wish i could post pictures of it on here so you could asses it better. So any rust is a no go generally in your book? The rust is mainly on the bottom of the tailgate a little and near the the bottom corner of where the doors close on the rocker panel. rest looks ok. Did you have a bad experience with your 1939 Chevy?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 10:50 PM
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Buy the way, welcome, I drove the 39 a year and cut & sold enough wood to buy a 62 GMC and drove it a couple of years and made more cutting wood, The door panels and bed strips were all rusted out. I put it in the ditch during a snow storm, could not see with the vacuum wipers, and bent too many steering parts, so i bought the Jimmy.

A few external rock chips is one thing, any rust from the inside essentially can never be repaired economically without replacement fo body parts.. If you can see some there is 10 times that amount you can't see that will keep getting worse. Just not worth it unless you have an cheap donor truck like a 1500 for 1000 bucks with all good body, and lots of shop time.

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 10:58 PM
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I have a 99 here in CA with 673k mi on it and not a speck of rust except a rock ship or two on the surface only. There are go trucks around for 8-15k with 90 to 200k, even a couple lately at 40-60, but those were real lucky..

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks bigfish i have talked to many body shops and they all echo what you said about rust. i'm just having a tough time deciding with the all the money that my buddy has put into it. replacing the heater core, transfer case, all new brake components. i'm sure there will be more things to fix in the future, but seems like a good starting point. But i think i'm gonna end up passing because of the rust unfortunately and it needs a timing chain gasket.. so you think 8500 is right in the ball park for these trucks though? just for future reference.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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sorry kinda tired, i see you pretty much already answer that. lol
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 12:29 AM
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A little fluid film and the rust will stop progressing. Around here, it’s hard to find anything that’s 10 years old and doesn’t have rust, so we just expect some rust. Body panels like fenders, rockers and cab corners can be easily replaced or repaired. Check to bake sure the bottoms of the doors aren’t rotted out. I think the price is a tad high, aftermarket parts don’t really add value unless they’re serious upgrades, such as an upgrades TC and tranny IMO. A newly replaced injection pump, might also add a little value,

In my case, I looked past the body flaws and looked at the frame, power train, and suspension.

2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 extended cab short box; VP44 IP; Lift pump in tank, No mods except for a 6" lift and steering stabilizer.
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